replacement keys
X2 on that. One of the first things I did when I bought our JK was buy two keys off the famous internet auction site for $30. When they arrived I had them cut at Ace Hardware and the guy did it for free after asking how much I had to pay for them and found I had bought two for the price of one of his. Then did the programming myself in the JK, now I have two working spares in case of catastrophe. Everyone should get at least one spare to avoid the dreaded dealer price of a replacement key. It's very cheap insurance.
X3
I bought my rock key off eBay and had a locksmith cut it for a couple bucks.
I have two non-chip keys for "safety" and locking the console/glovebox when needed.
We bought the wife's T&C used from a Chevy dealer and it only came with one key. THAT was an expensive upgrade. I bought a spare chip key once I had two working keys.
I bought my rock key off eBay and had a locksmith cut it for a couple bucks.
I have two non-chip keys for "safety" and locking the console/glovebox when needed.
We bought the wife's T&C used from a Chevy dealer and it only came with one key. THAT was an expensive upgrade. I bought a spare chip key once I had two working keys.
You can get a non FOB key for as little as 13 bucks online before ship from here - h**p://saveonkeys.net/. I've seen them on Amazon for 24 bucks and anywhere from 26 down to 14 or so on Ebay (again, non FOB). FOB keys run 3 - 5X that unfortunately.
Many places can cut it, some Lowes and Home Depots even
You do need both keys to program a new one. The instructions for programming:
1. Cut the additional Sentry Key Transponder blank(s) to match the ignition switch lock cylinder key code.
2. Insert the first valid key into the ignition switch. Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position for at least 3 seconds, but no longer than 15-seconds. Then, turn the ignition switch to the “LOCK” position and remove the first key.
3. Insert the second valid key into the ignition switch. Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position within 15 seconds. After ten seconds, a chime will sound. In addition, the Vehicle Security Alarm Indicator Light will begin to flash. Turn the ignition switch to the “LOCK” position and remove the second key.
4. Insert a blank Sentry Key into the ignition switch. Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position within 60 seconds. After 10 seconds, a single chime will sound. In addition, the Vehicle Security Alarm Indicator Light will stop flashing. To indicate that programming is complete, the indicator light will turn on again for 3 seconds and then turn off".
Many places can cut it, some Lowes and Home Depots even
You do need both keys to program a new one. The instructions for programming:
1. Cut the additional Sentry Key Transponder blank(s) to match the ignition switch lock cylinder key code.
2. Insert the first valid key into the ignition switch. Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position for at least 3 seconds, but no longer than 15-seconds. Then, turn the ignition switch to the “LOCK” position and remove the first key.
3. Insert the second valid key into the ignition switch. Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position within 15 seconds. After ten seconds, a chime will sound. In addition, the Vehicle Security Alarm Indicator Light will begin to flash. Turn the ignition switch to the “LOCK” position and remove the second key.
4. Insert a blank Sentry Key into the ignition switch. Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position within 60 seconds. After 10 seconds, a single chime will sound. In addition, the Vehicle Security Alarm Indicator Light will stop flashing. To indicate that programming is complete, the indicator light will turn on again for 3 seconds and then turn off".
Glad I read this post. I bought two key blanks (w/o remote entry); delivered for about $30 from the site mentioned above. My local ACE hardware even cut them for free cuz I brought in the blanks.
GNNR posted the manual instructions but my reality was a little different. In step 3, I did not get a chime but I did get the flashing light, so I proceeded. Then, in step 4 the single chime did sound but it was after about 30 seconds (not 10); the light did stop flashing but did not come on again for 3 seconds.
Never the less, the procedure worked and I now have an additional two programmed keys (without remote entry) to go with my two OEM keys.
cheap insurance.
Of course a locksmith has the programming tool, I am a locksmith and I have a few. If you loose one of your keys and can no longer do "on board programing", you have two options via a locksmith. You can "clone" the key to a new one which will run anywhere from $65-$95 for a non-remote head key and programing. The other option is to have a locksmith hook up his transponder equipment (plugs into ECU) and program in an additional key Which is much more expensive around $123-$150 for a non-remote head key and $160-$185 for a remote head key.
Anyway you slice it, it will be cheeper and faster to go to a reputable local locksmith.
Are we talking about a key that has a fob attached to it, or my generic X model key that has the chip. I may take advantage of the programming expertise offered here and purchase a chipped key from fleabay soon if my dealer will charge that much to program a new key for me. That's outrageous!
Are we talking about a key that has a fob attached to it, or my generic X model key that has the chip. I may take advantage of the programming expertise offered here and purchase a chipped key from fleabay soon if my dealer will charge that much to program a new key for me. That's outrageous!
Cheap insurance!
OK, I only have one key to JEEP now. Could I get a non-FOB and just have it cut? I don't care about the keyless, would that work?


