Welding 101
I'll check out the youtube videos - thanks for the idea. Anything to particularly look for when buying used welding equipment? Is it better just to get a new one?
I like the idea of just diving in - its how I learned all my auto maintenance skills. That's saved me a lot of time and money. Welding seems like it will open up a whole new aspect to my jeep habit - oh no - there goes that little jeep voice again.
I like the idea of just diving in - its how I learned all my auto maintenance skills. That's saved me a lot of time and money. Welding seems like it will open up a whole new aspect to my jeep habit - oh no - there goes that little jeep voice again.
Just take your time, stick to the brand names and wait for the right deal. I purchased a Lincoln AC/DC with helmet and 50 ft leads for $100 on Craigslist. It sat un-used in a barn for a long time. When her spouse passed she sold it to me for cheap. It works like new.
Ill give my 2 cents.
1. Don't buy a stick welder if your going to be using it to weld areas with sensitivity to heat, body panels, around ball joints, axle tubes. Stick welding (or SMAW/shield metal arc welding has a high HAZ (heat affected zone) as compared to MIG/TIG, because they both use an inert gas as a flux which also helps cool the weld area.
2. The thicknesses that are listed on a manufactures website that a machine can weld, are rated for a single pass. So thicker material is possible with multiple passes. I have a MAC tools 140 amp machine which is a re-badged Millermatic 140 which is also a Hobart handler 140 ( the Hobart looses the gas purge option, don`t worry about it)
3. I would stay away from used equipment, unless you are willing to spend the money to take it to a welder repair shop for a diagnostic, but by that time you can buy a new welder for the price of a used welder and diagnostic.
You can pick up the Hobart handler for 600 bucks and then rent a bottle of C25. And yes it will weld the gussets. However, I would suggest taking a class in GMAW ( Gas metal arc welding another name for MIG) and learn common weld faults such as undercut, notch effect, and porosity, as these will be what causes a weld to fail, and not the machine.
1. Don't buy a stick welder if your going to be using it to weld areas with sensitivity to heat, body panels, around ball joints, axle tubes. Stick welding (or SMAW/shield metal arc welding has a high HAZ (heat affected zone) as compared to MIG/TIG, because they both use an inert gas as a flux which also helps cool the weld area.
2. The thicknesses that are listed on a manufactures website that a machine can weld, are rated for a single pass. So thicker material is possible with multiple passes. I have a MAC tools 140 amp machine which is a re-badged Millermatic 140 which is also a Hobart handler 140 ( the Hobart looses the gas purge option, don`t worry about it)
3. I would stay away from used equipment, unless you are willing to spend the money to take it to a welder repair shop for a diagnostic, but by that time you can buy a new welder for the price of a used welder and diagnostic.
You can pick up the Hobart handler for 600 bucks and then rent a bottle of C25. And yes it will weld the gussets. However, I would suggest taking a class in GMAW ( Gas metal arc welding another name for MIG) and learn common weld faults such as undercut, notch effect, and porosity, as these will be what causes a weld to fail, and not the machine.
Also I buy all my stuff from Air Liquide, You will have one in Van, just look in the yellow pages. Their list prices are always high for cash customers, but they will always beat Canadian tire, princess ETC. And they rent the bottles there and ell the gas at the same time and have people on staff who can give you better advice then 12 year olds at CT.
I bought a solid 220V 225amp AC buzz box from Craigslist for $150. It does steel like a champ. I didn't get a MIG because I wanted something that was completely reliable, and I wanted the practice with arc.
Go for 220V, unless you really can't afford it. It's nice to have when you need it, otherwise you will be making multiple passes and grinding the edges of your joints to get good penetration.
Go for 220V, unless you really can't afford it. It's nice to have when you need it, otherwise you will be making multiple passes and grinding the edges of your joints to get good penetration.
I would go with a MIG over a stick welder. Way more user friendly and stick just isn't used much for automotive fab anymore.
110V will work okay, but not great. Experienced welders can get them to work pretty well even on 1/4".
220V welders work WAY better though.
My recommendation, if you have 220V in your garage, go with something like a Millermatic 180.
110V will work okay, but not great. Experienced welders can get them to work pretty well even on 1/4".
220V welders work WAY better though.
My recommendation, if you have 220V in your garage, go with something like a Millermatic 180.
Saving up for a Hobart Handler 140 myself....
I've spent a lot of time going over the options, pros and cons, 110 vs. 220, etc.... and the Hobart 140 is going to be the best bang for the buck considering %80 of all the projects for the Jeep don't necessarily require anything thicker than 1/4", usually less.
For a beginner 115V makes sense, the 220V systems cost a lot more and needs special hook ups for the power. You can setup the 115V system almost anywhere you're working and get the job done.
You can get a 140 on Amazon for $475
Like Inko said, its not the machine.....its the man that can screw up the welds. Highly recommend taking an intro course and practice, practice, practice.
I've spent a lot of time going over the options, pros and cons, 110 vs. 220, etc.... and the Hobart 140 is going to be the best bang for the buck considering %80 of all the projects for the Jeep don't necessarily require anything thicker than 1/4", usually less.
For a beginner 115V makes sense, the 220V systems cost a lot more and needs special hook ups for the power. You can setup the 115V system almost anywhere you're working and get the job done.
You can get a 140 on Amazon for $475
Like Inko said, its not the machine.....its the man that can screw up the welds. Highly recommend taking an intro course and practice, practice, practice.
I've heard a few remarks about not getting a used welder, does anyone have any input on a factory reconditioned welder? I just learned to weld last weekend (if you can call my gigantic glops of metal welding) and I had a blast. Made me a receiver hitch rack. I am looking to buy a welder now and I don't want to go over the top and get something more than I need. I can tell by my limited experience that I am not yet proficient enough to actually weld something vital to the performance of my Jeep, but I'm still wanting to make stuff. Sears sells factory reconditioned Hobart Handlers online for a significant price reduction.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?


