All depends on dealership and negotiating skills... I saved over 6k buying a 2011 vs a 2012...
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Originally Posted by Joe Boxer
(Post 2545675)
I looked at two identical vehicles, one was a 2011, the other a 2012. As noted above, you have to assume many things and hold it in a vacuum -- truth is, each region, dealership, and sale is different and you can't really apply the logic or occurrence to another sale.
For the sake of my experience, we are talking Wrangler Sport S models... MSRP was $28,3XX. 2011 -- I was able to get 2% below invoice, a $500 dealership rebate and a $1000 Jeep rebate. 2012 -- Given the new model, the fact that it is generally desired of the 2011, and Jeep's intent to move 2011 models; I was not able to get the vehicle below invoice and there were no concessions. Given those two pieces of information, the net difference between the two was over $4,000. This margin, in this theory, would broaden a bit for the Rubicon and Sahara lines. If you qualify for employee (or equivalent pricing) which would guarantee you invoice or below... the disparity in my example above drops to approximately $2,500. As I leaned towards the 2011 (I genuinely was indifferent to the 2012 model), I further negotiated to have half of the destination & handling charge added on top of my trade-in appraisal... and I had the salesman throw in two cases of beer since the sale allowed him to hit his second level bonus for the month. C/N: I got a 2011 that was stickered at $28.3k for $23.7k after you back out what I outlined above. That's a difference of $4,600. Not every situation is the same, it helps to know not just how the sale works... but how the backend works (holdback, observable age of vehicle, and components that the dealership CAN control). If I'm following this correctly, your $4600 is what you paid vs sticker....but unless you were going to pay sticker for a 2012, it isn't really a $4600 savings. |
Unless you are out in the middle of nowhere, there is no way anyone should be paying more than 1% under invoice for a 2012.
I think the biggest savings for the 2011's is probably the 0% financing. Unless you are getting a 2011 for 5% below invoice PLUS another $1000 or $1500 in rebates...it will be pretty hard to get these $4000, $5000, and $6,000 savings. |
Originally Posted by panthermark
Unless you are getting a 2011 for 5% below invoice PLUS another $1000 or $1500 in rebates...it will be pretty hard to get these $4000, $5000, and $6,000 savings.
2011 2dr sport with perfered pkg s with bigger wheels, decked out interior(no power anything didnt want it) a/c, plus mopar black kit, trac lok limited slip diff... For the price of a base wrangler plus the 1000 cash back rebate. |
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I paid $32,700 for my 2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon. It is loaded, (no leather) and the dealer even installed my AEV bumper, Hella lights, and swapped my wheels for the black ops wheels for free. I had a 2012 on order, and cancelled it to buy a 2011... It was too good of a deal to pass up, especially at 0% APR.
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Originally Posted by panthermark
(Post 2545958)
Unless you are out in the middle of nowhere, there is no way anyone should be paying more than 1% under invoice for a 2012.
I think the biggest savings for the 2011's is probably the 0% financing. Unless you are getting a 2011 for 5% below invoice PLUS another $1000 or $1500 in rebates...it will be pretty hard to get these $4000, $5000, and $6,000 savings. MSRP: $28,3XX Invoice minus 2%: $3,100 (Invoice = $25,8XX - $5XX = $25,2XX) Rebate 1: $1000 Rebate 2: $500 Price of vehicle: $23,7XX The difference between MSRP and price paid... $4,600. This is for a Wrangler Sport with the S package. If you consider that the Rubicon and Sahara have (1) a higher MSRP, (2) thus a larger markup, and (3) the same rebates... a $5k or $6k savings is plausible. When I bought my Sport I was looking at a loaded Rubicon (leather and nav)... the markup (the difference between invoice and MSRP) was just over $5k: $35,6XX sticker, $30,3XX was the invoice. In order to get the 0% financing you have to have good credit, credit good enough that you can qualify for low interest rates without taking the financing option over the rebate. I took the $1,000 because the difference between the Ally financing option and the rate I got through my personal lender amounted to less than $1,000 over the life of the loan -- i.e. It made fiscal sense to take the rebate as it was more money. |
Man, I feel like I got squeezed on my 2011. I bought it in november 2010 and did not get anywhere near those deals. I got mine a little below sticker, although they did throw in grab handles and slushmats and I got 3.9% financing. I wish I waited a little longer on that purchase. Oh well.
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Originally Posted by Joe Boxer
(Post 2546123)
I thought I did a pretty good job of explaining it above... apparently not.
MSRP: $28,3XX Invoice minus 2%: $3,100 (Invoice = $25,8XX - $5XX = $25,2XX) Rebate 1: $1000 Rebate 2: $500 Price of vehicle: $23,7XX The difference between MSRP and price paid... $4,600. This is for a Wrangler Sport with the S package. If you consider that the Rubicon and Sahara have (1) a higher MSRP, (2) thus a larger markup, and (3) the same rebates... a $5k or $6k savings is plausible. When I bought my Sport I was looking at a loaded Rubicon (leather and nav)... the markup (the difference between invoice and MSRP) was just over $5k: $35,6XX sticker, $30,3XX was the invoice. In order to get the 0% financing you have to have good credit, credit good enough that you can qualify for low interest rates without taking the financing option over the rebate. I took the $1,000 because the difference between the Ally financing option and the rate I got through my personal lender amounted to less than $1,000 over the life of the loan -- i.e. It made fiscal sense to take the rebate as it was more money. I thought the OP was asking how some people say they are saving $4000 by getting a 2011 versus a 2012. You are comparing your sold price of a 2011 against the MSRP of that same 2011 (thus $4600). I was confused because I thought you were answering how you saved $4600 over a similarly equipped 2012. :thumbsup: |
Originally Posted by panthermark
(Post 2546251)
OK, I guess we are looking at the question differently.
I thought the OP was asking how some people say they are saving $4000 by getting a 2011 versus a 2012. You are comparing your sold price of a 2011 against the MSRP of that same 2011 (thus $4600). I was confused because I thought you were answering how you saved $4600 over a similarly equipped 2012. :thumbsup: |
Originally Posted by Joe Boxer
(Post 2546266)
That's the common denominator -- there are no rebates or financing incentives on the 2012 and most dealers aren't straying far from the MSRP because it's more sought after. So... when you look at my little explanation above, that MSRP is the effective purchase price of the a 2012 in the same model trim. The logic works because Chrysler made it a goal to price the 2012 and 2011 the same. Some options saw a small price increase, but the option pricing is relatively close.
That is why I could not figure out why you were using MSRP....(instead of the invoice price you had negotiated with the 2012) |
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