tkob1060

wouldnt it be good if a lot more people actually read them?

Nght&Day-jk

i almost studied the manual and still can get this right

Radcliffe1

Gee I carry mine in the glovebox and have even stopped to read it on the trail. But, I'll admit the shifting into N before getting into 4L is not yet 'second nature'. So it helps to see this kind of thread. And I agree it can't hurt to read the Owners Man. a few times, every once in a while.

drone17

Not to beat a dead horse use 4lo on trails what about if there is snow on the roads and you are doing over 20 possibly ?

drone17

ok so if i am out delivering the mail or saving stranded h2 and h3's what should i use?

NTXJK

Do not go mudding in 4low you will get stuck everytime

NTXJK

I guess I broken the rule I stay in 4hi in the mud and do well another guy on the forum was in 4lo and got stuck in the spots I went right over

Nght&Day-jk

alot of guys run 2H on the trails when ive gone they only go into 4H when about to go into mud holes.. but again why wouldnt you run 4L in mud? if your stuck how else would you put the lockers on..

Nght&Day-jk

yeah but once its gone as far as it can.. your gonna need to get unstuck and thats when lockers come in most of the time in my case..

Eugene

Just a few observations on 4Lo. 4lo actually puts more stress on the running gear as it converts speed into torque. Few people break axels in 4hi. Also for any given speed 4lo puts more strain on the engine and transmission due to the increase in rpms needed to maintain that speed. I run in 4lo and find myself shifting into 5th or 6th to keep the rpms in a manageable range and when sitching back to 4hi is inconvieneient.
Running in 4hi has also alot to do with proper axel ratios. The story above about the YJ frying a clutch may have to do more with oversized tires and a low ratio in the axel than with not being in 4lo. I have a Rubicon (4:1) and am running 35's. With the stock 4:10's I on occasion smelled clutch when negotiating an obstacle in 4hi, requiring me to go to 4lo. There wasn't enough ooomph to power over things. Since I installed my 4:88's I have run those same trails in 4hi without any problem.
Also running in 4lo in snow has more to do with wheel spin than anything else. In moderate snow depths 4hi is fine. In deeper snow where you want to go 'slow' and pack the trail 4lo is more convenient and it prevents wheel spin on starting and stopping, which is the number one reason for digging in and getting stuck. An this is the opposite for mud and sand where wheel spin is what keeps you 'on top'.
And one more. Unless your TC has a viscous clutch, four wheel hi or lo locks the front and rear axels together. ANd for all those out there using 4lo to get the locker. Search the net for mods that allow you to bypass the computer and get lockers whenever you want them (4hi/lo/2wd). I did it and it's not hard.
Oops one more one more thing. 4lo is great for engine breaking when going down really steep or technical stuff. But if I am just coming down moderate terrain I switch to 4hi and use my brakes. Thats what they are for. Using the engine/clutch/transmission for a brake puts alot of stress on these parts. And I had a raod racer tell me that the clutch was designed to be a clutch and the brakes to be brakes, so use them that way.