Brake Help
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Brake Help
Hey guys, just replaced my driver side rear pads and rotor because it was dragging super bad. So now with the new ones on I can smell burning brakes and the occasional squeak. I’m not sure what it is. I thought it could be the E-brake sticking but when u pulled it off everything looked fine and it engages fine as well. The caliper doesn’t seem seized either.
Any advice/tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Any advice/tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
JK Super Freak
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 64
From: Sweet Home, TX
I had the same problem, not sure if you are lifted or not, but with mine, I had stretched and damaged the rear drivers brake line, got a set of Teraflex stainless braided lines, and never had a problem since.
Factory, on all brand vehicle, can sometimes fail internally, and collapse. The master cylinder can then force fluid to the brakes, but the pressure doesn't bleed off like it supposed to leading the caliper to remain engaged for extended periods after you have let off the brakes.
Factory, on all brand vehicle, can sometimes fail internally, and collapse. The master cylinder can then force fluid to the brakes, but the pressure doesn't bleed off like it supposed to leading the caliper to remain engaged for extended periods after you have let off the brakes.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
I had the same problem, not sure if you are lifted or not, but with mine, I had stretched and damaged the rear drivers brake line, got a set of Teraflex stainless braided lines, and never had a problem since.
Factory, on all brand vehicle, can sometimes fail internally, and collapse. The master cylinder can then force fluid to the brakes, but the pressure doesn't bleed off like it supposed to leading the caliper to remain engaged for extended periods after you have let off the brakes.
Factory, on all brand vehicle, can sometimes fail internally, and collapse. The master cylinder can then force fluid to the brakes, but the pressure doesn't bleed off like it supposed to leading the caliper to remain engaged for extended periods after you have let off the brakes.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 64
From: Sweet Home, TX
Not that I am aware of, the two times that I have had this type of issue (once in a half ton Chevy pickup and the other my JK), I had kind of gotten to the point of replacing things until I found what part was causing it.
With the Jeep, the first time it was locking up I replaced the pads and caliper. Then it happened again, and after 6 months it locked up so bad one day when I got home the pads were smoking, the rotor was blue, and it melted the back of the plastic center cap on my wheel. That time I replaced the pads, caliper, rotor, and the next item in the system was the flexible brake line, so I got that as well. I got lucky and that corrected the issues.
It is pretty common on the JK, at least in this forum when people are talking about rear caliper sticking or locking up, that after they replace the brake line the problem goes away.
You can get a good pair of aftermarket stainless braided lines for around $100, some brands even cheaper, and it's a pretty easy job as long as you have a friend to help bleed the brakes, or a vacuum bleeder to bleed them if you are working solo.
I think some of the auto parts stores will loan you a vacuum bleeder, and probably walk you through using it if you ask. I know O'Reilly's loans tools, it just depends on if your location has a vacuum bleeder to loan out. Or have one to sell for around $50.
With the Jeep, the first time it was locking up I replaced the pads and caliper. Then it happened again, and after 6 months it locked up so bad one day when I got home the pads were smoking, the rotor was blue, and it melted the back of the plastic center cap on my wheel. That time I replaced the pads, caliper, rotor, and the next item in the system was the flexible brake line, so I got that as well. I got lucky and that corrected the issues.
It is pretty common on the JK, at least in this forum when people are talking about rear caliper sticking or locking up, that after they replace the brake line the problem goes away.
You can get a good pair of aftermarket stainless braided lines for around $100, some brands even cheaper, and it's a pretty easy job as long as you have a friend to help bleed the brakes, or a vacuum bleeder to bleed them if you are working solo.
I think some of the auto parts stores will loan you a vacuum bleeder, and probably walk you through using it if you ask. I know O'Reilly's loans tools, it just depends on if your location has a vacuum bleeder to loan out. Or have one to sell for around $50.