Pulling the Trigger -- Herculiner -- Help with Prep
I have a 2dr. Tired of dog hair, mud and the elements staining or getting trapped in the carpet. I am at no concern with road noise -- I have a soft top that is already loud and I live in AZ, therefore the top is down or the windows are out about 10 months out of the year. I am not worried about floor heat either -- I have husky rubber mud mats and worse comes to worse I can rip some of the carpet and put it under my feet.
Herculining is the easy part. Taking my seats out and moving my wires out of the way, not worried. I do not have an electric sander -- hoping my neighbor will let me borrow his. But if I do have to pick one up then I will.
Questions:
1) How much Herculiner should I pick up for a 2 dr to do a couple coats?
2) How much do I have to prep the tub of the JK? Do I have to get everything to the bare metal? Details, please.
3) Curious. How long would the sanding prep probably take to do the tub of a 2dr JK?
4) Is there any specific sander I should look into purchasing or borrowing that will help get the prepping done faster and/or more efficiently?
5) Anything else I should do to properly prep my tub before applying the Herculiner?
Thank you all, in advance. The reason Herculiner is because I am on a very tight budget. If I had the cash to spend, it would be Line-X done by the pros. I am a handy man, so I am not worried. But yeah, it's Herculiner for me; plus a few offroad acquaintances have done the same and love the stuff.
Herculining is the easy part. Taking my seats out and moving my wires out of the way, not worried. I do not have an electric sander -- hoping my neighbor will let me borrow his. But if I do have to pick one up then I will.
Questions:
1) How much Herculiner should I pick up for a 2 dr to do a couple coats?
2) How much do I have to prep the tub of the JK? Do I have to get everything to the bare metal? Details, please.
3) Curious. How long would the sanding prep probably take to do the tub of a 2dr JK?
4) Is there any specific sander I should look into purchasing or borrowing that will help get the prepping done faster and/or more efficiently?
5) Anything else I should do to properly prep my tub before applying the Herculiner?
Thank you all, in advance. The reason Herculiner is because I am on a very tight budget. If I had the cash to spend, it would be Line-X done by the pros. I am a handy man, so I am not worried. But yeah, it's Herculiner for me; plus a few offroad acquaintances have done the same and love the stuff.
I'm right there with you I'll being doing this this June myself.
1. Look into this stuff, better for this application than heculiner. And just cost around $100.

2. DO NOT go to bare metal, just scuff the paint to cause grooves or ridges so the liner will have something to stick to. Paint is a moisture barrier bed liner is not.
3. Plan a whole day for prep work, it will take it. Spray the next day when you are fresh. Spray 3 different coats. Wait till previous coat is tacking to apply the next, you want them to adhere to each other but you do not want running/dripping.
4. Use something like this.

5. After you scuff the entire surface clean to remove all loose particles. With soap and water and possibly acetone if you want overkill. Don't forget masking tape and poly to protect from overspray.
If you decide to go with herculiner the prep is the same. If you go roll-on just wait longer between coats so the liner has more time to dry letting the first coat stay in place when the roller passes over it.
1. Look into this stuff, better for this application than heculiner. And just cost around $100.
2. DO NOT go to bare metal, just scuff the paint to cause grooves or ridges so the liner will have something to stick to. Paint is a moisture barrier bed liner is not.
3. Plan a whole day for prep work, it will take it. Spray the next day when you are fresh. Spray 3 different coats. Wait till previous coat is tacking to apply the next, you want them to adhere to each other but you do not want running/dripping.
4. Use something like this.
5. After you scuff the entire surface clean to remove all loose particles. With soap and water and possibly acetone if you want overkill. Don't forget masking tape and poly to protect from overspray.
If you decide to go with herculiner the prep is the same. If you go roll-on just wait longer between coats so the liner has more time to dry letting the first coat stay in place when the roller passes over it.
Last edited by toymaster; Mar 13, 2010 at 09:31 PM.
Toymaster -- thank you so much for the response. Glad someone was able to provide their 2 cents. I will definitely take your thoughts and suggestions into consideration before swiping the credit card.
I am kinda interested how the raptor liner works also, I have also heard about this stuff called monsterliner that you roll on.(they have a $100. kit also) would like to do something this spring. So post up pics whichever route you go.
any pics of this stuff applied would be appricated.
Here is oz the raptor is the only spray bed liner i can find, im thinking of using it to coat from under the door sills to the bottom on the body, but im not sure how the raptor product will look after application.
On another note, iv seen a pic somewhere on here of someone whose done the same thing but cant find it again for the life of me.
Here is oz the raptor is the only spray bed liner i can find, im thinking of using it to coat from under the door sills to the bottom on the body, but im not sure how the raptor product will look after application.
On another note, iv seen a pic somewhere on here of someone whose done the same thing but cant find it again for the life of me.
I can't provide any input for the Raptor, but I used Herculiner for the floors of my bronco.
I purchased one kit for ~$100. It really needed 2 kits for the best results. I didn't want to spend the money, so I just dealt with it.
Preparation:
The prep work required for the Herculiner includes scuffing the painted surface. The kit came with a Scotch Brite pad, if I recall correctly. Once scuffed, you vacuum and wipe everything down with a solvent to ensure things are clean.
Finished Product:
Overall, I rate the Herculiner as a B-. It can be tough to apply evenly (in regards to the "texture"). The solvent off-gassing during the cure process are nasty. The finished product is very rough. You don't want to be crawling around on your knees on this stuff. You'll lose a layer of skin.
My recommendation:
The B- grade meanes I would use it again, if money was a factor. It worked as described.
I had Line-X in my F150 and would do that again in a heartbeat. The difference here is $450 vs. $100-200 for a kit or 2 of Herculiner.
Best of luck with your project.
Jeff
I purchased one kit for ~$100. It really needed 2 kits for the best results. I didn't want to spend the money, so I just dealt with it.
Preparation:
The prep work required for the Herculiner includes scuffing the painted surface. The kit came with a Scotch Brite pad, if I recall correctly. Once scuffed, you vacuum and wipe everything down with a solvent to ensure things are clean.
Finished Product:
Overall, I rate the Herculiner as a B-. It can be tough to apply evenly (in regards to the "texture"). The solvent off-gassing during the cure process are nasty. The finished product is very rough. You don't want to be crawling around on your knees on this stuff. You'll lose a layer of skin.
My recommendation:
The B- grade meanes I would use it again, if money was a factor. It worked as described.
I had Line-X in my F150 and would do that again in a heartbeat. The difference here is $450 vs. $100-200 for a kit or 2 of Herculiner.
Best of luck with your project.
Jeff
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I have a 2dr. Tired of dog hair, mud and the elements staining or getting trapped in the carpet. I am at no concern with road noise -- I have a soft top that is already loud and I live in AZ, therefore the top is down or the windows are out about 10 months out of the year. I am not worried about floor heat either -- I have husky rubber mud mats and worse comes to worse I can rip some of the carpet and put it under my feet.
Herculining is the easy part. Taking my seats out and moving my wires out of the way, not worried. I do not have an electric sander -- hoping my neighbor will let me borrow his. But if I do have to pick one up then I will.
Herculining is the easy part. Taking my seats out and moving my wires out of the way, not worried. I do not have an electric sander -- hoping my neighbor will let me borrow his. But if I do have to pick one up then I will.
I picked up the one gallon kit at autozone, I had 1/4 left over.I did the entire tub up to the lip of the hard top and the inside of the gate door. I also did the lower door sill between the 2 seams for the front doors cause they always are getting scratched. Once the first coat is no longer tacky to touch start the second coat (depending on the tempature outside it could be 1-3 hours after the first coat is down).
2) How much do I have to prep the tub of the JK? Do I have to get everything to the bare metal? Details, please.
I bought a 3 pack of the green kitchen scrub pads. They worked better than the one in the kit. You dont need to go to bare metal, just need to scuff it to get rid of the shine.
3) Curious. How long would the sanding prep probably take to do the tub of a 2dr JK?
After pulling the seats (they are torqued to a billion pounds), carpet, trim, lift up the wiring and pull the drain plugs. I taped up the outline, drain holes and whateverlese I didnt want the liner on. That took about 2 hours. The scuffing took me probably 1-1.5 hours. Once your done scuffing everything up, vacuum up all the dust and dirt. When your done vacuuming wipe everything down with acetone, paint thinner or MEK. Now look to see if there is any spots that might need to be rescuffed (if so rewipe with the cleaner you use)
4) Is there any specific sander I should look into purchasing or borrowing that will help get the prepping done faster and/or more efficiently?
You dont need to get a sander to scuff it ( you could use it as an excuse to get a sander though
)5) Anything else I should do to properly prep my tub before applying the Herculiner?
the better the prep you do, the better the end product
Make sure you wipe it down with acetone, paint thinner (the directions in the kit will help a lot). Make sure you get some latex gloves and maybe another 2" or 3" paint brush. The worst part of the whole job was removing the tape after you finished the second layer (dont wait for the second layer to dry, pull the tape as soon as your done).
If you can find it, there is also a UV protectant from herculiner that you apply on top, get it if they have it, to keep it from looking like powdery grey that a lot of trucks get from being out in the sun.
Here are a couple of pics before and after
i have used the upol raptor kit on two different vehicles.
one was a tj and the other was one of my work vans. its held up way better on the tj than the van. i do however think that the reason it hasnt held up on the van as good is because i didnt get the raptor on thick enough. plus it hauls cabinets everday.
on the tj it has held up pretty damn good, no complaints.
just so you guys know the raptor liner is rubbery like other systems out there. it dries really hard and textured, stuff will slide on it.
shaun h
one was a tj and the other was one of my work vans. its held up way better on the tj than the van. i do however think that the reason it hasnt held up on the van as good is because i didnt get the raptor on thick enough. plus it hauls cabinets everday.
on the tj it has held up pretty damn good, no complaints.
just so you guys know the raptor liner is rubbery like other systems out there. it dries really hard and textured, stuff will slide on it.
shaun h
fourxfourjeep -- thank you so much for your response. It was very informative and helpful. Loved the pics, too. Picking up the Herculiner tomorrow and plan to do a write-up for the forum -- this past week was too hectic and my priorities had to be elsewhere. Again, thanks.


