KevinMac

[QUOTE=TacomanBJK12;4072302]Have you thought about making one of these? I did and its simplified how I power my lights. Im sure it would help you out.

Ooooh, that's pretty sexy. Now I need to do some poking around! Great idea!

TacomanBJK12

[QUOTE=KevinMac;4072420]mostly got all the parts from amazon in total i maybe spent about 50 making it cant really remember but thats a nice round number lol

KevinMac

My new Factor 55 ProLink thimble arrived today. This was quite possibly the fastest modification, ever! Release the snap ring and remove the pin. Slide the pin through the winch cable loop and back into the thimble. Re-insert the snap ring, done! 45 seconds tops, assuming you own snap ring pliers, which I do!



- Costs:
* Factory 55 Loaded Thimble - $133

KevinMac

I had been following an idea from a thread for quite a while that I had wanted to try but had never gotten around to it, until today! The idea was adding LED's to the sound bar for additonal interior lighting. The spin I wanted to put on it was to use it as sort of a night light for when I am camping in the rear of my JKU. I didn't want bright white lights, I wanted red so I could keep my night vision. I also didn't want them to come on with the dome lamp, I wanted to be able to reach up and operate them independent of any of the dome lighting.

The thread I got the idea from is here: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-e...lights-278487/

I started by removing my dome light and both of the soundbar speakers. I then drilled 3 holes. The center hole is 13/16" and is for the switch. The outer holes are 7/16" and each hold an LED.



I then did a bit of simple wiring to tie the LED's to the switch. Finally, I then tied the switch into the dome lamp circuit. Ground to black and positive to yellow with black stripe. This was a simple idea that took about 2 hours start to finish and cost under $20. Great idea Grand Umpah!





I ordered the parts from SuperBrightLEDs.com, the part numbers and costs follow:

- Costs:
* Switch: RRS-SP - $1.95
* LED: 12B-R-B - $4.95 each

KevinMac

Ok, with the rear axle assembly pretty much wrapped up, I'm moving my attention to preparing the front axle for installation. I've got it up on jack stands and tore the stock diff cover off of it. I liked the AEV cover I put on the rear so much that I bought the same for the front! Once again, I used a Lube Locker gasket, just to keep it simple!





I also went ahead and starting tacking up the Teraflex LCA skids. I will wait until it is on the Jeep before I go ahead and completely buzz them on, that way the Nitro sleeves go in a bit easier!



Next up, I will start tacking up the C gussets. After that, I just need a few warm days to do the swap!

- Costs:
* AEV differential cover - $200
* Lube Locker gasket - $22

KevinMac

Ok, the upper and lower C Gussets are in. The downside, I forgot to take photos except for when I was just starting to tack a lower. Oh well, no worries!



I can say the lowers matched up to the factory C well, no metal work needed. The uppers, not so much. I needed to do a bit of cutting and grinding to get them to a state where gap to the C was weldable.

Since I still have the axle out and it's still easy to work on, I think I've made the decision to just go ahead and replace the ball joints now. It saves the hassle of doing it later when it's under the Jeep. So, stay tuned for that!

Oh yeah, I still have issues with drinking while surfing eBay so I now also have a leather console armrest from a C.O.D. JKU. Guess I need to find the matching leather seats too! Just to make myself feel better I looked up the retail cost, $380!!! Glad I payed no where near that!



- The stock one is on the left.


- Costs:
* Leather C.O.D. Console Lid - $56

Sturgeon12

wow... helluva build you have going on! nice job. Can I ask what brand C gussetts you went with?

Thanks!

KevinMac

Thank you much!

The gussets were from Ace.

KevinMac

As I wait for the delivery of my new Teraflex ball joints, I've turned my attention to the Rubi transfer case swap!

In my evaluation of the case I purchased, I found 3 major issues. Can you spot them??



1) One of the 6 mounting studs is bent to all hell.
2) The connector on the selector sensor is broken.
3) The front and rear yoke nuts are missing!!! Really Motech, no yoke nuts??

So I took a trip to my dealer and got the parts I needed. It didn't take long to install them but it more of a nuisance.



While I was at it, I also drained it and filled it up with fresh ATF+4. I then turned to tearing the old case out. This is my first go at this so it probably took me about an hour and a half. 6 nuts hold the case to the transmission and a few are very difficult to get to. On the advice of others, I bought a ratcheting wrench and it worked AMAZINGLY!!! This is the guy you are looking for next time you are at Lowe's. And yes, get the version with the swivel head, it came in handy.



Outside of that, it was pretty straightforward. You do need to drop the crossmember and obviously, pull the driveshafts. Out with the old...



...and in with the new!



Pending good weather tomorrow or the day after, I will put the new one in. Wish me luck!!

- Costs:
* Mounting Stud - $3
* Yoke Nuts - $26 ($13 ea.)
* ATF+4 - $14 ($7 ea.)

Invest2m4

Motech doesn't send it with yoke nuts. You're supposed to swap your yokes and nuts from your current case.

Bent stud stinks, but an easy fix.

And you re-use your t-case sensor as well. Btw, don't install the front yoke until the t-case is in and you have the engagement lever reattached. The Rubi case is slightly different and you won't be able to get it bolted on with the yoke on.