Skippman is correct about the factory amp limiting power output to the soundbar. I bought my 07 jk with infinty system and the kicker factory upgraded speakers last year with an aftermarket headunit already installed. The sound quality wasnt the greatest so this summer i changed my headunit out and added a couple amps and a sub. i completely rewired my system so im only really using 4 or 5 of the factory wires and i removed the factory amp from under the steering collum. After doing all this the biggest change to the sound quality was adding a 4 channel amp to power the speakers. it gave me more power to the soundbar and the aftermarket headunit lets me play with the fader and a few other things to tune it how i want it.

 

yeh im thinking of just swapping the amp to a 5 channel and gice the headunit, speakers and sub the power its needing. I think the amp is now underpowering the speakers especially since it can only be wired for 2 channel. When you replaced your amp was there alot more wiring you needed to do or could you just use the existing wires for the speakers and wire them to your new amp

 

I couldn't disagree more. 7+ year old technology, distortion around 80-90% volume (put an Oscope on one if you don't believe me). No EQ, No bass mgt, No time alignment. Poor Bluetooth performance, 2007 iPod integration. If you have/had the factory amp it is even worse. There are A LOT of new features available that were too expensive 7 years ago. Most higher end Chrysler vehicles that cost over $30k like our Jeeps have abandoned the 130/430/730 long ago for the 8.5" touch screens.

 

Rubinon,

Which Amp did you use? I have read a lot about the amp being the issue. I have been looking at Alpine SPR-60 speakers and wondered what amp would be compatible. As I mentioned or have not mentioned. I have never done anything with audio so I am at a loss. Can you explain or provide wiring tips/diagram maybe in a PM if you could. I have been looking at 5 channel amps, I am assuming you used a 4 channel just for the front speakers and the sound bar. What about the rear sub? What did you do with it?

Thanks, Dave

 

Mattk11,

I agree that the technology and cost have come down and I would love to replace the headunit but I am still bound by the cost. I would love the additional feature/functionality that a newer one would provide but my wallet is shallow. Are there any you recommend? I do have the steering wheel, UCONN, SAT integrated today with my headunit. At this point the only thing I have looked at is a lockpick.

 

I used a JBL gt series amp that i have had for a while that i pulled out of my old tj its a 640 watt max output amp. wiring it isnt that difficult just a little time consuming (took me 2 1/2 days between tear down and install and tuning). i can take some pics when i get off work and will also put up the wiring color codes for all the speakers (they arent very consistent with what colors but its fairly easy to figure out). For my sub i have a apline mono block amp cant recall the exact one wired to a alpine type R 10in sub in a custom box. i am still running factory speakers and it sounds a lot better than factory but i am gonna be upgrading to alpine type R speakers all around.

 

Here's some fuzzy math for you.

Value of your 430 if you sell it - $300-400
Value of your uConnect if you sell it - $100
Money you will save if you don't buy lock pick - $300

New Pioneer 4100NEX - $550 - $625 (Amazon or Crutchfield)
PAC adapter $75
Or iDatalink $120
Crutchfield will give you all the other adapters and a warrantee.

Looks like a wash....or by my math you actually save money by buying an aftermarket head unit...haha

 

In order to plug into the stock wiring you have to buy the iDatalink and a harness. There are a couple wires that you have to splice into, but nearly all connections are via the stock harness.

I think you will find there are many head units this setup will work with. Look on Crutchfield for great data. I bought most of my equipment through them and it all works as advertised.

 

With my aftermarket head unit I wired the rear speakers directly. I cut the wires at the output connector of the factory amplifier and soldered wire form the head unit to the factory wires.
This thread has the wire and connector information you need. .

If you want to keep cost down and keep the factory amp, I'd recommend considering buying one of those micro amplifiers and adding more power to the rear speakers. Those little amps are pretty cheap and will get you 40-50 watts RMS. It would be very easy to add a little amp while you are cutting the rear speaker wires.

Ultimately I am replacing the entire system and I am nearly done.

 

If you are adding a two channel amp, you don't want the amp on the rear speakers you want it on the front speakers.