Trade-in advice
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 399
Likes: 1
From: Rogers, AR
I wouldn't mention that it is 2WD. Actually, don't mention anything that could take value away if you are trading it in. They may not even notice it's 2WD, and if they put it in to a computer to look up the value, it's probably going to default to a 4WD as standard equipment and they will have to change it, which they may miss.
I could almost guarantee a salesman wouldn't notice, but the trade-in appraisers know a lot more about vehicles.
I guess my point is, don't do or say anything negative about your car, and you should be able to get at least dealer invoice on the new on. (dealer invoice being another made up number that isn't the actual cost to the dealer).
I could almost guarantee a salesman wouldn't notice, but the trade-in appraisers know a lot more about vehicles.
I guess my point is, don't do or say anything negative about your car, and you should be able to get at least dealer invoice on the new on. (dealer invoice being another made up number that isn't the actual cost to the dealer).
JK Newbie
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Grand Island, NE
I definitely wouldn't advocate "parachuting the trade" or whatever that nonsense is. Actually, it's not nonsense. It's lying. Some car sales people lie, but that doesn't mean it's right to use the same tactics. You are there to represent your best interests and to fact-check everything a dealer tells you. Hardly anyone buying a car takes notes, except for the sales person. Take your own notes. Do your own calculations. None of this is strategy, it's about you being prepared and educated to complete a fairly large financial transaction on your own behalf. In a fast-paced deal, was that scribbled number $26,681, or was it $26,861? Maybe it was a clerical error, or maybe the sales person just bought themselves a $180 bar tab on your dime. Doesn't matter. If you weren't paying attention, it's money in the dealer's favor.
The best "strategy" I can tell you for buying a car is to put your best foot forward. Be genuine and honest, but do not give away unnecessary information. State your intentions clearly. Act professionally. Bring someone uninterested in the deal to observe, take notes, or fact check for you. Observe the deal as the whole transaction--every part counts. Interest rate, terms, payment, down payment, trade value, purchase price, tax, etc. Know exactly the car you want to buy in advance, bring your own financing or know exactly what you qualify for, know all rebates and incentives available, do your research to see if the dealer is trying to dump the car online by stacking dealer cash on the hood. Print out the ad and bring it in. If the sales person is being unprofessional, or is taking excessively long with "let me talk to my manager" --just invite the manager to come talk to you where you are sitting.
Nobody robs a car dealer through a "good deal". Most incredible deals, aren't. Buying new vehicles and trading old ones costs money. Your best bet is for an equitable transaction--You drive away in a new car you love on the best and most beneficial terms available to you, and the dealer makes some money too.
The last bit...Do not brag online about your car deal if you are artifically inflating or deflating the number at which you bought or sold your vehicle. There are more than plenty of people on here that got absolutely pussy-whipped and snowed during their car deal around here, but who writes about that?!
Good luck...you may be an expert car buyer, but for everyone else, it's free advice. With empasis on free
JK Super Freak
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,564
Likes: 7
From: United States
I've never worked in automotive sales, or in any kind of sales. But if you think there's bad advice contained therein, please feel free to point it out. The above is my experience of having bought/sold many vehicles through dealers.
JK Freak
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, SC
The numbers in KBB, Edmunds, NADA, Black Book, etc are just averages of what is reported. The trade in value or the value of anything really is exactly what someone else will pay you for it. Go to three different dealerships and you'll get three different numbers. Keep in mind that their goal is to pay you as little as they can for yours and get as much as they can for theirs. Some are better at it than others and some deal in higher volume/ less profit per deal than others. It pays to shop around and get quotes from every dealer within a reasonable distance. Just make sure everything is apples to apples.
I never trade in cars. I've bought and sold a bunch both privately and when working in the business. Aside from some weird tax stuff in some states, you'll always do better selling your vehicle outright rather than trading it, assuming you know how to advertise it. Trades are either put on the used car lot at big markup or sold to a wholesaler who auctions them off. In either case, the dealership has to low ball you not to lose their ass. If you think you got good money for your trade, then you're getting screwed somewhere else in the deal. Google 4 square car deal for just one example how.
I never trade in cars. I've bought and sold a bunch both privately and when working in the business. Aside from some weird tax stuff in some states, you'll always do better selling your vehicle outright rather than trading it, assuming you know how to advertise it. Trades are either put on the used car lot at big markup or sold to a wholesaler who auctions them off. In either case, the dealership has to low ball you not to lose their ass. If you think you got good money for your trade, then you're getting screwed somewhere else in the deal. Google 4 square car deal for just one example how.
Last edited by JohnnyQuik; Jul 2, 2013 at 02:07 PM.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Chatsworth, CA
Thanks everyone, truely appreciate the help. To be completely honest, there is a good reason I'm trading in the car instead of selling it privately. There's a computer chip (forgot the technical name) that's malfunctioning. Actually found out about it on here. Basically the car will only start 50% of the time, BUT if it doesnt start, you put it into Neutral and it starts right up every time. Called the dealer awhile ago to have it fixed and they said it wasnt covered in the warranty. Told me it would cost $800 for them to drop the transmission, and replace the $12 chip that determines if the car is in Park, Neutral, etc during startup. I obviously wasnt going to pay $800 for this, knowing I was going to be getting a new vehicle. Also don't think anyone would buy it, knowing that they would have to put in $800 in order for it to start correctly. Thats why I was hoping to dump it off on the dealer and let them figure it out.
JK Newbie
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Grand Island, NE
I actually agree with bringing in someone neutral for taking notes. Good idea.
My methods are the way they are because I've been screwed in the past by dealers and decided to always do my research, pick out the exact vehicle before contacting the lot, and doing everything in my power to get the best deal for myself possible.
Oh and on a side note, when it comes to the sale of new vehicles, even if the dealership let's everything go for invoice price (what they played the manufacturer for it) they still make money. They get what's called "dealer kickback'
So as long as a purchase is made, the dealer is making a profit
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: Memphis, TN
First thing that is going to happen when you say trade in or sell to a dealer, they are going to pull the car fax on it from the VIN.. They'll know it's 2WD without even lifting it's tail to see.. That's the part that's really gonna screw you..
The salesman may be the guy that gives you the numbers of what's being offered, but he's not the one that's coming up with the number. The guy that comes up with the number is prolly been doing this a LONG time and knows what he's doing. First thing he'll notice is LineX and drop you $500 to a grand for it.. Something he knows he can fix with $100 worth of new plastic if needed. He's going to drive it, start and stop a few times, get out walk around it, crawl under it if he's good, looking for mismatched wreck damage and welds and paint overspray. ESPECIALLY since that Linex could be covering up something. He's going to look for any mods that have been done that could have been done wrong or even if done right will wear out faster than a stock rig.
Best thing you can do.. Put a 2" buget boost on it, some new 35" AT tires with chrome wheels, find someone unloading some unlinex'd parts for next to nothing either here or on Craigslist, fix that $28 tranny part yourself, have it professionally detailed and park it across the street from the local high school with a for sale sign in the window. You're gonna put about $2500 into it and you'll get $5000 more than you'd get trade-in..
The salesman may be the guy that gives you the numbers of what's being offered, but he's not the one that's coming up with the number. The guy that comes up with the number is prolly been doing this a LONG time and knows what he's doing. First thing he'll notice is LineX and drop you $500 to a grand for it.. Something he knows he can fix with $100 worth of new plastic if needed. He's going to drive it, start and stop a few times, get out walk around it, crawl under it if he's good, looking for mismatched wreck damage and welds and paint overspray. ESPECIALLY since that Linex could be covering up something. He's going to look for any mods that have been done that could have been done wrong or even if done right will wear out faster than a stock rig.
Best thing you can do.. Put a 2" buget boost on it, some new 35" AT tires with chrome wheels, find someone unloading some unlinex'd parts for next to nothing either here or on Craigslist, fix that $28 tranny part yourself, have it professionally detailed and park it across the street from the local high school with a for sale sign in the window. You're gonna put about $2500 into it and you'll get $5000 more than you'd get trade-in..
JK Freak
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, SC
No bad advice, just giving you a hard time
Oh and on a side note, when it comes to the sale of new vehicles, even if the dealership let's everything go for invoice price (what they played the manufacturer for it) they still make money. They get what's called "dealer kickback'
So as long as a purchase is made, the dealer is making a profit
Oh and on a side note, when it comes to the sale of new vehicles, even if the dealership let's everything go for invoice price (what they played the manufacturer for it) they still make money. They get what's called "dealer kickback'
So as long as a purchase is made, the dealer is making a profit
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, Pa
Find out if your state credits you the sales tax on a trade in. When I traded in my 09 for a 12, there was about $1, 500 in taxes I didn't have to pay because I did a trade in. When you factor that in,private sell wouldn't have saved me any money. This was in PA, not all states do this. If you private sell you don't get the discount. Its also nice not having to deal with the wierdos on craigslist. Like many have said the market will determine the price of your Jeep, if you get no offers your price is too high. If gou get 10 offers your price is to low. Most dealerships will give you a trade in value in like 15 minutes. Its ushually a fair price point, add 10-15% to that for private sale.