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Using a Beam Torque wrench for the wheels?

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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 05:56 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
We didn't have digital torque wrenches. I would imagine the inner workings of the adjuster (ramp, spring, etc.) would be subject to the same limitations, though.

Does your digital still have a click (break away) when you reach the torque?
Is the digital display only for setting the torque?
No break away, and digital display is for setting, and reading the torque applied.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 06:02 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by GoodysGotaCuda
No break away, and digital display is for setting, and reading the torque applied.
Ah. So it must have a strain gauge in it.

I called where I worked. They still have no digital torque wrenches. Lots of other measuring tools went to digital while I was there. The torque wrenches have not, for some reason.
It's a military aircraft maintenance environment I have been referring to.
They are very strict with measuring tools, and everything else, for that matter.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 06:05 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
Ah. So it must have a strain gauge in it.

I called where I worked. They still have no digital torque wrenches. Lots of other measuring tools went to digital while I was there. The torque wrenches have not, for some reason.
It's a military aircraft maintenance environment I have been referring to.
They are very strict with measuring tools, and everything else, for that matter.
No idea, it just beeps at me. lol. We use them all the time for their ease of angle-torquing fasters as well.

Sorry for the thread-jack! Carry on.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 06:41 AM
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None of the modern Snap On click types require dialing back to zero. That's one of their big selling points. They do however, require calibration.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by RedneckJeep
None of the modern Snap On click types require dialing back to zero. That's one of their big selling points. They do however, require calibration.
x2 RedNeck!

Out of +150 technicans, almost all say about the same thing. I do send a specialist out about once a quarter to calibrate all torque wrenches. $15 bucks is cheap comparied to what can happen on an unproperly torqued head bolt!

Last edited by JK-ADD77; Mar 8, 2010 at 08:59 AM.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 11:24 AM
  #16  
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After having a $200 250ft-lb Craftsman click-style torque wrench fail on me a few months after the 1 year warranty I gave up on the clicker type. I also for the cheaper Beam type and it has worked well so far.

Beam type might not work well on a car since everything is so tight. But with the Jeep, you have much more room to work around with the suspension bolts. I assume that no one is doing engine work here but the clicker is good for tight spaces.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 02:07 PM
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Wheels are one thing, but the beam benders can be pretty difficult to look at when you're putting all of your might into applying 125 pounds of torque while laying under your Jeep installing a lift or control arms.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 02:58 PM
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Looks like the topic got off-hand a little....no biggie.

Just want to make sure that everyone agrees with my choice in a beam torque wrench.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 03:31 PM
  #19  
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I have been using beam type craftsman torque wrench for years. I would never use a clicker for critical stuff unless I could get a calibration check done on it. They have movable wear items, a beam does not.

I do my wheels with my beam and used to rebuild several engines and it is not difficult to read the numbers on the scale. Ok at least when I was younger, now I need glasses.

Beam yes, clicker no with out calibration checks.
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 06:31 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by RedneckJeep
None of the modern Snap On click types require dialing back to zero. That's one of their big selling points. They do however, require calibration.
That is is a very nice feature of the Snap On unit. That is one of the very few Snap On products I splurged on. Everything else is Craftsman or HF including an old Craftsman 1/2 beam wrench I've had for a very long time.
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