I used the new directions and they worked great. Thanks, Brett, especially since my Jeep kept dropping dried mud bits on me as I worked underneath. The less of that I had to do, the better!

The only point of confusion I had was where the washer that's used as a spacer goes. That advisory was directly adjacent to paragraph 6, so I was trying to figure out what the purpose of putting a washer on top of the shock tube end was. Once I realized the advisory was referring to step 7 and the washer served as a space on the new bracket, everything went smooth as could be.

And, I agree with Kidjeep: It was a hoot to have a excuse to use the Sawzall.

 

Yeah, can you imagine you used to have to hold the plate up to mark and drill all the holes in the tub. Not just mud bits, but hot shards of metal raining down on you.

Please let me know about the advisory. I'm just not finding it in the instructions. I even did a search for the word "spacer" and nada.

 

Doh! I got confused. It was the advisory for the steering stabilizer directions that confused me. Must have been those roofers pounding on my house all day yesterday turned my brain to jelly!

 

I see you've changed the steering stabilizer relo kit from the one I bought. What's the reason for the change? Just curious as I noticed a little while ago that the little squeak that's been driving me crazy is coming from the shock round flat piece at the mounting point where it is rubbing on the relo bracket. No biggie, just curious...

 

The driver for the change, was cost. Those chromoly studs killed me. When I went from making them in my garage to having them manufactured, it opened the door to new design ideas. I think the new one is stronger and it is made of stainless steel. This is the first that I've heard of anybody having a problem with the original design.

This displays a problem with me wanting to improve my designs as improvements present themselves. I've decided to set up a trade in program. I'm going to offer new versions of products, at discounted prices to people who have bought before. I don't have all the details yet, but if you want the new bracket I'll currently offer them at 50% off plus shipping of $7. You'll need your original factory steering stabilizer nut and bolt (or need to buy a new one) for this bracket to work. These brackets are back ordered till the first week of June though.

PM or email me, if interested.

 

That makes much more sense. I'll check out the instructions and make any necessary changes.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

I guess I received one of the new ss brackets today. Easy install took me all of 30 minutes! Great design. Great customer service. Thank you and keep up the good work!

 

Well I need both, the new SS bracket and the Evap kit, but looks like 2nd week of June till they are available.

Brett I called left a msg this morning, my name is Brett as well, I'm curious if I should order now before the next crazy rush, just didn't want to pay shipping on two separate items.

 

Since Woods is a well known Sponsor on this site I am not going into all the details. His kit is complete and highly recommend him for the source of your parts. This installation took approx 2-3 hours (could go faster if you dont have kids ). I recommend removing the parts and cleaning them first to remove any road grime, mud, clay, etc. Having a dremel or equivalent made this job cake. If you do not have a decent set of tools, cutting tools, time, paint, patience etc. Then look for some help or pay to have it done.

The reason I bought the kit was due to trail damage. I came over a large over hang, up a steep hill, then I saw the look on my buddies face! Man you broke something man. I knew exactly what it was when he said it...






NOW ONTO THE INSTALL.



Just getting started.


Adapter plate before painting and mounting.


Cutting the factory mount is easy with a metal cutting disc.


After the Cut I painted the bare metal on the plate and the holes I drilled.


Black semi-gloss, I painted the entire assembly, Woods directions say to just paint the plate but I decided it would look better as one entire unit.


Cut holes in the storage area sound dampening material to recess the bolts and keep the floor flat.


Installed and tightened. It helps during this part to have a friend hold the bolts with a wrench while you tighten everything up from the bottom.


In its new home its just above the rear axle, Very nice and cozy up there. Should have come this way stock but now it looks as if it did. I painted all the holes on the Jeep to keep the body from rusting before I mounted it.


Factory looking finish,safe, and out of the way.


In conclusion, the directions were so good my 22 month old knew what to hand me as far as tools went! LOL. This kit is awesome and well worth the little money you spend on it! I had one question about a difference between the 2dr and 4dr. Woods was on call and had me going in about 5 seconds!

Woods, product, and materials were A+, just bring some good tools and patience.

 

JKilo thanks for the reply, great writeup you did and also my guide along with Brett's directions. I'm only using my stock SS, works fine for now, still researching the Fox, Fox told me on the phone the unit for our JKs were NON-adjustable which I found contradictive from what I've read but who knows. They look good and I like that but I can paint a $40 unit black and make do if I have to...then again I like the Fox . More importantly next I'm doing Riddler D44 diff covers front/rear and an oil skid for the Texas Spur September Jeep Jamboree. If I can swing 37s, 5:13 gears and Superior Cmoly inner/outters front and cmolys for the rear I will, but that's tires and wheels when I go that route.