2015RuBiCoNinNY

I picked up A set of rigid Dooleys and the brackets to mount them in the factory location my question is for those that have done this how did you splice them in. did you cut the wires on the factory connectors and splice the rigid connectors on to the factory wires? Or did you run them independently? I'd like to keep the stock switch. Just wondering if the factory wiring can handle them and how you spliced?

2015RuBiCoNinNY

Bump. Somebody has to have an answer lol

2015 JKUR, Anvil, 3.5" AEV, 35x12.5R17 Nitto Trail Grapplers, Bestop Trektop Pro, TruckLites, Poison Spyder Stubby, Smittybilt 12.5 XRC, Red Prolink, EVO rear bumper cover, Banks CAI & Cat Back,

14Sport

Are you referring to the fog light location? The fog light wires are PWM. Some guys have successfully done it with no issues. A lot as a matter of fact. But some guys have problems with flickering. Could be that some people are more sensitive to flickering.

So if you want to try it, I would advise you just test it first by using jumper wires from the stock connectors to the dooleys. If all looks good, then finalize the install. I would cut the connector off the fogs and attach them to the new lights so you can always go back to stock if you want.

Sami@inspired-engineering

You will need to make some type of anti flicker harness to prevent flickering. Most people run them to a switch to alleviate that issue.

KenB1010

I recently installed a set of D2's and wired them directly to the factory fogs on my 14 JKU. They work fine, but when I'd turn them off they would flicker for 5-10 min.

I really didn't like the emergency light look so I did some research and wired a resistor parallel to the LEDs. I spec’d the resistor size using Current limiting Resistor calculator for leds. Ledcalc would only calculate the resistor up to a draw of 2000ma and D2's have a draw of 2500ma, so like a good garage mechanic I extrapolated some.

Ledcalc recommended a 1ohm 10watt resistor for a 2000ma LED, I tried an 8 ohm 2w and it worked, but the resistor got too hot to touch, next I tried 15 ohm 2w, but again it just got too hot.

I called my dad for help (retired electrical engineer), he got out his slide rule and said to try a 100ohms 25watt ceramic resistor.

I wired it parallel to the D2 and it works great. The D2 is nice and bright with no flicker when I turn it off. I ran the lights for an hour and the resistor was only about 10 degrees above ambient temp. So I wrapped it all up and put it in a wire loom. Then I ran the lights for a 2 hour drive. Lights work great and no flicker when I turn them off. Resistor is staying nice and cool. Time will tell how it holds up.

As a side note, I called rigid and asked them about the flicker problem. They said to install a "warning canceller" like those found on amazon. I ordered one from amazon, I’ll try that out when it arrives.

Note: I copied this post from my post on the same subject on another forum.

espi

Resistor = desired voltage drop / current.

The voltage drop depends on the battery voltage minus the minimum operating voltage.

Then the wattage is the voltage you just calculated multiplied by the current. Then divide that number by 0.8 to allow safety factor and that's the wattage you want.

tribulation138

Seperate wiring i did. I have them in the factory holes. One thing i dont like is i cant adjust the angle.