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2010 vs 11 vs 12, price

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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 04:16 AM
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Default 2010 vs 11 vs 12, price

If you were to purchase the same 2 door JK from each model year, how much less would you be willing to pay for the previous years, or more for the later years?

Lets say you can get a 2010, new for for:

$25000

How much more would you be willing to pay for a 2011, or 2012?

This is just an exercise to give me a feel of the relative value of the upgrades (2011 interior, 2012 interior and engine).

Thanks!
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 04:39 AM
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I paid 21,700 for my 2010 sport. List price was 25,500. If I tried to buy the exact same list price is now 27,00. Something tells me I coulndt get a 2012 for anywhere near what I paid.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 05:34 AM
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I am sure I could get a "leftover" 2011 much cheaper than a 2012 with the same equipment right?
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 05:56 AM
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Go drive a 2010/2011 and then a 2012. Then unless you are really cash strapped I think you will have your choice. I'm no expert but from my reading if you add larger tires like 35's to a 2011 or 2012 most people either want to change gears or wish they had. With a 2012 you don't have to do this or at least not right away which would make up for some cost.

Of course I'm biased because I bought a 2012 but it seemed the biggest gripe was the power of the 3.8 and maybe that it burned oil. I can speak for oil but the new engine get's me around as fast as the V8 in the Tahoe I traded for the Jeep. I have 33's by the way.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bigcanoe
I am sure I could get a "leftover" 2011 much cheaper than a 2012 with the same equipment right?


I bought a "left over" 2011 a couple months ago. If I were to get the same jeep, but with the 3.6, it would have run me near 5k more. To be honest, not sure if I should have gone with the base base base model 2012 for the engine, but I really can't complain about the price. Also, the 3.8 has enough aftermarket support to make it a worthy engine.

Oh and after getting used to the interior on the 2011 / 2012, I would say that paying a bit more between a 2010 and 2011 is worth a bit of cost difference. How much is up to you.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 06:12 AM
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The exercise leaves a lot of info out.

Stick or auto?
Are you planning on heavy mods?
How cash strapped are you?
What features do you want?


If you an afford it, get the 2012 and don't look back....ESPECIALLY if you are getting an auto. You can 2012's at 2% below invoice fairly easily. Heck, Truecar.com is even cheaper.

Now...the benefit of the 2011's is 0% financing and what not...but you have to take what is on the lot...which might be 3.21 gearing.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 06:26 AM
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These are dealers in NY.
The 2011 includes a $1000 incentive which would replace the 0% financing.

http://www.truecar.com/prices-new/je...-pricing/2011/ 2011 Pure Base Wrangler - $19,726
http://www.truecar.com/prices-new/je...ngler-pricing/ 2012 Pure Base Wrangler - 21,161

If you are getting an auto.....a 2012 is a no-brainer.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 06:39 AM
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Good point. I am looking at a Sport with manual transmission, not heavy mods, maybe slightly larger tires than stock.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 06:55 AM
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[QUOTE=Pcgizzmo;2624182]Go drive a 2010/2011 and then a 2012. Then unless you are really cash strapped I think you will have your choice. QUOTE]
I second that. I started looking at JKUs in July and took both an auto and manual out on test drives- both Rubicons. Both would've been fine for off road and in town driving, highway driving would've been unsafe...even the standard. Merging on to highways required a patient driver or to flog the shit out of the throttle, or pull out and hope no one slams into your rear.

With all that said,I waited for a month for the 2012s to come out and did the same comparision (both sets of 2011 and 2012s were with 4.10s) and it was night and day differnece. At that point I wouldnt even consider a 2011 or previous. It'd have had to be SUBSTANTIALLY less than any thing they were offering. And for what its worth, on the 2011 Rubicons I was looking at they were only offering invoice pricing at that dealership...or the TL 1% if I was a memeber (which I wasnt, at that point) so I think the prices were something like 35kish.

After my TL discount, my 2012 came out to ~36k and since I ordered it I am not making any comprimises on equipment...its all the things I wanted and I am not paying for shit I didnt want (navi). Oh, and it'll also be a virgin..no one test driving it or abusing it (besides me).


Originally Posted by Pcgizzmo
I'm no expert but from my reading if you add larger tires like 35's to a 2011 or 2012 most people either want to change gears or wish they had. With a 2012 you don't have to do this or at least not right away which would make up for some cost.
I am guessing you meant 2010 or 2011 in the first part of the first sentence?

To the OP...do yourself a favor and check out both 2012s and previous models with the 3.8. That really will tell you what you want/need.
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