Hey there,

I just purchased some lights for my windshield and kc windshield brackets. I'm wondering what the easiest way is to rig them up without voiding my warranty. I was told that as long as I don't break into the factory harness all should be well but I want to make sure that if I use the fuse box or go off the battery that those can't be tied into voiding my warranty. I'm sure there are already threads about this but I searched for a little while with no such luck. Thanks in advance!


ThorJK

 

Here are some pics of how I ran my wires etc...

 

I installed mine just like orangeav. I would recommend running the hot directly to the battery. You will just have to be sure the lights are off because they will not go off with the ignition.....I have not had any problem in this area with mine.

 

I have not wired lights in a vehicle for while and i just installed some back up lights recently. It is easier than you think, I found the hardest part was routing the wires through the firewall and making everything look as clean as possible. I have mine wired right to the battery with a rocker switch and no issues. Everything turned out great. Good luck! this forum is great for help too!!

 

nice job!!

 

Very clean install!

 

Thanks, I think it will be worth the effort in the long-run.

 

I'm about to do this exact same install. I do not want my power connect directly to the battery though. Anyone have a recommendation for what fuse to run off of? I figure the "2nd" power outlet that is on with the key, but I haven't looked up what fuse that is yet.

Also, I have a pair of OEM fogs for my RR XHD bumper. I plan on running them the exact same way as my KC Driving lights. I will not be using the turn signal stalk. Anyone know what size relay I will need for those?

Thanks.

 

The slimlites are 130w and the OEMs are 55w. I'm not sure of the amperage of either yet. I'll have to look at the docs with the KCs and look it up for the OEM.

I guess I'll work it out from there.

Thanks.

 

I'm glad that you decided to run your control power off of an accessory circuit. If you plan on using the switched 12 volt power outlet, then you can just simply pick up this power @ the outlet itself. I recommend using the M8 / M9 fuseholde slot ( if you don't already have heated seats ). This will allow you to maintain full capacity on the power outlet. And provide power for future expansion also.

2 * 130 watt = 260 watt
260 watts / 12 volts = 21.66 Amps
Minimum fuse size = 25 Amps
Minimum relay size = 30 Amp
Minimum primary conductor size = #10 THHN (+ battery terminal to relay terminal #30 )
Minimum Lamp conductor size = #14 THHN (from relay terminal #87 to individual conductors to each lamp )

2 * 55 watt = 110 watt
110 watt / 12 volts = 9.16 Amps
Minimum fuse size = 10 Amps, Minimun relay size = 20 Amps
Minimum primary conductor size = #14 THHN (+ battery terminal to relay terminal #30 )
Minimum Lamp conductor size = #16 THHN (from relay terminal #87 to individual conductors to each lamp )