just got a 2011 Sahara JKU and in the process of making it camp-able to travel around. So, step one, take the back seats out, easy right ? just a few bolts right ? WRONG... ! Those bolts protrude at least 1/2 inch below the floor through very long nuts welded to the frame. OK, understandable, don't want the seats flying around do we. Most came lose and out with the usual amount of cursing swearing, WD40 breaker bars etc. ONE, forward on the passenger side would not budge. Not wanting to shear it off which would cause a world of hurt because the gas tank is right there, I went to work on it. Too tight of an angle for any impact wrench I had, so I had to us a long breaker bar. Any extensions just swallowed up the force so it was bar straight to socket. Problem now is that because you need a long bar, you are out the door. Because you are out the door you can only manage a 1/4 turn, remove socket, rotate it to get to right angle again and repeat. 3 times per minute for 6 hours equals what.... ? It is one long bolt and all messed up with crud from being exposed to the elements for so long. Succeeded eventually but I have to say that this one bolt goes to the top of the list as the most tedious difficult bolt I have ever encountered and that includes seized spark plugs !
So do not count on this job being quick and easy

 

Welcome to JKF. Actually your bolts have factory loctite (aka glue) on them to prevent them coming undone I suppose. I simply get a lumber yard blow torch and place something fireproof tight around the bolt, then heat the head for about 30-40 seconds then undo easily. If you can see the bolt from underneath simply heat it from there and concentrate on the bolt with theflame.

 

I have already extracted them, BUT I didn't want to heat them because there was about an inch deep of WD40 in the back seat floor area. The bolt in question is sandwiched between the floor and the top of the gas tank. Prudence indicated that a torch in that area may not end well. As for the Loctite or similar, the others came free comparatively easily and even after it was broken free, it took constant pressure with the bar to get all the way out. It fought me to the last thread !
I have fought many seized bolts and having sheared a few off wanted to avoid that as extraction would have been difficult to say the least as it is almost impossible to attack the bolt straight on because of the seat structure.
Just putting it out there as a heads up to any like minded people. No one ever posts a youtube of abject failures do they ?
Slow, tedious and relentless but the sucker came out in one piece

 

I removed that rear seat when I bedlined the tub on my '13 years ago. It is definitely a job that is more of a pain in the ass then you'd think. I recall my bolts having some sort of threadlock on em that was not blue loctite and yes, the real issue is can't use impact due to space, and breaker bars have clearance issues as well. It's fun times!

 

I hear ya. They are not siezed they are glued. WD40 is not necessary.
A bit of a steal but on your subject - I am about to build a sleeping and storage area in the back and will fold down the back seats with 4" under-clearance forward on the seat and 9" clearance aft for storage of dishes, utensils etc. Going to have 8" flaps straddling the console either side for extra length, move the seats forward, flip the flaps down to sleep. Will give me 72" of length (good for me) and will build a lean-to canopy over the back in case I cook in the rain. For that the frame will use EMT conduit (used to be an electrician) supports for that which slide into roof rack mounted receivers. Good enough for this boy.

 

I built a trunk structure that incorporated pieces to flip forward over the rear seat area a la ronjenx's model years ago. I used to do a lot of sleeping in the back of the jeep on quick overnight wheeling trips and it was simple and easy. I'm 6" tall and with the front seats moved forward I could sleep comfortably in there completely stretched out.

 

FYI- the guy on Project Farm did a nice study on the effectiveness of penetrating oils. Liquid wrench was the best. WD40 and PB blaster required about 20% more torque to free the bolts compared to the Liquid Wrench. PB blaster has always been my go-to product, but I think I'll give liquid wrench a try.

 

Liquid wrench IMO is not worth buying if you want the best/last you will ever buy get Kroil...

https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Pe...61577674&psc=1

 

Not according to the test. Kroil was about identical to PB blaster. Of course this is just one test, but the experiments he did seemed pretty good.

 

funny thing is that we don't talk or reminisce about the easy jobs but we sure do go on about the tough ones !
What puzzled me was that only ONE bolt out of the several involved caused any real issue. Wondering if there was any thread glue on any of them. I'm just happy to have not sheared it off. I hate it when that happens and seldom use an impact. Leverage is your friend