Speakers ?
I have the infinity system in my 2012 with a blown speaker in the passenger knee panel. I picked up a set of Kicker cs series for dirt cheap yesterday on a whim (40 bucks for 4 all new still in box). Now I am not an radio guy. I have put in a few head units and have basic knowledge but only done speakers once in the past and it was a full system (head unit, sub, amps etc). I am just wanting to do the speakers on him for now.
I read somewhere about make sure you get 2 ohm speakers if you keep stock head unit. well first mark against me for a spontaneous purchase these are 4 ohm. My question is should I still drop these in or am I just creating more issues for myself on this? I can still return them if need be. I read a few reviews on them and a lot of people had put they were a great upgrade to the wrangler sound system but of course didn't say if they were running standard sound or the infinity system. For reference the speakers specs are: Model: 43CSC654Key Specs
Audio
Features
Design
Dimension
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I can confirm with about 90% accuracy you're correct on the factory system working with 2ohm speakers, I can confirm with 100% accuracy that going from 2ohms to 4ohms is less of a worry than going with less (1ohm or .5ohms)
Basically the lower the ohm number the less resistance your system pushes against which means it can play louder...but it will burn up if it's not rated for it. They higher the resistance they lower the power output (which can also burn up your stuff if you're running around cranked all the time or have an extreme difference in ohm loads) So to answer you question if you should keep the speakers or return them, if you're planning on upgrading the stereo and bypassing the amp, go for it. The infinity amp in our jeeps tunes the sound specifically for the factory speakers and layout. As soon as you start upgrading them with speakers that can handle two or three times the power and produce much clearer sound from a larger spectrum you need to get rid of the factory amp. If you're just trying to slap something in to get rid of a blown speaker...also go for it...lol, you spent a whopping $40 on these things, it's not like you can buy a factory replacement for less right? |
Am I going to blow the amp running these then because I am quite guilty of cranking Steel Panther on the way home at 26ish every day. :rock: Volume is my friend.
I do plan on replacing the HU eventually but I have only really had the Jeep for 1 week so lift and wheels is more important. Im just tired of hearing the "pop" when a bass drum hits from that speaker. Also thanks for the quick reply |
Originally Posted by NorseLife
(Post 4339365)
Am I going to blow the amp running these then because I am quite guilty of cranking Steel Panther on the way home at 26ish every day. :rock: Volume is my friend.
I do plan on replacing the HU eventually but I have only really had the Jeep for 1 week so lift and wheels is more important. Im just tired of hearing the "pop" when a bass drum hits from that speaker. Also thanks for the quick reply And you're welcome ;-) |
Something to also keep in mind is that the speakers you purchased are meant to driven by an amp, not just deck power.
So when the time comes adding a small 4 channel amp pushing at least 50 watts at RMS (no more than 100 RMS) will greatly increase the performance from those speakers. |
Thank you! Genuinely appreciate the information. Was weird crutchfield had the OEM ones listed as 4 ohm; even told me in a text chat at one point. Then everybody on the forums was saying it was different. Guess they don't know what they are talking about haha.
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Originally Posted by NorseLife
(Post 4339412)
Thank you! Genuinely appreciate the information. Was weird crutchfield had the OEM ones listed as 4 ohm; even told me in a text chat at one point. Then everybody on the forums was saying it was different. Guess they don't know what they are talking about haha.
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So after doing some more reading it seems there is more to the story.
IF you're running a factory amplified system (alpine/infinity) your head unit talks to the factory amp through what's called a can-bus system. The AMP produces the channels needed to run the six speaker stereo, not the HU. So when the time comes that you replace the speakers they're only getting what the AMP lets them. From there it also means that upgrading is an all or nothing game really, upgrade just the head unit and you can't get past the factory amps tune limiting your sound output, upgrade just the speakers and you're getting a crummy tune/low power from the factory system. Also, the 2ohm vs 4ohm debate is true to a point. The front speakers are handled by the amp individually (dash tweeters and dash mids) with no external crossover, the amp handles all the frequency split, if those two speakers are wired together they create a 2ohm load but normally they're not...so long story short in your case you should be good to go for a bit using these replacements however when the time comes to upgrade start with a decent deck (not to expensive anymore, Poineer makes a good double din unit with bluetooth and such for about $100) and go from there with an amp. I'll be changing out my stock system and just completely removing it, bypassing the amp all together and adding speakers as I already have an Alpine 5 channel sitting in the garage with a small sub I can use for now. |
Hey Geeky thanks for the insight. I actually am already hearing the slight distortion in some tones from the amp trying to keep up. Still haven't got a HU but I did pick up a Kicker PXA330.4 (kickers version of alpines ktp 445u) basically a 300 watt 4 channel amp. Was going to wire it in to the knee and roll bar to push the power they need and since it has adjustable gain levels for 2 pair of channels figured it would also allow me to crank the roll bar up a notch to a more even level.
My plan is a hideaway amp in the back eventually and a HU eventually but for the meantime I just want some basic audio. This seemed to be the best route since it would have been in the plans anyway I am just doing it a little backwards and will have more labor rerouting later which I am fine with. My biggest concern lately has been adding this amp pre or post infinity amp. I read going pre messes with the canbus but you never want to go post. The kicker amp is rated to handle 25 watt input and the infinity system pushes roughly 20 watts so i think post should work. Also will allow me a fresh wire later when I bypass the factory amp for the full setup on the pre side. What are your thoughts on this? |
Originally Posted by NorseLife
(Post 4339919)
Hey Geeky thanks for the insight. I actually am already hearing the slight distortion in some tones from the amp trying to keep up. Still haven't got a HU but I did pick up a Kicker PXA330.4 (kickers version of alpines ktp 445u) basically a 300 watt 4 channel amp. Was going to wire it in to the knee and roll bar to push the power they need and since it has adjustable gain levels for 2 pair of channels figured it would also allow me to crank the roll bar up a notch to a more even level.
My plan is a hideaway amp in the back eventually and a HU eventually but for the meantime I just want some basic audio. This seemed to be the best route since it would have been in the plans anyway I am just doing it a little backwards and will have more labor rerouting later which I am fine with. My biggest concern lately has been adding this amp pre or post infinity amp. I read going pre messes with the canbus but you never want to go post. The kicker amp is rated to handle 25 watt input and the infinity system pushes roughly 20 watts so i think post should work. Also will allow me a fresh wire later when I bypass the factory amp for the full setup on the pre side. What are your thoughts on this? I believe your best bet is to do what I'm doing and that is to replace the HU. I chose something that has the basics covered (good voltage from the outputs, good EQ options, and digital filters) then put some bass blockers on the tweeters to save them (or unhook them all together since your new speakers have them, I'm using the stock speakers for now). My choice was the Pioneer mvh s600bs for just under $100, this unit has bluetooth, 4 volt outputs (six of them), a 13 band EQ, as well as high pass and low pass filters, added bonus...you can adjust the colors of the display to match your interior lighting :-) Combine that unit with any smart phone on a solid mount and you've got all the connectivity you need with a solid base for a good sounding system that also doesn't "look" very nice to keep folks away. All you'll need to do is remove the infinity amp (under the drivers side dash) and jumper the harness from the deck to the outputs from the amp, this will take some trial and error and I'm happy to report back once I've got it all figured out. I'm testing things with a harness from a basic system (non infinity system), something to grab power and such off of. |
Just cut the wires on the 16 pin plug on the factory amp that go to the speakers under the dash and soundbar and wire in that mini amp. That's what I did and I have no issues. You are essentially just bypassing the factory amp to the speakers. Leave the factory amp where it is and install the mini amp elsewhere. Mine is under the steering wheel zip tied to the bracket thats held on by 2 10 mm bolts
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Originally Posted by Jkwrangler89
(Post 4340027)
Just cut the wires on the 16 pin plug on the factory amp that go to the speakers under the dash and soundbar and wire in that mini amp. That's what I did and I have no issues. You are essentially just bypassing the factory amp to the speakers. Leave the factory amp where it is and install the mini amp elsewhere. Mine is under the steering wheel zip tied to the bracket thats held on by 2 10 mm bolts
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Cigarette lighter plug for remote turn on and yes I did. I left the factory amp installed to retain the stock sub
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Originally Posted by Jkwrangler89
(Post 4340045)
Cigarette lighter plug for remote turn on and yes I did. I left the factory amp installed to retain the stock sub
I'm not worried about a "turn on" signal, that can be grabbed from anywhere with the proper ignition position, that's not what I was asking. I mean the sound, the signal for the amp...that is coming from your aftermarket headunit using the pre-outs at the back (rca connection) as the stock unit doesn't produce anything usable with the Infinity system due to the data signal that get's tossed to the amp. |
Ah okay, you will need a line out converter if your using the stock radio To get pre amp outputs. Here you go...
https://itstillruns.com/connect-stereo-line-out-converter-5076523.html |
Originally Posted by Jkwrangler89
(Post 4340060)
Ah okay, you will need a line out converter if your using the stock radio To get pre amp outputs. Here you go...
https://itstillruns.com/connect-ster...r-5076523.html NorseLife - if you're up for some more reading here is a great thread on the process to properly upgrade the factory system. I have no desire to dive in that far because my radio is just the infinity setup with no other additions (bluetooth/nav/mygig), but it's a wealth of knowledge on the subject. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-e...em-h-u-226953/ |
I can verify after finishing my install today the speakers run at ~2ohms and the sub runs each voice coil at ~2ohms (meaning it's either a 4ohm or 1ohm load depending on how you wire it)
All in all replacing the infinity amp with my Alpine MRPF-450 and the HU with the Pioneer I chose made a HUGE difference even with using the factory speakers/sub. It sounds much better and at this point I can replace components as I have cash available vs all at once. |
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