Offroading with my 6 Speed
I would go 4.88 just to get it back to just better than stock. With the 6spd 5.13 would be too much. If I had an auto, I'd go 5.13.
I'm not doing either for the moment. While my Jeep is my DD, I only put 10 miles on her per day. If I had more highway miles, it would be more of a priority.
keep in mind that I'm up a 7500 ft elevation....so the engine is even more of a dog.
I'm not doing either for the moment. While my Jeep is my DD, I only put 10 miles on her per day. If I had more highway miles, it would be more of a priority.
keep in mind that I'm up a 7500 ft elevation....so the engine is even more of a dog.
So in a nutshell I highly recommend a long-term approach for gears because they are expensive to do; there's a chart here somewhere for gears and that will let you get an idea about what gears you should do. But if you go with 33's I would bet that you will go 35's after that so my guess would be 4.56 or 4.88's.
Gotta add my two cents worth. I have had my '09 Rubi since Feb. and didn't think too much about the hill holding feature. Many of my higher end cars over the years had this feature and it is very unobtrusive but always "on". I live in a town with some surprisingly steep hills for a midwest burg. My Rubi's hill assist seems to "know" when the hill "requires" it's "assist" i.e. when the hill is steep the hill assist works when it's just a small incline it isn't there. It does not matter how hard I push on the brake but I have recreated this over and over. Like the thermos "...how do it know?"

Yours isn't broke, the hill start assist came out on th 09 but you may have something better or at least as good. That is the ability to start with the clutch out when in 4lo. I know it's on the Rubicon, not sure if it's on the X. The problem you have rolling back is because you put the clutch in on a uphill climb. Next time try it this way. Your in 4lo first gear and your
crawling up hill over some good size rocks and you need to stop (for what ever reason). Don't use your brake or clutch, just turn the ignition off, you will stop immediately and the engine will hold you steady. When your ready to go forward again just start the engine (no clutch) and you will start crawling again in total control. This works fantastically with the 6pd rubicon because of the great crawl ration of 65 to 1. Should work pretty good with the X also as your crawl ration is around 44 to 1. In the same situation as above but your need to stop is because you need to back up and try another line, try it this way. When you need to stop shut off the key. Put your right foot on the brake pedal and push in the clutch
with your left foot. Put it in reverse, let the cluth out and take the pressure off the brake while still keeping your foot over the pedal. Now hit the key, your engine will start and you will go backwards slowly and in control. When you need to stop to change direction again shut the key off and reverse the procedure. Try it you'll like it.

Didn't know all that. Thanks for posting
Lot of great stuff here...
It was mentioned not to get too aggressive with the skinny pedal, but also don't be afraid of it.
The JK has electronis throttle control in 4lo, meaning that the sensativity is reduced. This keeps a bumpy road from screwing up your throttle control creating a bunch of jerking, and it also makes it easier to use the throttle in the rocks. You will learn that "feathering" the throttle is much eaier in the JK than in the TJ because of this. You will learn when to give more, and how much throttle to give to reduce stalling. I even power brake sometimes to keep better control.
Another tip, I have used my hand brake up just a few clicks to give some drag on really big rocks to keep it from crashing down once the boulder is cleared. Gives it a nicer "settling" feel rather than a big crash.
It was mentioned not to get too aggressive with the skinny pedal, but also don't be afraid of it.
The JK has electronis throttle control in 4lo, meaning that the sensativity is reduced. This keeps a bumpy road from screwing up your throttle control creating a bunch of jerking, and it also makes it easier to use the throttle in the rocks. You will learn that "feathering" the throttle is much eaier in the JK than in the TJ because of this. You will learn when to give more, and how much throttle to give to reduce stalling. I even power brake sometimes to keep better control.
Another tip, I have used my hand brake up just a few clicks to give some drag on really big rocks to keep it from crashing down once the boulder is cleared. Gives it a nicer "settling" feel rather than a big crash.
My 2 pennies is: Do not dis-engage the clutch when crossing water! If you stall it in a water crossing (did that), under no circumstances should you depress the clutch pedal. That allows the water to go between the plates and apparently it'll kill the clutch. Just crank it over and go!
I was lucky enough to have read this here in the forums last summer so I saved my clutch.
I was lucky enough to have read this here in the forums last summer so I saved my clutch.
I drive a manual JK Rubicon Unlimited. It took me awhile to get used to 4-Lo and laying off the clutch... you need to unlearn all those clutch instincts. The smell of your clutch burning is a real inspiration.
The first time I shifted into first gear and 4-Low and let out the clutch, the Jeep lurched forward abruptly, I had no idea what was going on! The gearing is so short, you barely move 2 feet before shifting into 2nd. I try not to use 1st in 4-low anymore unless on a serious incline or rock.
The first time I shifted into first gear and 4-Low and let out the clutch, the Jeep lurched forward abruptly, I had no idea what was going on! The gearing is so short, you barely move 2 feet before shifting into 2nd. I try not to use 1st in 4-low anymore unless on a serious incline or rock.


