UPDATED @ post #8: Problem still exist after WCM and TPIM.



Began experiencing a strange problem that is going on 3 days now.

Whenever I get into the jeep (either by remote start OR just remote unlock and ignition start) and try to start the dang thing I'm getting the symptoms that someone has broken into the jeep (Windshield wipers going on, cannot shift from park, headlights on, Little red light (dot) in FAR RIGHT corner of dash, No instrument cluster lights other than the dot).

I thought it was my battery going bad. Switched it out for a brand-new-made in Dec 2011 Optima Yellow top--- it has NOT solved the problem. I've two gauges (Scan gauge and Aeroforce) that say I'm fine on volts after I've started up with average reads of 14.8

The only way to overcome the Gimp-Start/ Limp-start no-go-anywhere condition is to remove the battery cable for a few seconds to a minute or so, reconnect, and then I can see the milage in the instrument cluster and the the Jeep will start normally & can shift into drive/reverse, etc....... I can shut down and re-start with no problem again and again provided I do it within about 3 to 5 minutes....otherwise the cable's gotta come off for a few before I can get out of limp mode.

I've left the cable off for close to 10 minutes hoping maybe the computer would re-set itself but I believe its something more-- like a circut that is no longer staying charged.

The only other electrical issue thus far is I lost the cig-lighter adapter with the continous power-on feed about 6 months ago.


ANY help would be appreciated-- Thanks!

(I've tried search but my google-fu here seems lamed-up too........)

 

Some of the symptoms sound like the wireless control module, and some sound like the TIPM.

In the meantime, see if pulling the Ignition Off Draw fuse for at least 10 seconds does the same thing as disconnecting the battery. Pull it up to the stop. Don't remove it.

It's the one circled in red.

 

Will DO! Gotta put the kids to bed and if I can find the dang flashlight I'll try tonight, if not it'll be tried in the am and either way I'll reporting back....... If the fuse trick works what will/does that signify? I need a new TIPM?

thanks

 

I'm not clear on your symptoms, so it sounds to me like it could be the TIPM or the WCM.

Read this and see if it applies to you. Either way, see if pulling the IOD fuse works 'til you find out what's wrong. It's esier than pulling the battery cable.

"SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The customer will experience a no engine crank AND a no engine start condition. Also, the remote keyless entry (RKE) system will not operate. This condition may be due to an electrostatic discharge (ESD) from the ignition key into the Wireless Control Module (WCM), causing the WCM to electronically lockup. This condition may occur more frequently in dry and/or cold weather conditions where a sufficient electrostatic charge is more easily produced. This condition is corrected by the replacement of the WCM. DIAGNOSIS:
[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD]1.[/TD]
[TD]With the condition present (i.e. the vehicle in the no crank / no start condition), connect the StarSCAN(R) scan tool to the vehicle.[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]2.[/TD]
[TD]Turn the ignition switch to the "ON position, and power up the StarSCAN(R).[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]3.[/TD]
[TD]If the WCM is electronically locked up, the StarSCAN(R) will display the WCM as being "off bus".[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]4.[/TD]
[TD]If the no crank / no start condition is present, and the WCM is "off bus", then reset the WCM by temporarily removing the IOD fuse (with the key out of the ignition switch), wait for 10 seconds and then reinstall the IOD fuse.[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]5.[/TD]
[TD]With the IOD fuse reset having been performed, verify that the vehicle will now crank, start, and run.[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]6.[/TD]
[TD]If the condition is temporarily corrected by performing the above steps, and if the part number of the WCM is earlier than the part number of the WCM listed in the part reference table in the Service Bulletin Parts Required Section below, then perform the Repair Procedure."

Part numbers:
05026070AP
05026071AQ
05026073AR
05026074AQ
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

 

The jeep DOES start.... either by remote start or by key. If done by remote start I get in and see nothing on the instrument cluster (except the dot on the far right), put key in and turn to on/run and motor stays running but (still) with no instrument lights--- wipers start flashing & headlights go on-- jeep cannot be shifted out of park.

If I use the remote to unlock the jeep, climb in, and directly start the jeep- same situation as above: no instrument light, headlights on, wiprs going and no ability to shift from park.

I get out, flop the hood open, disconnect the NEGATIVE terminal for a few seconds, reconnect, close hood--- go to get in Jeep-- as soon as I open the door I see the usual milage (now) showing in instrument cluster, insert key, start it and drive away.


its annoying as all bloody heck.


Edit to add: seems VERY similar to this thread (thanks for the TIPM mention) it allowed me to find this thread. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...28#post2865128

 

Ok,

Tried 2 things this morning. I left the battery disconnected for 23 minutes then reconnected...... Started fine as usual & took the kids to school. Then same thing happened after dropping the kids off at school and returning to the jeep, tried to start it-- no shifting, headlights on, red dot on right, no milage shown, etc........

Popped the fuse block cover and pulled up on the fuse(es) below, waited a second, then pushed down....Jeep started and drove as usual/normal.

So what does this mean???????????? Am I slated for a new TIPM? or am I missing something simple like a blown fuse buried somewhere in the fustercluck of a fuse box??????????

 

Lil' bump.



Anyone? Am I in need of a whole new TPIM? or is this something I can fix all by meeself?


thanks

 

Ok, I'm pissed....the problem continues:

After trying everything I've seen online I finnally took the Jeep to the stealership.

Actually TOLD them what the problem was and the 2 possible fixes (TPIM or WCM).

After $180 in diagnostic fees they told me it was the TPIM.
Ok, no TPIMS in stock........ after a day of searching they found one at another stealership that really didn't want to give it up. They finnally relented and after 5 days it arrived.
In the meantime (while I wait the 5 days) I went out and bought/installed two very long negative battery cables and a twist/turn battery kill switch so I dont have to open the dam hood EVERY time I want to start the Jeep. Only problem-- not long enough to run into the cab: have them routed to front passenger inner fender........

I bring the jeep back on day 6..............

They tried to charge me another diagnostic fee After some heated words the fee was waived, TPIM was installed (about $300 for TPIM and another 1 hour labor......... while it only actually took 27 minutes to remove the old one, install the new one and program it). Told me it was working fine. Mechanic and service writer actually walked me out................... u guessed it--- same problem: Jeep's mojo fell asleep and wouldn't wake without fliping the battery switch.

Schedule another date. Meantime I try to find more about all this condition. From all the boards I've scoured from not only Jeep Wranglers but to all Jeep product, all chrysler products and even a few non-chrysler ones. Seems this is a growing issue with the TPIMS. Other mentions were the WCM, the wiring harness....or God forbid the PCM.

I call the shop: got minimalistic help so I WENT IN. Told them to cancel the upcoming appointment until they get a WCM in. Get the stooooopid response that they'll have to run more diagnostics on it. I said I'm not paying for the same test twice when you didn't get it right the first time and sold me a NON-REFUNDABLE- VIN specific part. Told them to order a dam WCM and it better be priced better than ~steal me blindly~ and call me when its in: Mechanic and parts dealer were totally cool and understood my frustration: Service writer was still beeing a tool. Mechanic and parts dude actually had to speak to the writer to get the fool to understand.

Speed things up to today. My 9:00am 1-hour appointment that was scheduled a week in advance and re-confirmed the day before finnally arrives---- and I go there at 8:30 and promply have to wait until 10:35 before they got to my Jeep.......

WCM goes in............ problem still exists......

Guys proceed to tell me "Something aint waking up after its been off for more than 5 minutes......." I'm like Nooooooooooo Sheeeeet Sherlock--- why the hell do you think its here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Very, very, VERYYYYYYYYYY long story made short: they comped the time spent on, charged me $51 for the WCM and proceed to tell me it will be 3 days before they can talk to STAR/Jeep/Engineering Gods.

Somebody save me before I shoot the dam jeep and buy a toyota.

 

Best wishes. I lived out this nightmare last summer. Jeep went total demon possessed while with the whole family in it. Wipers, washers, door locks, all going off at the same time. Bad TIPM and no stock anywhere because of shortages due to single supplier Japan sunami area. Had it been up to the dealership, my jeep would still not be fixed. I set out and found my own new TIPM via using different part numbers than the "parts guy" said was the "only" correct part number. Found that the dealer's part numbers are a refurbished part not original OEM#. Discovered only 7 new OEM existed in US inventory and snatched one up. Dealer told me they couldn't promise it would work. I insisted they install it. All is well.

 

I'm have the exact issues. What was the fix?