P R N D Not showin up on instrument cluster, no start
I have a 2007 wrangler 2dr 3.8l automatic, its been sitting since September, today I put a brand new battery in it and when I turned the key everything works except the digital shift indicator above the odometer didn't come up. then when I went to turn it over I had nothing. Only when I put my foot on the brake I would get a faint click. I think it maybe a neutral safety switch, but I have not seen anyone with this issue anywhere I looked. any suggestions or solutions would be greatly appreciated
Weird issue. OP not getting a start is most likely something in the starter and interlock circuit. Next I would try the main battery leads joined together for a couple of minutes.
Pulled starter and bench tested it and it works fine. Was replaced less than 2 years ago and getting voltage with a multimeter at the starter. Pulled and checked all fuses and relays and none look corroded. Battery is good at 12v and all electrical is coming on like lights and radio and dash. Only thing can say that’s suspicious is PRND doesn’t show on the dash even if i move the shifter around. Already tried replacing the ignition switch. Already left the battery disconnected for >24 hours to try and reset PCM. The jeep ran perfectly fine before i left town for a wedding. Sat for a week and when i came back its in no start condition. So my next guess is bad PCM TCM. What do u guys think?
I think it has to do with the neutral safety switch / the gear select lever that is on the transmission. The plastic piece wears down and, on mine, would pop off, so no matter where I put the gear shift inside the vehicle it wasn't physically engaged to the transmission.
I had a friend fab up a metal replacement and I have had the issue occur a lot less.
Make sure your transmission gear select is physically connected at the transmission. It can be finicky.
I had a friend fab up a metal replacement and I have had the issue occur a lot less.
Make sure your transmission gear select is physically connected at the transmission. It can be finicky.
Had a similar issue that i was able to fix with help from a local shop wizard with electrical issues. So specifically my issue was a no start condition when Turning the key to ignition. Oddly enough when the key was just switched to the start position PRND didn’t show on the dash so there was a communication error somewhere. My buddy help me locate which harness it was and it ran from the ECM the fuse box. Testing continuity helped narrow it down but my break was unfortunately on the back of the engine main harness (way behind the engine) for me it was the red wire. I quick spliced a rouge wire from the ECM side (red wire) to the fuse box connector (red wire) as a short term fix and pow it started right up. I did eventually pull the motor/harness while doing another repair and located/permanently fixed the break. It was on the drivers side near the rear valve cover and was caused by oxidation. Had to cut out about 5 inches and solder in a new piece. I have videos of the exact wire and am glad to help anyone having the same issue but everything i did when testing for the break and splicing in a new wire was done under the supervision of a highly skilled automotive professional. I don’t recommend quick splicing wires unless you’re absolutely positive that the connections are correct.
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Had a similar issue that i was able to fix with help from a local shop wizard with electrical issues. So specifically my issue was a no start condition when Turning the key to ignition. Oddly enough when the key was just switched to the start position PRND didn’t show on the dash so there was a communication error somewhere. My buddy help me locate which harness it was and it ran from the ECM the fuse box. Testing continuity helped narrow it down but my break was unfortunately on the back of the engine main harness (way behind the engine) for me it was the red wire. I quick spliced a rouge wire from the ECM side (red wire) to the fuse box connector (red wire) as a short term fix and pow it started right up. I did eventually pull the motor/harness while doing another repair and located/permanently fixed the break. It was on the drivers side near the rear valve cover and was caused by oxidation. Had to cut out about 5 inches and solder in a new piece. I have videos of the exact wire and am glad to help anyone having the same issue but everything i did when testing for the break and splicing in a new wire was done under the supervision of a highly skilled automotive professional. I don’t recommend quick splicing wires unless you’re absolutely positive that the connections are correct.







