Choosing the right Winch
08-16-2012, 04:52 AM
#11
JK Freak
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I spent months battling in my head about what winch to get. I would always start with something entry level at around $300. Then my mind would tell me I would be replacing it in a couple years as it will see a lot of use and I would probably want to upgrade anyway. So I'd be looking at a $500 winch. Then I'd think I would be replacing steel cable with a synthetic eventually anyway so that adds $300. Now I'm in the $800 range.
Amazon has the Superwinch Talon series 9000i SR for something like $830. Well the 12.5 is only another $50 so why not get the winch I really wanted and not have to replace it in a couple years. Wait, how did I get from a $300 winch to almost triple the price in like 20 minutes?
Then I would decide to wait and two weeks later I would replay the conversation in my head.
Amazon has the Superwinch Talon series 9000i SR for something like $830. Well the 12.5 is only another $50 so why not get the winch I really wanted and not have to replace it in a couple years. Wait, how did I get from a $300 winch to almost triple the price in like 20 minutes?
Then I would decide to wait and two weeks later I would replay the conversation in my head.
08-17-2012, 12:33 AM
#14
The Peterson's test I saw had Warn then Superwinch then TMax then Engo. It beat Harbor Freight and a bunch of other cheap winches but lost to the cheap versions of the real winches.
A lot of the tests they did aren't practical either.
A lot of the tests they did aren't practical either.
08-17-2012, 05:28 AM
#15
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Ive read that the winch you choose should be able to pull 1.5x your gross vehicle weight. For us thats 12000 pounds. So I guess going with an 8500 or 9000 would not be enough? Since the GVW is 8000 pounds why would I realistically need to go up to 12000 with a winch?
PS - I really like the Warns that have the Air Compressor built in. Seems like Id be killing two birds with one stone.
PS - I really like the Warns that have the Air Compressor built in. Seems like Id be killing two birds with one stone.
08-17-2012, 05:33 AM
#16
JK Super Freak
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Your PS hit a nail on the head, If your looking multi purpose, a Warn Powerplant is where it's at. I have been running them for quite some time now and can't say enough good things. They may be a bit pricey, but mine have paid for themselves time and time again so far. And I saw you have an LOD bumper, which fit them nicely and have a very sharp look. As for synthetic line, it has its perks and is an upgradable option on all winches, but standard on some. If you have any questions on the Powerplants, give me a holler.
For $600 on CL I got a XD9000i is excellent condition, steel cable, lots of accessories including a Warn Snatch Block and extra D-Rings. I've used it many times for rescuing myself and others.
08-17-2012, 07:06 AM
#17
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Those results were skewed to say the least. Assigning more points for how pretty the stickers and owners manual are versus how the winches performed on actual measurable tests was a bunch of BS. It should have been T-Max, Engo, Superwinch then Warn. I'm a huge fan of Warn (just look at my sig). They no doubt make the best winch out there, but the advertising dollars won out there. Ease of use, submersion, speed and efficiency, and the stall tests were the most important ones. Really, 60 points for the how ergonomic the remote control was versus 10 points for the stall test? Ok...
08-18-2012, 08:57 AM
#18
I'm also in the process of talking myself into a winch. This is the first time I've ever had the chance to afford one, and I would like to get it now while I can. Heck, I'm still sporting the SR-A's, but those have to wait till I lift.
powrsurg mentioned something about 1.5 times the gvw, is it that or 2x the curb weight. The curb weight on the vehicle is like 3800 or 3900lbs. That would make a 9000lb winch the target to shoot for minimum. I would just like to clear things up before I under buy because I was misinformed.
powrsurg mentioned something about 1.5 times the gvw, is it that or 2x the curb weight. The curb weight on the vehicle is like 3800 or 3900lbs. That would make a 9000lb winch the target to shoot for minimum. I would just like to clear things up before I under buy because I was misinformed.
08-18-2012, 10:16 AM
#19
JK Freak
Thread Starter
I cant post the link as I think it would violate the T&C's for this site but here is the quote my originating statement was based off of.
Based on this 1.5X Our GVW is a little over 12,000lbs
The first important consideration in choosing a winch is the winch manufacturer’s line pull rating. This is a combination of the mechanical capacity of the winch and the tensile strength of the line on the drum. The important part to remember is that, unless otherwise indicated, rated capacity is based on the first layer of winch cable (the one closest to the drum). Typically, there are three or four layers and that first one has the “lowest” gear ratio and the most pull.
How much pull is enough? The rule-of-thumb minimum is to take your GVW (that’s Gross Vehicle Weight, not curb weight) and multiply it by 1.5.
How much pull is enough? The rule-of-thumb minimum is to take your GVW (that’s Gross Vehicle Weight, not curb weight) and multiply it by 1.5.
08-18-2012, 12:22 PM
#20
Choosing Winch Capacity based off "Four Wheelers Bible" Reference
Choosing Winch Capacity
You can go to the Jeep website compare models to get an idea of the weight of your Jeep.
You can also find the weight posted on the inside of your driver door on a sticker. Here is a picture of mine below stating the Gross Vehical Weight Rateing (GVWR) is 5100.
BASE OFF ABOVE WHAT MY 2DR RUBICON NEEDS
So in my case based off the door sticker with 15% added it would be 5865 minium winch capacity. It's a bit odd that the Jeep link for 2dr's above give a 1100+ larger GVWR, but it is subjective. Based off their max GVWR posted on the web page link, I would need a minium winch capacity of 7196. The curb weight from the Jeep link above is 4104 lbs. So that method (1-1/2X to 2X) would give a minimum range of 6156-8208.
Worth noting is that a snatch block will double your winches pulling power.
Taken from Four-Wheeler's Bible: 2nd Edition page 205
QUOTE-The most important consideration is winch capacity. The manufactures all come pretty close to each other in terms of recomended capacity. The minimum capacity to look for is your gross vehicle weight (not curb weight) plus about 15%. If your pickup's GVW is 8,600 pounds, add 15% and you get 9890 pounds, rounded up to 10,000 pounds. The other rule of thumb is 1.5 to 2 times curb weight. If you anticipate harder-core situations, always opt for more capacity. As you will learn further on, rated power comes form the first (innermost) layer on the drum, so having the capacity to "pull your weight" from the outermost layer on the drum could come in handy someday. END QUOTE
I found these definitions on the internetQUOTE-The most important consideration is winch capacity. The manufactures all come pretty close to each other in terms of recomended capacity. The minimum capacity to look for is your gross vehicle weight (not curb weight) plus about 15%. If your pickup's GVW is 8,600 pounds, add 15% and you get 9890 pounds, rounded up to 10,000 pounds. The other rule of thumb is 1.5 to 2 times curb weight. If you anticipate harder-core situations, always opt for more capacity. As you will learn further on, rated power comes form the first (innermost) layer on the drum, so having the capacity to "pull your weight" from the outermost layer on the drum could come in handy someday. END QUOTE
Curb Weight
The curb weight of your vehicle is the weight of the car with all of the standard equipment and amenities, but without any passengers, cargo or any other separately loaded items in it. Thus, the curb weight is the amount that the vehicle weighs when it's resting on the curb and not in use. This is generally the standard weight that the manufacturer assigns to the car.
Gross Vehicle Weight
The gross vehicle weight is the combined weight of the vehicle and all passengers and cargo pieces in "gross," that is to say, in total.
FINDING WEIGHT OFF JEEP WEBSITEThe curb weight of your vehicle is the weight of the car with all of the standard equipment and amenities, but without any passengers, cargo or any other separately loaded items in it. Thus, the curb weight is the amount that the vehicle weighs when it's resting on the curb and not in use. This is generally the standard weight that the manufacturer assigns to the car.
Gross Vehicle Weight
The gross vehicle weight is the combined weight of the vehicle and all passengers and cargo pieces in "gross," that is to say, in total.
You can go to the Jeep website compare models to get an idea of the weight of your Jeep.
TIP:You need to select the type (sport, rubicon) in the drop down, and then you can click where it says dimensions & capabilities. Scoll down about half way to see the weight.
2DR SPEC'S LINK->Jeep - Compare Vehicle and Model Specifications - Highlights
4DR SPEC'S LINK->Jeep - Compare Vehicle and Model Specifications - Highlights
WEIGHT'S POSTED ON DOOR2DR SPEC'S LINK->Jeep - Compare Vehicle and Model Specifications - Highlights
4DR SPEC'S LINK->Jeep - Compare Vehicle and Model Specifications - Highlights
You can also find the weight posted on the inside of your driver door on a sticker. Here is a picture of mine below stating the Gross Vehical Weight Rateing (GVWR) is 5100.
BASE OFF ABOVE WHAT MY 2DR RUBICON NEEDS
So in my case based off the door sticker with 15% added it would be 5865 minium winch capacity. It's a bit odd that the Jeep link for 2dr's above give a 1100+ larger GVWR, but it is subjective. Based off their max GVWR posted on the web page link, I would need a minium winch capacity of 7196. The curb weight from the Jeep link above is 4104 lbs. So that method (1-1/2X to 2X) would give a minimum range of 6156-8208.
Worth noting is that a snatch block will double your winches pulling power.
Last edited by Rooster76; 08-18-2012 at 12:37 PM.