I ordered the same day I got the PM about the new harnesses being available. Now, I anxiously wait. I may still add an 6000K Bi-Xenon HID kit to them, or Sylvania Silverstars. I'll probably do the fender light/turn signal mod at the same time. Now, if someone could just come out with a bulb for the 2010 fog lights...

 

A mouse with a candle is better than an H13...

 

All of Daniels Sterns comments regarding selective yellow tinting are in regards to the fog lights, and not the driving headlights. When it comes to the headlights as ling as you have a bulb that isn't into the blue spectrum (which starts in the 6100K range). These bulbs are not blue, but more on the yellow spectrum, and would fall under what he calls ideal for a driving light in the 4200-5000 Kelvin range.

I know that someone has mentioned the stock wiring harness not being up to par as well, or not delivering the voltage. Many people have measured this, and when you are not driving, yes the voltage is very low. The computer raises the voltage to the lights at driving speeds, so there is no need for an upgraded harness. Yes you do have to run a 55/60 watt bulb, but watts is only a measure energy usage, and not light output. If a company shrinks the bulb the gasses will burn hotter increasing the lumens output, while using the same wattage of power. If you want higher lumens with this light you could always go with a +40 light. The lights will burn out quicker though because they burn hotter.

Also this lights best part is the beam pattern. I would argue that the beam pattern is the most important aspect of a light because bulbs are cheap and easy to replace.

 

I took DS's quotes that applied to the situation and they're all relevant; blue tint is blue tint, whether on a fog or headlight.

I've never heard that the JK varies its voltage dependent upon speed; I'll have to look into that.

And throttling back voltage certainly will limit the lumen output of any bulb.

Another quote from DS using the 9006 bulb as a reference; he requests that his name not be used as a blunt instrument but there are terribly few others with as much good information to quote:

 

I ordered some today, thank you!

JerryJeff

 

well, one of my fancy new IPF headlights are broken.. chipped by probably a rock on the highway and there is a hole in it.......

sucks. I PM'd dave and he said hes willing to give me a good deal on a replacement..

Seems pretty dumb to make them from glass but I did know that when I ordered mine... Im switching back to stock and probably throwing them in the can.. Im not investing more money into these things if they are going to break on me all the time.


I voted I like them but I want to vote "could be better"

 

Add 3M clear bra tape to the headlights....it has saved my PIAA Fog lights for years...no cracks, no chips....I just had to replace the tape every 2-3 years with all the pitting from the sand and rocks hitting the tape over the winters.

 

also, Im at 56,000 miles and still on my original windshield, so these things chip easier than the windshields on the JK.

 

IPF has been making these for TJ's for about 10 years now and glass is the best reflector. Honestly shit happens and a rock hit your light nothing you or I could do to avoid it from happening I guess better your headlight then your windshield.

I would not blame it on the light though.

David

 

its a little too late for that.....

but thanks for the advice.

The IPF's have less than 1,000 miles on them, I know rocks dont give a crap about mileage but it just seems silly to make these from glass..