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Subwoofer install.

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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 06:19 AM
  #1  
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From: Grandview, mo
Default Subwoofer install.

Ok guys well I finally found a home for my alpine type r15 dual 2 subs. Got all the parts except the circuit breaker now but that will be here today. Couple of small questions. If my research is correct, my stock infinity system navi stereo has RCA outputs right? And How many amps is the stock alternator putting out? Good ground spots?tips/tricks always help.
Setup:
1 ported box 2.4cuft per-chamber.
2 alpine type r15s dual 2ohm vcs
1 kenwood xr1s 700watt mono class d amp(may change to Memphis 1000w)
all 0gauge wiring
4 ring terminals.
1-100amp stinger waterproof circuit breaker(stupid fuses )
New stinger battery terminals pos and negative.
2 stinger gage reducer terminals for the 0gauge on amp.
Memphis bass control knob
Speaker wire
stinger rca cable

Should be able to wire down to 2ohms no problem. Anything I'm missing? I will post install pics Tomorrow as long as I remember. Lol
btw box ends up weighing 180 with subs. Yesh.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 06:35 AM
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You will probably need some wire loom for routing the power cable through the engine bay. Coat hanger for fishing through the firewall. I can't comment on alternator amps, but I am sure its out on the internet somewhere. Hopefully someone will chime in with a similar setup that can comment on the glass of the hardtop. Hopefully you won't need fiberglass for 2 15s. Possibly a chiropractor after you get done moving that sub box around. Good news though, no one will steal it.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 07:20 AM
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I'm going to try not to run my power all the way across the engine bay. I think I found an opening I can route through near the battery.
I am worried about losing my glass off the hard top, maybe I shouldn't but you never know. I shouldn't need Fiberglass for the box. The mdf if 1"thick. Maybe some dynamiting inside the box and on the floors, but that would be later. The subs will be screwed in using specialty drives for clever theifs. The rear storage is still somewhat accessible but may need to deal with that also. If power loss becomes an issue I want to 0gauge out the amp and battery all together, I heard its a good fix and doesn't require caps in some vehicles.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 07:24 AM
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not really anything thats necessary, but think about maybe throwing those wires in conduit. Also dont run the RCA or any other wires along or right next to your power wires.


Loosk good man!
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 03:03 PM
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The stock MyGig stereo DOES NOT have rca outputs. If you are going to use the MyGig, you will need to get a line out converter (LOC) and splice it into the wires for the factory sub (I forget which wires) AFTER the factory amp and NOT the wires for the front or rear speakers like the instructions say because the amp is crossed over to not play low frequencies to the mids.

A cap will help with your headlights dimming when the subs hit. Caps are not necessary for a system. As for an amp, you will need more than a 700w amp to run these because I believe they are 400-750 watts RMS (2000 watts peak power) for EACH sub. If you need a place to run the wire though the fire wall, pull off the side pannel on the passengers side dash and you will see a hole filled with foam, take a long screwdriver and poke though it and run your wire through it. Thats where I ran mine, idk how easy it will be to get 0 guage wire through it though.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JOSH27
The stock MyGig stereo DOES NOT have rca outputs. If you are going to use the MyGig, you will need to get a line out converter (LOC) and splice it into the wires for the factory sub (I forget which wires) AFTER the factory amp and NOT the wires for the front or rear speakers like the instructions say because the amp is crossed over to not play low frequencies to the mids.

A cap will help with your headlights dimming when the subs hit. Caps are not necessary for a system. As for an amp, you will need more than a 700w amp to run these because I believe they are 400-750 watts RMS (2000 watts peak power) for EACH sub. If you need a place to run the wire though the fire wall, pull off the side pannel on the passengers side dash and you will see a hole filled with foam, take a long screwdriver and poke though it and run your wire through it. Thats where I ran mine, idk how easy it will be to get 0 guage wire through it though.
Ok I've heard they were and they weren't there but still bought the loc incase. Now where is the factory amp located? The 700 should get them moving just fine at 2ohms or less. Wired parallel they will both receive 700rms. I'm sure a drill will help open up the foam . I believe the memphis was 1000watts 1 ohm stable and will prob exchange for it.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ludski
be sure to let them break in. dont bump em hard for a day or two. just calm stuff.
Oh they're broken in already. I bought the 2subs from a buddy who was running 5 in his blazer and relocating them to a wall in a Toyota tocoma. he had a better amp than I do and his amp still failed before the speakers did.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 04:28 PM
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From: SuFu, SD
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Originally Posted by Seltzer08JK
Ok I've heard they were and they weren't there but still bought the loc incase. Now where is the factory amp located? The 700 should get them moving just fine at 2ohms or less. Wired parallel they will both receive 700rms. I'm sure a drill will help open up the foam . I believe the memphis was 1000watts 1 ohm stable and will prob exchange for it.
The Factory amp is under the dash on the drivers side. I spliced mine into the wires in the back by the sub behind the carpet instead of under the dash so I wouldnt have to run rca cables all the way up there. I dont really know much about wiring subs but sounds like you got it figured out.
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 05:29 PM
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Well update is in order I suppose.
Didn't get any pics during the instal but I will take some when I finish installing a few last things.
It seems the hole I thought would be perfect on the passenger side was abruptly foreshortened by two pieces of sheet metal behind the foam. I had enough wire to make it across the engine bay and to the amp so no biggy.
Mounting the amp to the back of the rear passenger seat and running wires striate into the carpet.
I ended up running my LOC from the stock subwoofer wires. Either way it's temporary until a new head unit it in place. Then the sound should clear up.
There is a LOT of bass here. Since I'm still on stock speakers I'm only putting half the RCA volume and half gain voltage because people could hear this thing through WALLS on lvl10volume. It shakes...everything. The smaller 700watt kenwood amp did surprise me and maybe one day throw the 1000watt memphis at it. But this is ridiculous.
I'll be adding a 0gauge wire to the alt and another ground on the battery to help with surging.
I'll post pics after/during installing the breaker and shortening up my wires.
Thanks for all your help.
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