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Speakers ?

 
Old 04-03-2019, 05:24 AM
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Default Speakers ?

I have the infinity system in my 2012 with a blown speaker in the passenger knee panel. I picked up a set of Kicker cs series for dirt cheap yesterday on a whim (40 bucks for 4 all new still in box). Now I am not an radio guy. I have put in a few head units and have basic knowledge but only done speakers once in the past and it was a full system (head unit, sub, amps etc). I am just wanting to do the speakers on him for now.

I read somewhere about make sure you get 2 ohm speakers if you keep stock head unit. well first mark against me for a spontaneous purchase these are 4 ohm. My question is should I still drop these in or am I just creating more issues for myself on this? I can still return them if need be. I read a few reviews on them and a lot of people had put they were a great upgrade to the wrangler sound system but of course didn't say if they were running standard sound or the infinity system.

For reference the speakers specs are:

Model: 43CSC654

Key Specs

  • RMS Power100 watts
  • Peak Power HandlingInfo300 watts
  • Minimum Frequency ResponseInfo40 hertz
  • Maximum Frequency ResponseInfo20 kilohertz
  • Sensitivity90 decibels
  • Speaker Size6.5 inches
  • Speaker TypeCoaxial
  • Tweeter CompositionPoly-Ether Imide (PEI)
  • Woofer CompositionPolypropylene
  • Woofer Surround MaterialPolypropylene

Audio

  • RMS Power100 watts
  • Peak Power HandlingInfo300 watts
  • Minimum Frequency ResponseInfo40 hertz
  • Maximum Frequency ResponseInfo20 kilohertz
  • ImpedanceInfo4 ohms
  • Sensitivity90 decibels

Features

  • Integrated CrossoverYes
  • MarineNo
  • Grille IncludedYes

Design

  • Speaker Size6.5 inches
  • Speaker TypeCoaxial
  • Tweeter CompositionPoly-Ether Imide (PEI)
  • Woofer CompositionPolypropylene
  • Woofer Surround MaterialPolypropylene

Dimension

  • Cutout Diameter4.8 inches
  • Mount Depth1.7 inches
  • Flush MountYes
  • Product Height6.75 inches
  • Product Width6.75 inches
  • Product Depth1.75 inches
As always thanks in advance!
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Old 04-03-2019, 09:19 AM
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I can confirm with about 90% accuracy you're correct on the factory system working with 2ohm speakers, I can confirm with 100% accuracy that going from 2ohms to 4ohms is less of a worry than going with less (1ohm or .5ohms)

Basically the lower the ohm number the less resistance your system pushes against which means it can play louder...but it will burn up if it's not rated for it. They higher the resistance they lower the power output (which can also burn up your stuff if you're running around cranked all the time or have an extreme difference in ohm loads)

So to answer you question if you should keep the speakers or return them, if you're planning on upgrading the stereo and bypassing the amp, go for it. The infinity amp in our jeeps tunes the sound specifically for the factory speakers and layout. As soon as you start upgrading them with speakers that can handle two or three times the power and produce much clearer sound from a larger spectrum you need to get rid of the factory amp. If you're just trying to slap something in to get rid of a blown speaker...also go for it...lol, you spent a whopping $40 on these things, it's not like you can buy a factory replacement for less right?
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Old 04-03-2019, 11:27 AM
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Am I going to blow the amp running these then because I am quite guilty of cranking Steel Panther on the way home at 26ish every day. Volume is my friend.

I do plan on replacing the HU eventually but I have only really had the Jeep for 1 week so lift and wheels is more important. Im just tired of hearing the "pop" when a bass drum hits from that speaker.

Also thanks for the quick reply
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Old 04-04-2019, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by NorseLife View Post
Am I going to blow the amp running these then because I am quite guilty of cranking Steel Panther on the way home at 26ish every day. Volume is my friend.

I do plan on replacing the HU eventually but I have only really had the Jeep for 1 week so lift and wheels is more important. Im just tired of hearing the "pop" when a bass drum hits from that speaker.

Also thanks for the quick reply
You "shouldn't" be able to blow them running from 2ohms to 4ohms, however keep an eye out for any degrading sound (means the amp is heating up) or sound cutting out as you turn it up (means the amp is "clipping" ie: hitting it's power limit). If you watch for both of those things, you should be good to go.

And you're welcome ;-)
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Old 04-04-2019, 06:36 AM
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Something to also keep in mind is that the speakers you purchased are meant to driven by an amp, not just deck power.

So when the time comes adding a small 4 channel amp pushing at least 50 watts at RMS (no more than 100 RMS) will greatly increase the performance from those speakers.
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Old 04-04-2019, 06:52 AM
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Thank you! Genuinely appreciate the information. Was weird crutchfield had the OEM ones listed as 4 ohm; even told me in a text chat at one point. Then everybody on the forums was saying it was different. Guess they don't know what they are talking about haha.
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Old 04-07-2019, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by NorseLife View Post
Thank you! Genuinely appreciate the information. Was weird crutchfield had the OEM ones listed as 4 ohm; even told me in a text chat at one point. Then everybody on the forums was saying it was different. Guess they don't know what they are talking about haha.
I haven't pulled mine to check them first hand yet either, I'm going off of many folks reporting the 2ohm speck so...one I do pull them to check things out in a few weeks I'll be able to confirm one way or the other.
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Old 04-12-2019, 07:14 AM
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So after doing some more reading it seems there is more to the story.

IF you're running a factory amplified system (alpine/infinity) your head unit talks to the factory amp through what's called a can-bus system. The AMP produces the channels needed to run the six speaker stereo, not the HU. So when the time comes that you replace the speakers they're only getting what the AMP lets them. From there it also means that upgrading is an all or nothing game really, upgrade just the head unit and you can't get past the factory amps tune limiting your sound output, upgrade just the speakers and you're getting a crummy tune/low power from the factory system. Also, the 2ohm vs 4ohm debate is true to a point. The front speakers are handled by the amp individually (dash tweeters and dash mids) with no external crossover, the amp handles all the frequency split, if those two speakers are wired together they create a 2ohm load but normally they're not...so long story short in your case you should be good to go for a bit using these replacements however when the time comes to upgrade start with a decent deck (not to expensive anymore, Poineer makes a good double din unit with bluetooth and such for about $100) and go from there with an amp.

I'll be changing out my stock system and just completely removing it, bypassing the amp all together and adding speakers as I already have an Alpine 5 channel sitting in the garage with a small sub I can use for now.
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Old 04-12-2019, 08:11 AM
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Hey Geeky thanks for the insight. I actually am already hearing the slight distortion in some tones from the amp trying to keep up. Still haven't got a HU but I did pick up a Kicker PXA330.4 (kickers version of alpines ktp 445u) basically a 300 watt 4 channel amp. Was going to wire it in to the knee and roll bar to push the power they need and since it has adjustable gain levels for 2 pair of channels figured it would also allow me to crank the roll bar up a notch to a more even level.

My plan is a hideaway amp in the back eventually and a HU eventually but for the meantime I just want some basic audio. This seemed to be the best route since it would have been in the plans anyway I am just doing it a little backwards and will have more labor rerouting later which I am fine with.

My biggest concern lately has been adding this amp pre or post infinity amp. I read going pre messes with the canbus but you never want to go post.

The kicker amp is rated to handle 25 watt input and the infinity system pushes roughly 20 watts so i think post should work. Also will allow me a fresh wire later when I bypass the factory amp for the full setup on the pre side.

What are your thoughts on this?
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Old 04-13-2019, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by NorseLife View Post
Hey Geeky thanks for the insight. I actually am already hearing the slight distortion in some tones from the amp trying to keep up. Still haven't got a HU but I did pick up a Kicker PXA330.4 (kickers version of alpines ktp 445u) basically a 300 watt 4 channel amp. Was going to wire it in to the knee and roll bar to push the power they need and since it has adjustable gain levels for 2 pair of channels figured it would also allow me to crank the roll bar up a notch to a more even level.

My plan is a hideaway amp in the back eventually and a HU eventually but for the meantime I just want some basic audio. This seemed to be the best route since it would have been in the plans anyway I am just doing it a little backwards and will have more labor rerouting later which I am fine with.

My biggest concern lately has been adding this amp pre or post infinity amp. I read going pre messes with the canbus but you never want to go post.

The kicker amp is rated to handle 25 watt input and the infinity system pushes roughly 20 watts so i think post should work. Also will allow me a fresh wire later when I bypass the factory amp for the full setup on the pre side.

What are your thoughts on this?
From what I've read the only way you can add an amp to the factory system is post infinity amp due to the can-bus system. The connection from the HU to the amp isn't pushing the signal you need to pull from, that only comes from the outputs on the amp as the HU only puts out a data signal that is them processed/tuned/amplified by the infinity amp. The added downside to this is that your signal going to your amp from the infinity amp will be completely filtered and processed...so you'd need another component to flatten that out just to get good clean signal...lol

I believe your best bet is to do what I'm doing and that is to replace the HU. I chose something that has the basics covered (good voltage from the outputs, good EQ options, and digital filters) then put some bass blockers on the tweeters to save them (or unhook them all together since your new speakers have them, I'm using the stock speakers for now). My choice was the Pioneer mvh s600bs for just under $100, this unit has bluetooth, 4 volt outputs (six of them), a 13 band EQ, as well as high pass and low pass filters, added bonus...you can adjust the colors of the display to match your interior lighting :-)

Combine that unit with any smart phone on a solid mount and you've got all the connectivity you need with a solid base for a good sounding system that also doesn't "look" very nice to keep folks away. All you'll need to do is remove the infinity amp (under the drivers side dash) and jumper the harness from the deck to the outputs from the amp, this will take some trial and error and I'm happy to report back once I've got it all figured out. I'm testing things with a harness from a basic system (non infinity system), something to grab power and such off of.
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