Cupping tires
Took my stock 2016 sport at 60k in for an alignment because it’s drifting to the right pretty bad and the steering wheel shakes a little bit. They told me the alignment was fine but I noticed the tires are cupping. The rear are slightly cupping but it’s mainly in the front. I’ve never dealt with cupping before, I did a little research but figured ide look for an opinion on here. I have aftermarket rims with crossleader wildtiger t01 tires that came on the car when I bought it. I’m going to get new tires and throw on some fox 2.0s and hope that fixes it. Does anyone have any other suggestions to try if that fails?
Mud terrain tires cup on the fronts of our jeeps if you don't rotate them every 5-10k miles. I too was surprised when I saw it the first time on my jeep. But it's likely as simple as that. I have much better luck with AT tires, but MT have cupped on me if not rotated.
I can't recall ever seeing talk about that tire and am not familiar with it. That always seems like an issue that once started is very hard to reverse, and typically you can't really spot it until it is too late. Around me I recall a lot of folks having cupping issues on the factory rubicon tires back in the day and it seems less common with larger tires, to me at least. One hypothesis I had, and I could just be blowing smoke out my ass, is that since they were a factory tire/size people ran the "suggested" pressure in them but that was simply too high in the real world. When people would move to a larger tire they'd end up researching and running a lower, more appropriate pressure which was more suitable and hence didn't have the same cupping issues. There just seems to be so many variables with cupping issues though (suspension, tires, pressures, alignment....). What size tire do you have on the jeep and what kind of psi do you run? Does that still have the factory shocks on it at 60k?
I can't recall ever seeing talk about that tire and am not familiar with it. That always seems like an issue that once started is very hard to reverse, and typically you can't really spot it until it is too late. Around me I recall a lot of folks having cupping issues on the factory rubicon tires back in the day and it seems less common with larger tires, to me at least. One hypothesis I had, and I could just be blowing smoke out my ass, is that since they were a factory tire/size people ran the "suggested" pressure in them but that was simply too high in the real world. When people would move to a larger tire they'd end up researching and running a lower, more appropriate pressure which was more suitable and hence didn't have the same cupping issues. There just seems to be so many variables with cupping issues though (suspension, tires, pressures, alignment....). What size tire do you have on the jeep and what kind of psi do you run? Does that still have the factory shocks on it at 60k?
Mud terrain tires cup on the fronts of our jeeps if you don't rotate them every 5-10k miles. I too was surprised when I saw it the first time on my jeep. But it's likely as simple as that. I have much better luck with AT tires, but MT have cupped on me if not rotated.
35 psi is pretty high for a 35" tires, and if those are "E" rated like some of the sizes I'm pulling up in quick searches than even more so given such a stiff sidewall. Most people would run a 35 in the 30psi cold range +/-. If you do buy new tires you might do a chaulk test on the tread and decide on a pressure to run. At 60k miles factory shocks could very likely be nearing the end. I've run Fox shocks for years.....bit stiff for some folks, like Bilstein 5100s, but they work for my use.
35 psi is pretty high for a 35" tires, and if those are "E" rated like some of the sizes I'm pulling up in quick searches than even more so given such a stiff sidewall. Most people would run a 35 in the 30psi cold range +/-. If you do buy new tires you might do a chaulk test on the tread and decide on a pressure to run. At 60k miles factory shocks could very likely be nearing the end. I've run Fox shocks for years.....bit stiff for some folks, like Bilstein 5100s, but they work for my use.
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A lot of folks turn the TPMS off completely. Some of the programmers can adjust the warning threshold down. I have mine set to 22psi before I get a light cuz I still like the warning. If you don't have a programmer, Jscan app is really a nice tool as both a programmer and diagnostics device and is pretty cheap ($20 for a licence and ~$15 for a BT OBDII dongle).
A lot of folks turn the TPMS off completely. Some of the programmers can adjust the warning threshold down. I have mine set to 22psi before I get a light cuz I still like the warning. If you don't have a programmer, Jscan app is really a nice tool as both a programmer and diagnostics device and is pretty cheap ($20 for a licence and ~$15 for a BT OBDII dongle).






