Very new here, so point me to the correct thread if this has already been covered. I bought a 2016 JKU a couple of months ago. The previous owner had an SPOD system with 6 overhead switches installed. He removed all of his lights and accessories, so there is currently nothing wired into the system. How difficult would it be to use that SPOD system to control my front and rear diff locks and sway bar disconnect? The factory switches in the Rubicon are less than ideal. Also, would it be hard to use one of the switches for the fog lights? Thanks in advance, and again sorry for the newbie question.

 

Welcome to JK Forum. Get with the SPOD mfg for the amp specs on each switch. What type/brand of fog lights; LEDs do not draw much amperage.

 

It would be super easy to run the lockers directly wired to the spod and bypassing all the factory BS. the sway bar might be a little harder due to that entire wiring harness and all the safety bs built into the system. there may be threads on that somewhere. I'm sure someone has done it in the last 17 years, but it's been a long time since I've seen anything like that come up.

 

Pardon me as I’ve only had my new to me Jeep for a couple of weeks so I’m learning, and therefore could be completely wrong.
However I believe most, maybe all of that “stuff” is on the Can-Bus, just based on other Bus systems I’ve had experience with, merely disconnecting the factory switches could cause all sorts of problems?

 

Are you telling me I can run the factory lockers to SPOD switches??

 

over the years, there have been people that added a ground wire which enabled them to trigger factory lockers more at will with the factory buttons...which i believe was the original "rubicon locker bypass" method. i believe you have always been able to simply trigger those off a standalone switch like an sPOD , but ofcourse the obvious issue is there's a lack of safety mechanism from you doing a boneheaded move and hitting those buttons while driving on the road, though you can also wire in a safety with another relay.....whatever, you can end up with a big pot of spaghetti if you wanted to bad enough. granted, i don't have a rubicon, but those lockers are simple 12v connection. I ran rubi axles directly wired to my sPOD. for people with a rubicon, not sure what the little lights on your factory buttons do, but yes, you can bypass those buttons. Bypassing the sway bar i think would be a lot bigger issue due to the canbus and that wiring harness.

it was literally as simple as running the two wires from the locker actuator harness to the proper spod terminals.

 

It all seems pretty simple to me, the factory safety measures that you all are mentioning is the only thing I was worried about. At least on mine, the factory locker and sway bar buttons don’t do anything unless you shift into 4L/4H. So I wasn’t sure how it would be affected by using different switches. I’ve definitely seen picture of people using auxiliary switches for the lockers, so I might give it a try and see if I can figure it out.

 

The stock button is a rocker. You push one side once and it locks up the rear (one light on). Push it again and it locks the front also (two lights on). It will toggle the front locker each time you press it when the rear is locked. Push the other side of the button to disengage all. With all that procedure, I always figured there was more integration and it wouldn't be as easy as just switching power to the locker. I've never liked that rocker switch setup, a simple on/off would be great.

Agreed. Also, my SPOD switches are overhead so there's really not much chance of hitting them inadvertently. I ditched the smart bar long ago, with the locker switches relocated that's a whole free panel to play with.

 

My "safety" solution is ultra high tech.

 

I'm no expert, but I would say that it's possible that you won't be able to run a standard sPod "on/off" style (lower independent, I think they're called) switch for the sway bar or diffs. That's not to say you can't run those things off the sPod, but you may have to swap out the "on/off" to more of a momentary 3-position switch (example would be the ones for "winch in/out", although I certainly don't know if I'd put a winch on an sPod due to current load) I'm just thinking of how the factory switches engage and disengage. They don't stay in the active position, but return to center. Aside from that, if you extend the wires from right behind those factory switches to the sPod box under the hood, it sounds like it would work, since you wouldn't be cutting out any safety circuits, rather just "relocating" the switch