JK_11

i just finished doing the breather extention mod and it was pretty simple. like stated above the transfer case line is in a difficult spot even took me a while to find it but once i got the line off and the new one on it was simple. for the rear diff i ran mine to the drivers side tail light insted of the pass. just for the fact that the drivers side only had that foam piece cvering the opening and on the pass. side there was a plastic cover that would have required some cutting. all in all it was easy and it took about 17' of 5/16 fuel line.

firemarshal

Excellent! I am never "planning" on submerging it, but I just want to be as prepared as possible if I drop into a hole that was a little deeper than I thought. One more question and I will stop hijacking Is there a way to better seal the cabin to prevent water from coming in? Thanks for the replies so far

holy_crap

I was told that water and mud gets in and can damage some components. I had a TJ that got the entire clutch assembly practically rebuilt. I bought the Jeep used, and I did press the clutch once to downshift when I went into a flooded roadway. Six months later, the clutch was jammed and the pedal would not go in. $$$ The mechanic showed me caked up mud and corroded parts which were apparently the cause.

JK_11

Hmm good to know. But how are you supposed to shift without pressing the clutch?

RevyJKU08

Select 4LO before you go thru the mud or water. You won't need to depress the clutch to start. If you stall in the water or mud, Select your gear (1st/2nd or Reverse) without depressing the clutch and turn the key over it will jump start and start crawling without needing the clutch. Try it on a dirt road.

Battlefrog

As triplejeep said, try it on the road first. You will be surprised on how it jumps when it turns on. Better to practice your timing before you get in the water. Also, if you didn't already know this, your ESP automatically turns off in 4LO, so that won't be an issue.

Practice first because you don't want to be hitting high RPM's or speeds for any moderate amounts time while in 4LO if it can be avoided, and your first instinct while in a decent hole is to hit the gas to get out....

Hope this helps and if i'm wrong, somebody please chime in because then i've been doing sometihing wrong....

Battlefrog

I just did this a few minutes ago, hope it helps....

9/32 vaccum hose with 3/8 vaccum connector. I added on without replacing factory hose. Zip tied it to E-brake line and frame and ran it up through frame into rear driver tail light so it would not catch on anything...

The connector is up in frame and I sealed connectors (aftermarket/factory breather) with electrical tape just for precautions...

I also left about a 1 1/2 feet of flex or more, just in case I need to modify it at some point...

sa29560

I feel for a tranny that gets gummed up like that. Water and dirt ruin the synthetics ability to perform correctly. I was hitting some deep crossings last week and was relieved when my fluids were still of good color when I replaced them all this week. Those breather tube extensions are well worth it, and very easy to do.

I would have passed out if I saw foamy chunk matter draining out of my trans!!! I still want a snorkel too

Battlefrog

I relocated front and rear diff, but not sure if transfer case is worth doing... The breather is attached to the back of engine block about 3/4 of the way up ( I believe it's trans breather). Where it sits should be fine. If you get that submerged, your now sitting in water that's about half to 3/4 of the way up your door. Is it worth it ?

RevyJKU08

I just ran completely new line for the Transfer Case. As I could not get my hands up against the firewall. I just ran the new line close to the stock line location but up to the height of the front cowl. I just clipped the stock transfer case breather line as short as I could and left the line I could not pull out.