resharp001

idk how tall trees grow round there, but those little 8" electric chainsaws on a pole work pretty good too. I needed one this last year and bought pos Ryobi from HD for $100. It worked just fine, cept after I used it I realized HF had one and it was of course, cheaper I don't think of HF when it comes to some things....like poll saws.

karls10jk

The green and yellow are just standard vs aggressive cut blades. The yellow has a big disclaimer on it and they encourage it for "professional use only". I'd guess it cuts twice as fast as the green. These are Stihl chains mind you, I don't have experience with other saws outside of the Poulon. I just got tired of Poul'n On the thing trying to get it started. The Stihl starts right up every time no matter how long it's been sitting. I find the yellow and green blades at Taylor's Do It Center but I'm sure somewhere like Ace or your local lawnmower outfit would have them too.

Rednroll

Thanks for the further details. Kind of what I'm piecing together and to be honest guessing at this point since I haven't looked into it further. I did read the Bauer's owners manual for assembly purposes and after reading your description, I'm guessing the difference between the Yellow and Green might be in the chain kick back safety feature. The yellow likely has teeth which bites into the wood more which I'm sure provides better cutting. The green likely has what was described in the OM of additional teeth which don't cut but are there for safety reasons and help against chain kick back situations. The "professional" get better cutting and risking getting a chainsaw kicked back and stuck into their forehead, while us amateurs get the safer tools which don't cut as well.

Mark Doiron

The aggressive chains are more prone to kickback. Unless one is an experienced user of a chainsaw, I'd avoid them.

karls10jk

Correct, they are more prone to kickback. Red- they have fewer teeth and clear out more wood per pass. These logs are relatively small and usually there are at least 10-15 of these chunks in the yard so the yellow chain makes the cleanup go pretty quickly. The Poulon didn't last a week with this stuff, we currently use 2 Stihl's to process the wood at the house. My friend that dumps the wood (tree cutting company) turned us on to the yellow chains, but he runs Husqvarna saws with 24" bars- talk about some serious power.

Rednroll

Ok, I'm back at this chainsaw chain sharpening again. I didn't think this would be so complicated and that there would be math involved.

I need to figure out what size file I need to use. I did some reading and watched a couple Youtube vids, and it just seems what should be pretty simple the experts make this seem complicated and to be honest the videos I watched were some of the boringest ish I have ever watched, so maybe that played a part in it as well.

Anyways, on the side of the chain there are no markings. On the Chain bar it has a code number stamped on it. PO10-43SR(t) A19. I have no idea how to use this code. I also measured the distance between 3 link rivets. I purchased a chainsaw chain file set from HF which contains 5/32in, 7/32in, and a 3/16in round files. The 5/32in seems like the best size for this chain but I'm really unsure and don't want to mess up the chain or mess myself up sharpening it incorrectly.

What size file do I need and what's the angle I should file at?

resharp001

You may have already seen this video, but it popped up on my stream today and I thought the discussion about rakers was pretty interesting. I Have to admit not putting a lot of thought in to the raker before, but it's importance definitely makes a lot of sense.

Rednroll

You're right. I did watch that one. Made me think...ah damn, now I need to go out and find one of those raker guide tools to make sure my rakers are below the cutters. I'm still very unsure about determining the correct file size to use for sharpening which seems to be equally as important. I want to climb up on the roof of my garage this weekend since there's some tree branches hanging over the top of it that need cutting but my chain is kind of dull right now.

Really hoping spring decides to show its face this weekend so I can get caught up on some outside yard work.

Rednroll

My answer seems to be in here somewhere but just haven't been able to wrap my head around using the chart.
https://blog.stihl.com/practical-kno...ht-round-file/


Unsure why they make this so confusing. So you measure the chain pitch in Metric (mm), divide by 2, then convert that to standard....which then needs to be converted to fractions or decimals to use that chart, which then using the chart gives you a file diameter in metric(mm) and then you choose your file size which are in standard fractional sizes.....Really?

So let me try this out.
18.5mm/2= 9.25mm x .039=.35075in

Now convert that to a fraction...we'll go with 16ths. =5.772/16in

Now use that chart how, with that number?

Then Say F It....let's round up so 5.772/16= 6/16 = 3/8in

3/8in pitch = 5.2mm file according to the chart.

Now convert that back to standard.
5.2mm x .039=.2028in

Convert that to a fraction....let's go with 32nds this time =6.5/32

My current files on hand: 5/32in, 3/16in, and 7/32in. So with all that fuzzy math and measuring I'm now between a 7/32in or 3/16in file size to use. Which is exactly where I started before I went through that nonsense.

resharp001

Usually it's not very difficult. If the manual doesn't provide the specs for the chain, they usually tell you the proper replacement chains, and looking the replacements chain tells you the spec. I've looked at the manual for what you have though.....and it doesn't seem near as friendly in providing that info.