how to crawl on rocks really slow
#11
Dear Lord
First of all, you need to regear. With your 35" tires YOU DON'T HAVE 3.73 ANYMORE.
With all these big rocks, lockers would be a good investment
Also, you need to be higher I would put a minimum of 2.5" of lift, and like the lady said in the clip: "You need sliders"
First of all, you need to regear. With your 35" tires YOU DON'T HAVE 3.73 ANYMORE.
With all these big rocks, lockers would be a good investment
Also, you need to be higher I would put a minimum of 2.5" of lift, and like the lady said in the clip: "You need sliders"
Last edited by JKU Rubicon; 07-13-2010 at 03:58 AM.
#12
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I think the previous replies sum it up on the need to regear. It will make a difference. Lift, body armor, etc. probably all good ideas as well.
Now, I have two new points to add.
1. Your idea of tipipng the gas pedal is probably not my idea. REAL EASY on the skinny pedal. Its a practice thing. If it does stall out, don't worry, let it stall out. Then hold down on the brake, leave it in gear, (1st gear, 4 lo) and crank it back up, while slowly letting out on the break. What you are doing is using the starter to pull you forward and the break to control the speed. If you do it too much, it will eventually have a negative effect on the starter, but eventually you will get a feel for that pesky skinny pedal on the right.
2. Get a better spotter. "Okay, come on up" is what I think he said. Wow, you could have done without his help. The spotter is the one driving the vehicle, the driver is no more than a remote control. Granted, the video didn't show what happened prior to the attempt, but what should happen, especially with an unexperienced driver, is that they should walk the line with the driver, explaining how they expect the attack on the obstacle to go. Then, prior to, in this case, climbing that rock, the spotter should walk around the vehicle as much as possible and verify that the vehicle is lined up correctly. If it isn't, they need to make corrections to either the vehicle or alter the line. It might also be a good idea for the driver to get out at this point and the spotter show/explain what is going to happen. When it is time to go, the driver should be paying attention to the spotter and the spotter to the vehicle. Using hand signals or verbal commands, the spotter should have said something to the effect of, "gently give gas, your left front tire is going to come up first, when its up I want you to break hard, so watch for my signal to break..." Bottom line, the newer the driver, the better the spotter needs to be, and the more communication you need. The spotter could have also told you about using the starter to get up on the rock. Also, just because someone can drive their rig over it, doesn't mean that they can spot for you.
Hope that helps somewhat.
Now, I have two new points to add.
1. Your idea of tipipng the gas pedal is probably not my idea. REAL EASY on the skinny pedal. Its a practice thing. If it does stall out, don't worry, let it stall out. Then hold down on the brake, leave it in gear, (1st gear, 4 lo) and crank it back up, while slowly letting out on the break. What you are doing is using the starter to pull you forward and the break to control the speed. If you do it too much, it will eventually have a negative effect on the starter, but eventually you will get a feel for that pesky skinny pedal on the right.
2. Get a better spotter. "Okay, come on up" is what I think he said. Wow, you could have done without his help. The spotter is the one driving the vehicle, the driver is no more than a remote control. Granted, the video didn't show what happened prior to the attempt, but what should happen, especially with an unexperienced driver, is that they should walk the line with the driver, explaining how they expect the attack on the obstacle to go. Then, prior to, in this case, climbing that rock, the spotter should walk around the vehicle as much as possible and verify that the vehicle is lined up correctly. If it isn't, they need to make corrections to either the vehicle or alter the line. It might also be a good idea for the driver to get out at this point and the spotter show/explain what is going to happen. When it is time to go, the driver should be paying attention to the spotter and the spotter to the vehicle. Using hand signals or verbal commands, the spotter should have said something to the effect of, "gently give gas, your left front tire is going to come up first, when its up I want you to break hard, so watch for my signal to break..." Bottom line, the newer the driver, the better the spotter needs to be, and the more communication you need. The spotter could have also told you about using the starter to get up on the rock. Also, just because someone can drive their rig over it, doesn't mean that they can spot for you.
Hope that helps somewhat.
#13
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1. REAL EASY on the skinny pedal. Its a practice thing. If it does stall out, don't worry, let it stall out. Then hold down on the brake, leave it in gear, (1st gear, 4 lo) and crank it back up, while slowly letting out on the break. What you are doing is using the starter to pull you forward and the break to control the speed. If you do it too much, it will eventually have a negative effect on the starter, but eventually you will get a feel for that pesky skinny pedal on the right.
Hope that helps somewhat.
Hope that helps somewhat.
Thank you so much for your suggestion. I will practice this skill this weekend. But I am
not sure I understand this "starter pull up" tip completely.
I assume this process goes like this
Vehicle stops before rock, engine is off
right foot holds the brake pedal down
switch into first gear
left foot away from clutch pedal
start the engine
slowly lift the right foot to release the brake pedal gently
Am I correct in this process?
If so, since the engine is running and clutch is engaged, why do you say
it is the starter, not the engine pulls the vehicle forward?
#14
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Everyone said what you need. I also think the spotter was not right in this case. Again, we did not see what it looked like at the start (as mentioned), but you ended up with two rocks under your diff. I think the line they choose for you was incorrect to start with based on you being new at this. I think someone mentioned that it looks like you (the spotter really) should had you raise your driver side tire over the higher rock to keep things out of the way. Or had you go around that one large rock that got your side, where you need the rock sliders. Just my
#15
Well, I kind of have to disagree with most of the responses. I dont think you NEED gears, lockers, etc for an "obstacle" like what you were trying to go over... but they do make it MUCH easier to accomplish what you would like.
I know PLENTY of good drivers that can make high-geared, small tires, open diffs do amazing things that better equipped rigs couldnt do. What I saw in the vid is simply that you couldnt control your vehicle precisely enough. The most effective thing you can do is practice. You will begin to feel that "trigger point" in your clutch. You will have to work your brake at the same time. Sometimes you will need to also use your e-brake. The more you do it, the more you will be able to fine tune your abilities. I dont think there is anything more valuable than seat time.
Honestly, you will be a much better wheeler in the long run by learning on a rig that is not setup "ideally." I think a lot of guys can get through challenging, technical obstacles because their rig is built to the nines... but that doesnt mean they are a really good driver. If you were driving a sweet crawler buggy you would have made it over that little rock just fine. But, does that mean you are a good driver? Nope. Practice. You will get it dialed in, and then as you upgrade your rig, you will be even better off for it...
Just my .02!
I know PLENTY of good drivers that can make high-geared, small tires, open diffs do amazing things that better equipped rigs couldnt do. What I saw in the vid is simply that you couldnt control your vehicle precisely enough. The most effective thing you can do is practice. You will begin to feel that "trigger point" in your clutch. You will have to work your brake at the same time. Sometimes you will need to also use your e-brake. The more you do it, the more you will be able to fine tune your abilities. I dont think there is anything more valuable than seat time.
Honestly, you will be a much better wheeler in the long run by learning on a rig that is not setup "ideally." I think a lot of guys can get through challenging, technical obstacles because their rig is built to the nines... but that doesnt mean they are a really good driver. If you were driving a sweet crawler buggy you would have made it over that little rock just fine. But, does that mean you are a good driver? Nope. Practice. You will get it dialed in, and then as you upgrade your rig, you will be even better off for it...
Just my .02!
#16
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Well, I kind of have to disagree with most of the responses. I dont think you NEED gears, lockers, etc for an "obstacle" like what you were trying to go over... but they do make it MUCH easier to accomplish what you would like.
I know PLENTY of good drivers that can make high-geared, small tires, open diffs do amazing things that better equipped rigs couldnt do. What I saw in the vid is simply that you couldnt control your vehicle precisely enough. The most effective thing you can do is practice. You will begin to feel that "trigger point" in your clutch. You will have to work your brake at the same time. Sometimes you will need to also use your e-brake. The more you do it, the more you will be able to fine tune your abilities. I dont think there is anything more valuable than seat time.
Honestly, you will be a much better wheeler in the long run by learning on a rig that is not setup "ideally." I think a lot of guys can get through challenging, technical obstacles because their rig is built to the nines... but that doesnt mean they are a really good driver. If you were driving a sweet crawler buggy you would have made it over that little rock just fine. But, does that mean you are a good driver? Nope. Practice. You will get it dialed in, and then as you upgrade your rig, you will be even better off for it...
Just my .02!
I know PLENTY of good drivers that can make high-geared, small tires, open diffs do amazing things that better equipped rigs couldnt do. What I saw in the vid is simply that you couldnt control your vehicle precisely enough. The most effective thing you can do is practice. You will begin to feel that "trigger point" in your clutch. You will have to work your brake at the same time. Sometimes you will need to also use your e-brake. The more you do it, the more you will be able to fine tune your abilities. I dont think there is anything more valuable than seat time.
Honestly, you will be a much better wheeler in the long run by learning on a rig that is not setup "ideally." I think a lot of guys can get through challenging, technical obstacles because their rig is built to the nines... but that doesnt mean they are a really good driver. If you were driving a sweet crawler buggy you would have made it over that little rock just fine. But, does that mean you are a good driver? Nope. Practice. You will get it dialed in, and then as you upgrade your rig, you will be even better off for it...
Just my .02!
Thank you for your good point.
With manual transmission, how can I control brake while starting vehicle? At this moment
the left foot is on clutch and right one on gas. Do I have to do toe-heel work? If so, it is
quite difficult since gas pedal is much lower than brake pedal
#17
Well, I kind of have to disagree with most of the responses. I dont think you NEED gears, lockers, etc for an "obstacle" like what you were trying to go over... but they do make it MUCH easier to accomplish what you would like.
I know PLENTY of good drivers that can make high-geared, small tires, open diffs do amazing things that better equipped rigs couldnt do. What I saw in the vid is simply that you couldnt control your vehicle precisely enough. The most effective thing you can do is practice. You will begin to feel that "trigger point" in your clutch. You will have to work your brake at the same time. Sometimes you will need to also use your e-brake. The more you do it, the more you will be able to fine tune your abilities. I dont think there is anything more valuable than seat time.
Honestly, you will be a much better wheeler in the long run by learning on a rig that is not setup "ideally." I think a lot of guys can get through challenging, technical obstacles because their rig is built to the nines... but that doesnt mean they are a really good driver. If you were driving a sweet crawler buggy you would have made it over that little rock just fine. But, does that mean you are a good driver? Nope. Practice. You will get it dialed in, and then as you upgrade your rig, you will be even better off for it...
Just my .02!
I know PLENTY of good drivers that can make high-geared, small tires, open diffs do amazing things that better equipped rigs couldnt do. What I saw in the vid is simply that you couldnt control your vehicle precisely enough. The most effective thing you can do is practice. You will begin to feel that "trigger point" in your clutch. You will have to work your brake at the same time. Sometimes you will need to also use your e-brake. The more you do it, the more you will be able to fine tune your abilities. I dont think there is anything more valuable than seat time.
Honestly, you will be a much better wheeler in the long run by learning on a rig that is not setup "ideally." I think a lot of guys can get through challenging, technical obstacles because their rig is built to the nines... but that doesnt mean they are a really good driver. If you were driving a sweet crawler buggy you would have made it over that little rock just fine. But, does that mean you are a good driver? Nope. Practice. You will get it dialed in, and then as you upgrade your rig, you will be even better off for it...
Just my .02!
I agree, but not with bigs rocks like in the video
Come on!
Anyway, the OP needs sliders
#18
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RubiJK:
Thank you for your good point.
With manual transmission, how can I control brake while starting vehicle? At this moment
the left foot is on clutch and right one on gas. Do I have to do toe-heel work? If so, it is
quite difficult since gas pedal is much lower than brake pedal
Thank you for your good point.
With manual transmission, how can I control brake while starting vehicle? At this moment
the left foot is on clutch and right one on gas. Do I have to do toe-heel work? If so, it is
quite difficult since gas pedal is much lower than brake pedal
Therefore, starting with the vehicle OFF, DO NOT press the clutch, and turn the key. As long as you are in 4Lo, the Jeep should start, and immediately lurch forward by the power of the starter.
Now, when I was wheeling my stock JK, I was very surprised by the amount of brake I could use to control my speed in either the rocks or on downhill sections. In other words, 4Lo, 1st gear, crawling, I was able to press the brake quite hard to slow myself down, without the engine stalling out. I'm sure this caused some wear on the brakes, but whatever, brakes are cheap.
The 4Lo, no clutch start is also a good thing to know when you stall out with the tranny submerged in water. You don't want to engage/disengage the clutch, dirt will get in there, and you'll need a new clutch.
#19
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Hi, Red:
Thank you so much for your suggestion. I will practice this skill this weekend. But I am
not sure I understand this "starter pull up" tip completely.
I assume this process goes like this
Vehicle stops before rock, engine is off
right foot holds the brake pedal down
switch into first gear
left foot away from clutch pedal
start the engine
slowly lift the right foot to release the brake pedal gently
Am I correct in this process?
If so, since the engine is running and clutch is engaged, why do you say
it is the starter, not the engine pulls the vehicle forward?
Thank you so much for your suggestion. I will practice this skill this weekend. But I am
not sure I understand this "starter pull up" tip completely.
I assume this process goes like this
Vehicle stops before rock, engine is off
right foot holds the brake pedal down
switch into first gear
left foot away from clutch pedal
start the engine
slowly lift the right foot to release the brake pedal gently
Am I correct in this process?
If so, since the engine is running and clutch is engaged, why do you say
it is the starter, not the engine pulls the vehicle forward?
I know this wasn't the step by step procedure that you were hoping for, but be best thing I can tell you to do is to go out to a parking lot and pull up to one of those parking abutments. Turn off the truck, (it should be in 4 lo and in gear) and then crank the starter. Keep a foot over the break or lightly on the break (its a feeling thing) to maintain control of the vehicle. Start the truck - leaving the gas pedal alone, and see what happens. Make sure there is no car or wall or anything in front of you, because you will go forward.
One more tip, and probably one too many. You can learn to heel toe so that you can work all three pedals at the same time. Not a bad skill to learn. But, in all reality, once you get the truck going, you don't so much need the clutch anymore. Keep one foot on the gas and one on the break. You can apply both at the same time. Use the gas to keep the engine running and the break to control speed. It takes some getting used to and not a good thing to practice on the street. It might help with the learning to go easy on the gas, cause that pedal is, admittedly a bit finicky and the break a bit more user friendly. It will also help you from applying too much gas and slamming into things because you lost control after getting up onto the obstacle.
#20
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not to be mean man but i dont think you really had any business being there.
that trail looks to be alot tougher than your jeep can take especially since you dont have sliders.
i would try to do alittle bit more mods before attempting something like that in your jeep
i would have warned you and reccomended you not take that trail if you were with me because i dont like seeing things get torn up
just my 2 cents
that trail looks to be alot tougher than your jeep can take especially since you dont have sliders.
i would try to do alittle bit more mods before attempting something like that in your jeep
i would have warned you and reccomended you not take that trail if you were with me because i dont like seeing things get torn up
just my 2 cents