What was done to your JK this week?
Learned how to remove my rear door panel! Seemed like it was going to be a PITA at first, but as I got into it, it ended up being pretty easy.
Wheeling last weekend I took a fairly good branch to the side that put a small dent in my rear passenger door; the dent is not all that noticeable (the scratch sure is though!), but the door would no longer open from the outside. Turns out that the mechanism inside that the rod from the handle button pushes on had come off its mount (which was a small plastic tab); so the rod was pushing on the entire block instead of just the plunger. Quick easy fix, and put a dab of epoxy on that tab to hopefully keep it from popping off it like that again.

Wheeling last weekend I took a fairly good branch to the side that put a small dent in my rear passenger door; the dent is not all that noticeable (the scratch sure is though!), but the door would no longer open from the outside. Turns out that the mechanism inside that the rod from the handle button pushes on had come off its mount (which was a small plastic tab); so the rod was pushing on the entire block instead of just the plunger. Quick easy fix, and put a dab of epoxy on that tab to hopefully keep it from popping off it like that again.

Thanks. It wasn't the first set I had cut but it was much harder than the non painted to find your line. They tend to give u a glare. Happy with her so far though.
I did this a few weeks ago, but just got time to post the mod pictures. (One of the photos was in B&W - the camera was still set up from a weekend shoot, when I started the Mod). Anyway, when I moved to the 33's the factory third break light was barely visible because of the height of the spare tire, and it looked like crap. So, I needed a new option - Love the way it came out - AND - it was REALLY inexpensive to do!
LED break light purchased online (about 20 bucks)

First I had to cut down the Factory Third break light arm (again, sorry for the Black & white)

This what is left of the "arm"

Filed and smoothed the edges (be really careful here, it was REALLY sharp!)


Next: A hole had to be Drilled, that was large enough for the wires to be pushed through



This is how the arm looks when covered up by the spare

Push the Wires thru the center of the Spare

All finished up! The light was put in with an added rim of silicone (this will come right off when the spare is swapped out for a rotation, but it keeps the light in there nice and solid).
LED break light purchased online (about 20 bucks)

First I had to cut down the Factory Third break light arm (again, sorry for the Black & white)

This what is left of the "arm"

Filed and smoothed the edges (be really careful here, it was REALLY sharp!)


Next: A hole had to be Drilled, that was large enough for the wires to be pushed through



This is how the arm looks when covered up by the spare

Push the Wires thru the center of the Spare

All finished up! The light was put in with an added rim of silicone (this will come right off when the spare is swapped out for a rotation, but it keeps the light in there nice and solid).
I did this a few weeks ago, but just got time to post the mod pictures. (One of the photos was in B&W - the camera was still set up from a weekend shoot, when I started the Mod). Anyway, when I moved to the 33's the factory third break light was barely visible because of the height of the spare tire, and it looked like crap. So, I needed a new option - Love the way it came out - AND - it was REALLY inexpensive to do!
LED break light purchased online (about 20 bucks)
First I had to cut down the Factory Third break light arm (again, sorry for the Black & white)
This what is left of the "arm"
Filed and smoothed the edges (be really careful here, it was REALLY sharp!)
Next: A hole had to be Drilled, that was large enough for the wires to be pushed through
This is how the arm looks when covered up by the spare
Push the Wires thru the center of the Spare
All finished up! The light was put in with an added rim of silicone (this will come right off when the spare is swapped out for a rotation, but it keeps the light in there nice and solid).
LED break light purchased online (about 20 bucks)
First I had to cut down the Factory Third break light arm (again, sorry for the Black & white)
This what is left of the "arm"
Filed and smoothed the edges (be really careful here, it was REALLY sharp!)
Next: A hole had to be Drilled, that was large enough for the wires to be pushed through
This is how the arm looks when covered up by the spare
Push the Wires thru the center of the Spare
All finished up! The light was put in with an added rim of silicone (this will come right off when the spare is swapped out for a rotation, but it keeps the light in there nice and solid).
Sent from my NSA listening device
Not this week but this month. :-)
Started modding with 300 miles on her. She is a month old now and shaping up.
3.5 RK x-factor
RRD duel resi shocks
XRC stinger
BFH rear bumper
8,000 lbs smitty winch
T&T Customs sliders and boat sides
Custom 1350 drive shafts front and rear ( go in this Tuesday )
37" MTR K
Ballistic Jesters
Trimmed fenders
Welded some stuff :-)
Started modding with 300 miles on her. She is a month old now and shaping up.
3.5 RK x-factor
RRD duel resi shocks
XRC stinger
BFH rear bumper
8,000 lbs smitty winch
T&T Customs sliders and boat sides
Custom 1350 drive shafts front and rear ( go in this Tuesday )
37" MTR K
Ballistic Jesters
Trimmed fenders
Welded some stuff :-)
I would live to know how you cut the fenders....
KCCO
Anyone mount a machete to their roll cage? I don't want to mount to my tailgate, but a buddy got me a really nice machete combo for my birthday and I want to mount it to my roll cage. I'm thinking I will do it with zip ties and use the pouch's belt loop and possibly cut two small holes at the bottom and run another zip tie through there around the cage. Looking for ideas....


