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Line-X'ed Interior 07 2-dr

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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 04:05 PM
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Default Line-X'ed Interior 07 2-dr

So, I'm finally doing it - Getting my tub Line-X'ed. It's nothing new for this forum (seeing other JK's on this forum is what inspired me to do it) but I finally began the laborious task of stripping down the interior today.

It goes in the shop next Wednesday (10/13)

I decided to do the majority of the prep work myself, because the Line-X shop in Erie, PA quoted me $450 base price if I bring it to them stripped. I'm sure the final total will be in the ballpark of $550, but hey, it's not a bad deal.

I've attached some pics from today's stripping session.

Let me just say one thing - I HATE caulking. It looks terrible. I'm stripping it out so I can have a nice clean Line-X'ed JK like Jeff of Omaha's. See gallery here.

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Last edited by amt97; Oct 9, 2010 at 06:16 PM.
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 04:12 PM
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Well your on the right start, good luck and keep us posted
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 06:20 PM
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A few more pics that didn't upload earlier. I'm also getting the seat brackets Line-X'ed because on both the driver's and passenger's side, they are bubbling and have cracked on the edges due to rust. I took apart the passenger's seat today and took pics ... If anyone needs them to see how to take them apart, let me know!

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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 09:08 PM
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What technique you using to remove all of the heat shield sound barrier caulking on he back floor and foot wells ???
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 11:22 PM
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Default What about the tape?

What are you going to do with the tape covering the oval hole?

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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by dmhines
What technique you using to remove all of the heat shield sound barrier caulking on he back floor and foot wells ???
Wood chisel and hammer to get the big stuff, and then a 3M paint stripper/sander drill attachment to get off the remains. It's down to the bare metal. My caulking was very hard and cracking, it wasn't soft and pliable. I don't know how anyone got it "clean" down to the primer. Seemed impossible for mine. The stripper/sander works quickly and just strips off the paint and primer and doesn't gouge or damage the metal underneath.
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by asjackman
What are you going to do with the tape covering the oval hole?

From what I've been told by forum member Jeff from Omaha, they just spray the Line-X right over that and it's hard and you can't punch through it or anything.

The guy at the shop I'm taking it to said it wouldn't be a problem. I'll definitely show my "after" pics. I'm about 50% done with the teardown at this point. Will finish stripping the rest down when I get up to Erie on Tuesday afternoon.
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by amt97
From what I've been told by forum member Jeff from Omaha, they just spray the Line-X right over that and it's hard and you can't punch through it or anything.

The guy at the shop I'm taking it to said it wouldn't be a problem. I'll definitely show my "after" pics. I'm about 50% done with the teardown at this point. Will finish stripping the rest down when I get up to Erie on Tuesday afternoon.
Thanks for the reply. I already took the tape off and was considering welding a cover over it. Anyone see any cons of welding a plate over it?
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 04:43 AM
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I have the carpets out of my JK ... there is no tape over those holes on mine ... I just look in there and see the expandable sound deadener that was pumped in there at the factory.
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by dmhines
I have the carpets out of my JK ... there is no tape over those holes on mine ... I just look in there and see the expandable sound deadener that was pumped in there at the factory.
Same here I just sprayed it with bedliner also to match.
I never thought about covering it up.
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