If you'd like to get rid of them completely just take them to a shop loose and tell them you sold the wheels and need the sensors for your factory wheels, and would like to have new rubber valves in for the new owner?

 

I'm quite certain that would work, since they put regular stems in my old Rubi stockers when they mounted the new tire/wheel combo. I was thinking of having them banded inside the wheel, but that would rule out the Staun internal beadlocks high on my to-do list.

 

I've had a similar problem with some other wheels I had years ago. My remedy was to redrill the chuck hole inside the wheel, place a rubber valve there, and place a flush mount valve in place of the original valve. Round-D-round racers have similar problems so this is their solution. > http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/allst...-fullsize.html I don't know the tolerances of the TPMS and how far inward you could move it before it didn't read correctly but, you wouldn't have problems with tearing off your valve anymore. Hope this helps somewhat.

 

In all honesty i would really consider getting the pro cal over having them banded though. Cost will likely be similar but with the pro cal no more worries... ever. If you do do the bands make sure someone with some common sense does your tire work at all times.

 

Problem solved.

iscount Tire banded the sensors WAY cheaper than a AEV Procal. Used shorty rubber stems so they stay tucked in where I imagined them to be in the first place. No TPMS dings or light with highway tire pressure.

Highly recommend have the sensors banded. This picture is not my tire/wheel, but it is the same band kit:



Here's the result:

 

That sure looks like it will work. Did you remove the valve stems first?

I contacted Schrader (they make the TPMS Sensors), and they indicated they may have a solution (shorter valve) this Fall.

 

The whole kit and caboodle (whatever "caboodle" means) fit on the sensor adapter inside the wheel.

A shorter valve would be good if Jeep installs them as OEM. Otherwise, it would probably be a rather expensive upgrade just for shorter stems. At least they are thinking about the problem.

I noticed a lot of aftermarket wheels have the valve stem tucked in quite far from the wheel edge. I'm not sure what AEV means by "The Tire and Rim Association and the TPMS manufacturer specifies where and how the TPMS must be mounted, so we don't have any real control in the design of our wheel on where to position the sensor other than violating there guidelines. The sensors have a battery and switch that is triggered by rotational force and therefor must be mounted in the correct orientation, for example it shouldn't be mounted at a different angle etc." I have to call Bull Excrement on that since there are literally dozens of aftermarket wheels not constrained by such "guidelines".

 

Yeah, don’t know what the cost will be…


Me too. I believe the wheels came out before the TPMS sensors were available.

 

Well we don't have a discount tire over here in Idaho so I went to Les Schwab and spoke with the manager Brad and he first said "No you will need to go to the dealership to get the sensor" So, then I explained in detail what was happening and he said "That's not a very good design for a off road vehicle, lets see what we can do..." So he sent me out to the shop with one of the techs and I showed him your picture. he said "I can't see or figure out how they mounted the sensor to the band" so we cut a grove in the plastic valve support on the senor and removed the stems. we then placed the sensor in the grove of the wheel and placed a band over the sensor. Works perfectly!
But it ended up costing me $108 for bands, rubber stems and labor. But that is still cheaper than replacing one sensor from the stealership!

 

There's a bracket that comes with the kit. The band slips through the bracket and the sensor just screws in like it's a regular valve stem. However, it looks like your solution works too!