I've searched and am somewhat confused. I have a 10" sub in a box with an amp, I would like to keep the stock headunit (not the 6 disc infinity) and connect it to the sub and amp, my question is can I split the power from my amp between the soundbar speakers and the sub? Would the volume limiting aspect of the new headunit to the soundbar speakers affect this? thanks for the help

 

Use a line out RCA converter...will sound like crap though....as stock HU don't sound too good...it's just amplifying bad sound into really bad sound. Hope that helps.

 

Im just tired of getting ripped off. my last two after market stereos in my tj got stolen until I finaly got a tuffy console. Now they dont have one for a jk yet and Im weary about putting another one in. any suggestions?

 

Put one with removable face plate.

 

Tuffy does indeed make one for the JK.....

 

Yeah the center console insert. Im thinking of the one I had in my tj that you could mount the headunit in. oh well, Ill try the 'amp split between the sub and new soundbar speakers with the stock headunit' idea and see how that sounds. thanks for the help

 

I'm not too familar with the stock non-Infinity head unit, but I'm assuming its a regular deck putting out a speaker level signal.

**I think this will work, at least in theory I think it will.** I'll try & explain it without it getting confusing.

Basically, if you want to do it yourself & not buy any type of wire harness, you are going to have to take either the front two or rear two sets of speaker wires and splice them where you now would have two wires coming out from 1 coming in. You now basically have two sets of speaker leds from the original one set.

You could hook up an another set of speakers with this set up, but that's not what you want to do because you'd run into impedance problems & you'd ruin your deck.

Now, you need to add a capacitor...around 150hz or so...to the positive lead of each of the speaker wires that will continue to their original speaker. the negative lead you leave alone & let it continue. This capacitor basically has an 8db per octave slope cutoff and shuts out the bass frequencies from the recipient speakers. (it lets higher freqencies through but now low ones)

Now, with the other set of wires, you need to buy a "coil" for each of your remaining two positive leds. around an 80 or 100hz coil should work. Put 1 coil inline on each of the two positive leads.

Now....with this setup, you've basically carved out the bass frequencies from the signal that was originally going to your two front (or rear) speakers and sent these bass frequencies to your subwoofer amp.

You must now have an amplifier that accepts speaker-level inputs. You just run these 4 wires (two positive & two negative) to your amp and hook up your sub....and make sure you turn on any low pass filters as the coil is also an 8db per octave slope & the filter on your amp will be around 18db per octave (a much sharper cutoff)

The only other consideration would be is you'd have to run back your remote antenna switch (or any remote turn on wire) coming from your head unit back to your amp so it will turn on and off when your deck gets turned on and off.

Run a fused, battery-direct power supply to the amp & ground it good and you're in business.

Does anyone see any problems with this logic?

The biggest issue is maintaining a 4 ohm load on the stock head unit...using caps & coils and dividing up the frequency at the low range should only give a minute range of frequency where the ohm load drops below 4 ohms & it shouldn't be a problem *I don't think*...


In any event, I've done this before, but not with a stock head unit...I've done it with an amplifier which was much more stable than a stock deck...

Either way, it's something to consider.

 

That is cool,

Maybe a similar setup will work for me...

I can tap into my roll bar speaker wires add the capacitors, and coils.. and splice in the wires to my 2 Bose 151 's and put them under my rear seats..

That should take the bass out of my roll bar and have it coming from under the back seats..???

NO amp.. Think the HU will handle that??

 

Those 151's are rated from 4 to 8 ohms....I have no idea how they have a variable range ohm load on a speaker though...

If all you want to do is divert the low freq's to those 151's & they're a true 4 ohm speaker, yes, technically it'll work, but that stock HU is probably only putting out around 5 watts per channel consistently. The listed power range for those 151's is 10 - 100 watts. You'll be running the risk of underdriving them (pushing them with too little power), which can damage or destroy the voice coils in them. This also could damage your HU. It's almost similar to taking a high dollar CB & trying to transmit with a coat hanger as an antenna.

I'm not sure I'd try it, though. I think it may be too much strain on the HU.

Keep in mind for those thinking of just splicing the rear speaker wires & just adding more full-range speakers. You'd be running this set in parallel with the original speakers, which will give your HU a 2 ohm load for those 4 speakers, which will absolutely kill it. If the load itself doesn't immediately blow it, the heat produced will. You gotta use caps & coils. When you do it that way, you're just basically making one big three-way coaxial speaker, but the woofer is remote mounted.

 

Well, it was a thought anyway.... Don't want to blow anything up..

Will have to think of something else..!!