BAD Experience with 505 Performance 4.1 stroker motor
#1
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BAD Experience with 505 Performance 4.1 stroker motor
Do your homework and feel free to contact me if you have any chance of using this company and their crate 4.1 stroker motor in place of the 3.8. Its been a nightmare for me. 6 weeks in and I still trying to build the motor they sent so i can drive my 2008 JKUR. My Dyno shop refuses to run it fully for fear it will blow up on his machine.
Last edited by radwelder; 11-29-2017 at 05:32 AM.
#2
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What's the issue, the reason they're afraid? Is the block poorly put together or is it a slew of random parts?? More information can help others make a decision on how to approach the 4.1 kit you're speaking of. Did you have other mods that would conflict with the motor?
#3
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Poor Quality control
It started with timing cover installed with wrong gasket blocking port to feed drivers side. They sent second timing cover and again sent the wrong gasket. Then throwing codes about crank and cam position. Found timing gear set installed 1 tooth off. Then had lifters rattling and some not holding pressure, replaced all lifters and found 5 exhaust valves of one type and size and a 6th of different design and size. 7 weeks into it and still cant drive jeep.
#4
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Did you buy one of the higher stages or just the base 4.1?? You're the second person I've seen with issues but nothing too specific yet or many folks with issues.
I'm curious as I'm approaching 200k miles and I'll inevitably need a 'new' motor in the future. Thank you for sharing your experience.
I'm curious as I'm approaching 200k miles and I'll inevitably need a 'new' motor in the future. Thank you for sharing your experience.
#5
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stroker with #2 Cam
This is how much he cares about your $6000 investment.
He questioned why I would have removed the timing gear set and not put it back correctly! His guys would never install it wrong.
Wrong gasket blocking oil port hole to driver side of the block. Blamed it on supplier for sending wrong gasket.
Had 3 bad lifters, said contact supplier not his problem. removed heads and found 2 different exhaust valves, different sizes and different shapes.
He questioned why I would have removed the timing gear set and not put it back correctly! His guys would never install it wrong.
Wrong gasket blocking oil port hole to driver side of the block. Blamed it on supplier for sending wrong gasket.
Had 3 bad lifters, said contact supplier not his problem. removed heads and found 2 different exhaust valves, different sizes and different shapes.
#6
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Valve with no markings
Still sitting dead in the driveway. The exhaust valve has no stamping on it to indentify manf. Cross referencing 8 different manf. with no luck. Because of the legal dealings trying to get a refund I can not contact them.
#7
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A lot of progress then dead.
Had to buy the valve from 505 under a fake name and assembled the motor. Top end sounded great but now you could bottom end. Rattled like a deisel.
https://1drv.ms/v/s!ApIc0fIv6h-DgdB8gmY5PxMZzBdk3A
I sent the link to a couple people that have been great at helping with this and both side connecting rod noise and since we know 505 cut corners on valves maybe he did the same thing on the bottom. Suggestion was to plasti gauge the connecting rods. Found the gap to be way out of spec. Spec is .0007-.0026 plasti gauge had all at .003 or more! For a new rebuilt motor using stock size bearing that again tells me workmanship is the culprit. Then look at the journals! They are pitted beyond reason. Both of these factors could explain why oil pressure so inconsistent. So pulling the motor out. Taking crank and rods to local shop to see if they can be turned and add larger bearings.
https://1drv.ms/v/s!ApIc0fIv6h-DgdB8gmY5PxMZzBdk3A
I sent the link to a couple people that have been great at helping with this and both side connecting rod noise and since we know 505 cut corners on valves maybe he did the same thing on the bottom. Suggestion was to plasti gauge the connecting rods. Found the gap to be way out of spec. Spec is .0007-.0026 plasti gauge had all at .003 or more! For a new rebuilt motor using stock size bearing that again tells me workmanship is the culprit. Then look at the journals! They are pitted beyond reason. Both of these factors could explain why oil pressure so inconsistent. So pulling the motor out. Taking crank and rods to local shop to see if they can be turned and add larger bearings.
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#8
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Why?
So many of my friends ask why not just dispute charge through bank and give him back the motor? I would loose the additional $5,000 I have into it this far.
Sue him they say!
I’ve had his company investigated and he has nothing to win, he’s obviously been down this road before. I definitely would win and have a judgement to prove it which is fine but no cash back in my pocket. I have to get this jeep on the road and the point to all of his is more power. I am confident once built correctly I will gain at least 100 HP at 3000 rpms. The concept of a stroker is good it’s the execution of 505 Performance that’s the problem.
Sue him they say!
I’ve had his company investigated and he has nothing to win, he’s obviously been down this road before. I definitely would win and have a judgement to prove it which is fine but no cash back in my pocket. I have to get this jeep on the road and the point to all of his is more power. I am confident once built correctly I will gain at least 100 HP at 3000 rpms. The concept of a stroker is good it’s the execution of 505 Performance that’s the problem.
#10
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Talked with them yesterday think guy was Neil actually they have a blown 505 motor in shop now. I called to see if they would sell me just the stroker crank. They are not selling kit anymore although still up on website. He explained how they achieve stroke on crank by offset grind. They can do my old crank but trying to keep those parts out of this project. Thanks for tip.