What kind of oil do you run?
11-03-2007, 09:51 AM
#22
JK Freak
I've always used Mobil1 untill I got this JK..
after joining this forum, I learned about Royal Purple...
Now I have Royal Purple 5W-20 running in my jeeps veins.
after joining this forum, I learned about Royal Purple...
Now I have Royal Purple 5W-20 running in my jeeps veins.
11-05-2007, 08:12 AM
#23
JK Newbie
Join Date: May 2007
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I see several of you prefer Mobile 1. I have a 94 chevy silverado Z-71 4x4 which has been on Mobile 1 for all of its 150,000 miles until last week. The Mobile 1 oil will look dirty fairly quick, I guess that since it is a "detergent type" oil this is why. I have a rod knock for a second or two when I first start it. This has been going on for awhile. I guess for me the extra cost for the Mobile 1 just does not seem to be worth it and I am not sold that it is any better than regular oil. I have run Castrol in all of my vehicles (except the chevy) since the mid 1970's doing all my own changes. I have 290,000 miles on my cherokee with the original engine....no knocks at all. I will stick with my castrol, it has yet to let me down.
11-05-2007, 08:40 AM
#24
Amsoil Remote bypass system and Amsoil lubs.
Bypass Filter page
I'm using the setup on the left in my Ram with slightly smaller filters. The JK will be getting the setup on the right with the pre-oiler. Hardest part is finding a good place to mount these things. On my Ram, I did it inside the frame rail on the passenger side. When I get the JK, it's going to have to be more out of the way, but still vertical and accessable. We'll see when the time comes.
By-pass filters work like this: One of the two filters is a 'normal' filter only larger to last the year long drain intervals that top quality synthetic can run. The other filter is the bypass. As the oil is pumped to the filter, most goes into the 'regular' filter and into the engine. Some gets bled off to the bypass which filters much more finely (so much so that if you were to use the media in a 'regular' filter it would not have enough flow to keep the engine lubed.)
This extra filtration pulls out the really small stuff from the oil making sure that your lubes are as contamination free as possible. Also, since the system adds more than a quart of capacity, your oil doesn't have to work as hard.
Has been keeping my 1996 Dodge Ram V-10 running like a top for over 11 years with only 14 oil changes.
As for oils... The following is just my opinion...
Amsoil and Mogul are the only brands that create 100% synthetic oils. Every other synthetic takes a shortcut somewhere and uses a non-engineered component. Does it really matter? Probably not, but if you're spending the Money, why get less?
Race oils like Torco, Royal Purple, and such were engineered for extreme durability in short periods of time. ie, Race Conditions. Their base has a comparitively low TBN than many of the 'average' synthetics and tend to wear out over the long haul as a result. You don't see Royal Purple offering 25,000 and 35,000 mile drain interval recomendations. There is a reason.
The Corvette, Viper and many other high end cars come with synthetic as a factory fill. There is no reason to break in an engine before switching. In fact, I plan to install my remote filters and synthetic in the 600-800 mile range. Long enough to ensure 99%+ of the break in wear is complete but before any real destructive wear is created.
Does extended drains void the warranty? NOPE. By federal law the manufacturer or their agent (dealer) need to PROVE that a failure of lubrication resulted in the warrenty claim to do that. And generally if that happens, the warrenty that comes with the oil would then cover you. Although I've never heard of a premium oil having to make good on that if the customer used the product as directed. (there was a case where the customer never changed a filter, but that's a real "DUH")
In any case, I find changing all my vehicles oil in the spring takes a good afternoon, but I save myself the hassle of going to a 'quickie' place and the incompetance associated with those places. Do the math yourself. Over the lifetime of the vehicle, does a bypass setup and once a year changes cost or save you $$? Perhaps running the same truck for over 11 years is unusual, but I've passed the $1000 mark in my savings.
Bypass Filter page
I'm using the setup on the left in my Ram with slightly smaller filters. The JK will be getting the setup on the right with the pre-oiler. Hardest part is finding a good place to mount these things. On my Ram, I did it inside the frame rail on the passenger side. When I get the JK, it's going to have to be more out of the way, but still vertical and accessable. We'll see when the time comes.
By-pass filters work like this: One of the two filters is a 'normal' filter only larger to last the year long drain intervals that top quality synthetic can run. The other filter is the bypass. As the oil is pumped to the filter, most goes into the 'regular' filter and into the engine. Some gets bled off to the bypass which filters much more finely (so much so that if you were to use the media in a 'regular' filter it would not have enough flow to keep the engine lubed.)
This extra filtration pulls out the really small stuff from the oil making sure that your lubes are as contamination free as possible. Also, since the system adds more than a quart of capacity, your oil doesn't have to work as hard.
Has been keeping my 1996 Dodge Ram V-10 running like a top for over 11 years with only 14 oil changes.
As for oils... The following is just my opinion...
Amsoil and Mogul are the only brands that create 100% synthetic oils. Every other synthetic takes a shortcut somewhere and uses a non-engineered component. Does it really matter? Probably not, but if you're spending the Money, why get less?
Race oils like Torco, Royal Purple, and such were engineered for extreme durability in short periods of time. ie, Race Conditions. Their base has a comparitively low TBN than many of the 'average' synthetics and tend to wear out over the long haul as a result. You don't see Royal Purple offering 25,000 and 35,000 mile drain interval recomendations. There is a reason.
The Corvette, Viper and many other high end cars come with synthetic as a factory fill. There is no reason to break in an engine before switching. In fact, I plan to install my remote filters and synthetic in the 600-800 mile range. Long enough to ensure 99%+ of the break in wear is complete but before any real destructive wear is created.
Does extended drains void the warranty? NOPE. By federal law the manufacturer or their agent (dealer) need to PROVE that a failure of lubrication resulted in the warrenty claim to do that. And generally if that happens, the warrenty that comes with the oil would then cover you. Although I've never heard of a premium oil having to make good on that if the customer used the product as directed. (there was a case where the customer never changed a filter, but that's a real "DUH")
In any case, I find changing all my vehicles oil in the spring takes a good afternoon, but I save myself the hassle of going to a 'quickie' place and the incompetance associated with those places. Do the math yourself. Over the lifetime of the vehicle, does a bypass setup and once a year changes cost or save you $$? Perhaps running the same truck for over 11 years is unusual, but I've passed the $1000 mark in my savings.
02-22-2011, 06:15 PM
#27
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Barnegat New Jersey
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Never neglect your oil changes. I had a Cherokee that between my father and I put on 389,000 miles and never had any issues.
