2017 jk
Ride is much better…..now me thing..it’s happened twice…one time before I moved the track bar and me after. When I’m driving at a higher speed or a Curve and I push the break I can feel something rubbing.I know in jeeps when you break the front end Dips a little. So do thing it dips Causes something to rub?
Just testing. The feel is not not metal on metal but more like a clunking but I feel it through the brake pedal almost like when you push down on it it’s pushing back up on your foot clunking feel good. Also my traction control light came on and I’m wondering how can I reset that. There were no warning codes I scanned it and nothing came up just the light is on and it’s not blinking.
But overall the jeep drives much better now I have more control over the steering with no bump steer or very little. Since you’ve had jeeps longer than I have what are some of the main issues I can look forward to encountering I already see a little bit of I don’t know if it’s oil or transmission fluid Where the driveshaft and transmission meet.
That sir, is a pretty bad pinion seal leak. Seems worse than what typically see IMO. New pinion seal doesn't cost too much but going to require removing that DS and removing the pinion nut to get the old one out and new one in.
Your earlier description almost sounds like the anitlock braking system kicking in for some reason (pulsating back felt in the pedal) with the traction light kicking on. If that is the case, seems like something is triggering that as it's not normal under regular driving circumstances. Do you have something that reads deeper than basic OBDII codes?
With a lifted jeep and bigger tires, ball joints are something to keep an eye on. There's not a great shot of one in your pictures, but I'm guessing you still have factory BJs. Bad ball joints are a common source of wobble issues on a solid axle vehicle and are definitely something to inspect regularly.
Your earlier description almost sounds like the anitlock braking system kicking in for some reason (pulsating back felt in the pedal) with the traction light kicking on. If that is the case, seems like something is triggering that as it's not normal under regular driving circumstances. Do you have something that reads deeper than basic OBDII codes?
With a lifted jeep and bigger tires, ball joints are something to keep an eye on. There's not a great shot of one in your pictures, but I'm guessing you still have factory BJs. Bad ball joints are a common source of wobble issues on a solid axle vehicle and are definitely something to inspect regularly.
OK so I got everything buttoned up and the jeep was riding good. I installed the steer smart drag link Flip and tie rods. I took my track bar out and I guess the body shifted and I couldn’t get it back in but I figured out if I use a ratchet strap I can get it back yet. The track bar is a adjustable Rubicon measuring at 33 inches from Eye 2 Eye but what I reinstalled it it kept making the axle all center. I had to shorten it to keep the axle centered. Should I have done that or keep it at 33? It’s 32.5 now. And I also installed the steer smart track bar relocation bracket and I have the track bar mounted at the top hole.
The track bar length doesn't matter. Every jeep is going to have a different stance so lengths could vary from jeep to jeep. Just do your best to have the axle centered under the jeep horizontally. As you see, the body can shift when you remove the TB. If you have someone turn the steering wheel a bit it will pull things back inline so you can get a bolt through the bracket and TB easily (tip for the future). With the DL flipped to the top of the knuckle, and the TB mounted in the top hole of the axle-side bracket, those two components should be parallel now.
... and please remember to put blue loctite on that pinion nut when you retorque the nut. Remember there is a crush sleeve in there that was set at around 140ft/lbs tq so don't go near that setting or you may crush the sleeve a bit more then you have to dismantle the diff and reset the pinion depth and setup the ring gear. I torqued my rear down to 100ft/lbs on my rear diff and it has been good so far with no leaks.
PS I hate crush sleeves and if I ever pull a diff apart I will use a solid sleeve and shims to set pinion depth. Makes the diff so much stronger as engine torque cannot "walk" the pinion away from the ring gear by crushing that sleeve a little more.
PS I hate crush sleeves and if I ever pull a diff apart I will use a solid sleeve and shims to set pinion depth. Makes the diff so much stronger as engine torque cannot "walk" the pinion away from the ring gear by crushing that sleeve a little more.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-about-353604/
That is pretty straightforward and frank. 37s are really difficult to do properly on factory axles IMO. People will do it, most of the time not very well. I'm relatively local to you and always willing to lend a hand to people trying to learn about their jeeps.
That is pretty straightforward and frank. 37s are really difficult to do properly on factory axles IMO. People will do it, most of the time not very well. I'm relatively local to you and always willing to lend a hand to people trying to learn about their jeeps.








