GrapplerJK

Hey guys, I've searched and read a ton on here and I want to make sure I'm understanding this correctly. Thanks for the help.

I have a 14 JKU and I'm upgrading to Rigid D2's for fogs, more D2's on the A frame, Rigid rock lights underneath and an additional Rigid 20" on the hood, all while upgrading the headlights to JW Speakers. So far I only have the D2's in the fog lights and they are flickering. I'm reading a lot of the old threads on this.

Will the sPod with the source system be what I need to prevent all the flickering and keep all the power and wiring from tying into the main power system? I am very novice with electrical. Any help and suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks ahead of time.

14Sport

The easy answer is to not use the factory circuit for the fog lights, run them off the sPod directly. As I understand it, that's what is causing the problem. I have read where members have used diodes and capacitors with varying success using the factory fog light circuit. If that's the route you want to go, then I would say continue to search until you find a precise description of where to install the caps and diodes. Good luck!

And don't forget to post your results.

red09

With all those planned mod's I'd install an sPod. One cable comes into the cabin, switch panel looks professional and neat. All other cabling stays external to the cab. The sPod also takes the lights off the canbus system and will prevent flickering of your aux lighting. As for the JW's, believe they come with a anti-flicker harness or device and don't recall anyone mentioning they flicker.

GrapplerJK

Thanks guys; I think the sPod is the answer and everything I've read is very positive.

OCOutdoors

Is the sPod really needed for say aftermarket LED lightbar or aux D2's not wired to factory harness?

14Sport

No. The sPod allows for a clean install for powering multiple accessories. It reduces the amount of wires needed and therefore the under hood and dash appearance and makes adding additional accessories after the first much simpler. You can however, just wire each accessory normally with the wiring loom that comes with the accessory. Basically you need a fuse, a relay, and a switch to power an accessory. Something that draws very little amperage can usually be wired directly from a factory wire.

red09

The sPod really does simplify the install. Running the wiring for our new 10" Sr2 Combo, took about 10 minutes. The only reason it took that long is because someone is an analwad and wanted the cabling run so it melded in with the rest of the under hood cables runs. No drilling, no messing with firewall feed through, and no canbus flicker.

Mark Doiron

14Sport is correct. I just want to add on that the functionality of the sPOD is needed with aftermarket devices not wired to the factory harness. That is, you need an in-cab switch, fuse and (usually) relay for each new circuit. You can do this with individual wiring harnesses that typically come with each new device. You can the find a place in-cab to mount each switch, and run wires from them back to the engine compartment. But sPod puts all of the fuses and relays in one box, provides a super neat control for up to six circuits (which you can get custom labelled through OTRATTW), and provides a single wire harness to route between the two. It also has a battery low voltage circuit to keep from killing your starter battery. It is neat, well-designed, simplifies install of devices, OEM-looking, and safe. If you have more than a couple extra devices, it is a very elegant solution to what can quickly become an electrical hazard under the hood.

14Sport

Here's a schematic I had done for a member previously who wanted to build their own 4 switch system. As you can see, it's a bit of work but can be done. For wiring a single accessory, just select one relay and follow how that is wired. I like to switch the negative leg of the trigger circuit because it allows for easier wiring under the dash but more commonly, the positive side of the circuit is switched. Also for one accessory, you don't need the fuse box or ground block as those can be wired directly to the battery. You would still need a fuse near the battery. Hope this helps.

darkknight1999

As mentioned you do no t want to mix aftermarket and factory as it will cause problems with the factory system. Everything you add or change should be separate from the factory circuitry. Keep is separate and keep it clean.