6" lift ir 4" lift
JK Jedi
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 376
From: Southwest Reno, NV
a drag link flip is flipping the axle side mount from the lower side of the knuckle to the top. You would also raise the axle side track bar mount by the same amount to keep the linkages parallel. By doing this you will raise the roll center of jeep making it more stable in off camber situations and it will also eliminate bump steer which starts to get bad at around 4" of lift height. You would also to want to raise the track bar mount on the rear axle to increase stability and to re-center your axle.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 413
Likes: 0
From: Carolina
a drag link flip is flipping the axle side mount from the lower side of the knuckle to the top. You would also raise the axle side track bar mount by the same amount to keep the linkages parallel. By doing this you will raise the roll center of jeep making it more stable in off camber situations and it will also eliminate bump steer which starts to get bad at around 4" of lift height. You would also to want to raise the track bar mount on the rear axle to increase stability and to re-center your axle.
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Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 413
Likes: 0
From: Carolina
JK Jedi
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 376
From: Southwest Reno, NV
You can run after market knuckles like reid racing that will already be set up for a drag link flip and will raise your tie rod up 1.5" to help keep it from getting bent. That route can be expensive at around $500 for a set.
You can also drill your existing knuckles and use a tapered bushing for about $10. This will also allow you to go back to a standard drag link mount if you want in the future.
38" tires are kinda an odd size with most of them being a extra wide tire (14.5"-15.5"). They typically require the same amount of mods as 40's require and with the 40's you gain an extra 1" of ground clearance. They also tend to weigh very close to 40" tire as well. I really don't see any reason to run them over 37's which are easier to fit unless you mainly run in the mud or sand dunes and need the extra floatation of the wide tire..
You can also drill your existing knuckles and use a tapered bushing for about $10. This will also allow you to go back to a standard drag link mount if you want in the future.
38" tires are kinda an odd size with most of them being a extra wide tire (14.5"-15.5"). They typically require the same amount of mods as 40's require and with the 40's you gain an extra 1" of ground clearance. They also tend to weigh very close to 40" tire as well. I really don't see any reason to run them over 37's which are easier to fit unless you mainly run in the mud or sand dunes and need the extra floatation of the wide tire..
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 413
Likes: 0
From: Carolina
You can run after market knuckles like reid racing that will already be set up for a drag link flip and will raise your tie rod up 1.5" to help keep it from getting bent. That route can be expensive at around $500 for a set.
You can also drill your existing knuckles and use a tapered bushing for about $10. This will also allow you to go back to a standard drag link mount if you want in the future.
38" tires are kinda an odd size with most of them being a extra wide tire (14.5"-15.5"). They typically require the same amount of mods as 40's require and with the 40's you gain an extra 1" of ground clearance. They also tend to weigh very close to 40" tire as well. I really don't see any reason to run them over 37's which are easier to fit unless you mainly run in the mud or sand dunes and need the extra floatation of the wide tire..
You can also drill your existing knuckles and use a tapered bushing for about $10. This will also allow you to go back to a standard drag link mount if you want in the future.
38" tires are kinda an odd size with most of them being a extra wide tire (14.5"-15.5"). They typically require the same amount of mods as 40's require and with the 40's you gain an extra 1" of ground clearance. They also tend to weigh very close to 40" tire as well. I really don't see any reason to run them over 37's which are easier to fit unless you mainly run in the mud or sand dunes and need the extra floatation of the wide tire..
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JK Jedi
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 376
From: Southwest Reno, NV
You do not need gussets on the knuckles, they are installed on the inner c that is welded to the axle.
Steering issues are not because of bond but due to the drag link and track bars moving in different arcs as you articulate your suspension
Steering issues are not because of bond but due to the drag link and track bars moving in different arcs as you articulate your suspension