Rubicon and Mud?
So what are the best techniques for wheeling in Mud? Completely stock 4dr rubicon in regards to suspension and tires.
Lower Tire Pressure?
Lo or Hi?
If in low 2nd or 3rd gear? I figure you need to wheel at a faster pace to keep momentum.
Disconnected?
Lock both axels in or just rear?
Going to a gathering of friends called "Redneck Weekend". Everybody brings all the guns they got and everybody shoots whatever and my buddy has cleared some terrain for Ol'Yeller. Everbody is super excited to see the rubi flex and climb shit. I just want to make sure I give them the best show possible because there are atleast two who are on the fence on joing the jeep club.
Lower Tire Pressure?
Lo or Hi?
If in low 2nd or 3rd gear? I figure you need to wheel at a faster pace to keep momentum.
Disconnected?
Lock both axels in or just rear?
Going to a gathering of friends called "Redneck Weekend". Everybody brings all the guns they got and everybody shoots whatever and my buddy has cleared some terrain for Ol'Yeller. Everbody is super excited to see the rubi flex and climb shit. I just want to make sure I give them the best show possible because there are atleast two who are on the fence on joing the jeep club.
It depends on what's under the mud. If there are rocks under there you don't want to go blasting through.
But overall, keep it in 4LO. If you're a stick, do NOT step on the clutch while in deep mud or water or you'll suck every up into the clutch and end your day quickly, and possibly end ur clutch. If u need to shift do so without the clutch. If u need to back up and try again mid way, stall it then select the needed gear, start it in gear and go (something u can only do in 4LO, another reason to be in LO).
Be prepared the clean out your radiator on the trail if u begin overheating.
Hook up recovery gear BEFORE u head in. Tow strap ready, winch controller plugged in, etc.
did I forget anything ?
But overall, keep it in 4LO. If you're a stick, do NOT step on the clutch while in deep mud or water or you'll suck every up into the clutch and end your day quickly, and possibly end ur clutch. If u need to shift do so without the clutch. If u need to back up and try again mid way, stall it then select the needed gear, start it in gear and go (something u can only do in 4LO, another reason to be in LO).
Be prepared the clean out your radiator on the trail if u begin overheating.
Hook up recovery gear BEFORE u head in. Tow strap ready, winch controller plugged in, etc.
did I forget anything ?
Yes I am manual and good point. I read that a couple months ago and forgot about using the clutch in deep mud. Good reminder.
No rocks under the mud. Reason I thought about locking rear is I believe there is a pretty sharp curve right after and incline so didn't want to get bound up and have to stop. I guess I will give it a try locked rear only and lock in fronts as needed.
Yes I am putting straps on front and back before I dive in.
Any other thoughts on tire pressure?
No rocks under the mud. Reason I thought about locking rear is I believe there is a pretty sharp curve right after and incline so didn't want to get bound up and have to stop. I guess I will give it a try locked rear only and lock in fronts as needed.
Yes I am putting straps on front and back before I dive in.
Any other thoughts on tire pressure?
Drop your tire pressure, I usually drop mine to the mid to upper teens. This will allow the tires to have a wider footprint (ie. less ground pressure) without worrying about popping the tire off the wheel.
yes air down to normal off roading psi. on stock rubi tires I like to stay around 18 to 20. As low as 16 if no rock crawling is required. I have found that 32 inch tires on 17 inch rims don't like to air down to low beyond 20 without risking cutting side walls on the rocks, ask me how I know.
whenever I'm in mud I lock front and rear. you bought the rubi, lock 'em if u got 'em.
whenever I'm in mud I lock front and rear. you bought the rubi, lock 'em if u got 'em.
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front lockers for the most part should only be used for small periods of time when the front tires are straight and you are climbing something at a decent angle. you are asking for trouble if you are trying to turn sharply with your front locked. air your tires down to atleast 15 if not lower and use that to your advantage... if you are mudding sidewall cuts wont be an issue. pick a gear to stick with it...on a stock rubi 4lo 2-3 gear would probably be best. i understand the concept 'if you have em use em' but i wouldnt advise a front locker when mudding around a 'sharp curve' at a decent speed.
Last edited by geebee; Nov 13, 2010 at 08:10 AM.
all good information and tips. the only thing I've noticed is that it's easier to turn off the locker when you don't want it send it is to get it activated when you need it. either way I'd agree about not having the front locked while making type turns. of course it's not that big a deal if you're in slippery mud
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