$2 Colder A/C mod
#1
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
$2 Colder A/C mod
Here in Texas it gets hot and my Air conditioner was cutting it. My A/C worked OK but, not cold enough. You may not need to do this mod if you roll topless/doorless or live up north.
I just wanted to share my results with you. Now, the temperature coming out of my vents is about 13 degrees colder and sits right around 42 degrees. Feel free to post up and share your results or input.
In short, you will be splicing in a resister across two wires that go to the evaporator temperature sensor.
I ended up using a 20K ¼-watt resistor that I picked up at a local electronics supply. I tried different values to achieve the coldest temperature without it freezing up.
I started with a potentiometer or pot and turned the dial until I achieved the desired results. You don’t need the pot, it was just easier for me since I didn’t have a base value to work off of. You could even install the pot on the dash to adjust on the fly. I am still not sure if I would need/want to do that though. Once I achieved the desired result, I just measured the resistance across the terminals and went shopping for my resistor.
The thermistor/sensor from the factory could vary so the resistor value needed will also slightly vary. You may have to go with a lower or higher value. The mod is easy enough to try with different values. I would try the 20K to start with since my choice was conservative.
The pack of 10 was only $2.
Here we go:
Remove the lower trim piece below the dash by releasing the plastic retainers. I used a plastic trim tool to avoid any scratches
Remove the two screws (referenced as #2 )holding the instrument cluster bezel and pry it of once done.
Remove the 4 screws that secure the instrument cluster in place
We will be working with the black and brown connectors
The first wire you will be jumping the resistor across. Dark blue wire with light green tracer
Looking from the front of the connector it is pin 7
The second wire is dark blue with a dark green tracer
Looking from the front of the connector it is Pin 14
I will post a pic of the resistor spliced in once I finish it up and have some time.
I just wanted to share my results with you. Now, the temperature coming out of my vents is about 13 degrees colder and sits right around 42 degrees. Feel free to post up and share your results or input.
In short, you will be splicing in a resister across two wires that go to the evaporator temperature sensor.
I ended up using a 20K ¼-watt resistor that I picked up at a local electronics supply. I tried different values to achieve the coldest temperature without it freezing up.
I started with a potentiometer or pot and turned the dial until I achieved the desired results. You don’t need the pot, it was just easier for me since I didn’t have a base value to work off of. You could even install the pot on the dash to adjust on the fly. I am still not sure if I would need/want to do that though. Once I achieved the desired result, I just measured the resistance across the terminals and went shopping for my resistor.
The thermistor/sensor from the factory could vary so the resistor value needed will also slightly vary. You may have to go with a lower or higher value. The mod is easy enough to try with different values. I would try the 20K to start with since my choice was conservative.
The pack of 10 was only $2.
Here we go:
Remove the lower trim piece below the dash by releasing the plastic retainers. I used a plastic trim tool to avoid any scratches
Remove the two screws (referenced as #2 )holding the instrument cluster bezel and pry it of once done.
Remove the 4 screws that secure the instrument cluster in place
We will be working with the black and brown connectors
The first wire you will be jumping the resistor across. Dark blue wire with light green tracer
Looking from the front of the connector it is pin 7
The second wire is dark blue with a dark green tracer
Looking from the front of the connector it is Pin 14
I will post a pic of the resistor spliced in once I finish it up and have some time.
Last edited by shockwaveaz; 08-28-2011 at 05:09 PM.
#3
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
I am still testing with a temp install, I have not installed it properly with heat shrink and solder. After my road trip coming up I will and or decided if I will be using an adjustable pot.
Also, can a mod move my post to the correct forum. Thanks.
Also, can a mod move my post to the correct forum. Thanks.
Last edited by shockwaveaz; 08-28-2011 at 05:00 PM.
#5
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
I guess only time will tell.
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#6
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2010
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The easiest way to make your a/c colder is to under fill it by a ounce or two. Very good mechanic friend of mine told me that. Thought he was nuts until he did it to mine.
#7
JK Super Freak
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#8
JK Enthusiast
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I am a refrigeration mechanic. I would not perform either of these mods on my jeep. Neither the resistor install nor the undercharging method.
This is simply my own opinion based on the experience I have had in the industry and my own attained knowledge of refrigeration and it's applications and capabilities.
Your compressor generates heat from mechanical movement. If the designed refrigerant capacity is not there to help remove heat then it overheats. Overheating causes seals to not last refrigerant break down and oil breakdown.
If your compressor runs for extended periods in higher than normal ambient conditions the same situation happens. The jk already has heat issues under the hood and you live in Texas. This 2$ install might lead to. 1000$ aev heat reduction hood..... I'm not saying thats a bad thing though. I just got mine installed and love it. Mpg has jumped to 16.5 stock 2008 rubicon.
I would be curios to see operating conditions however with my aev hood gauges hooked up to the system and temp sensors for proper superheat calculations. Likely the results of the test would not please me Too much effort for my own peace of mind though and my ac works fine for the weather I see.
This is simply my own opinion based on the experience I have had in the industry and my own attained knowledge of refrigeration and it's applications and capabilities.
Your compressor generates heat from mechanical movement. If the designed refrigerant capacity is not there to help remove heat then it overheats. Overheating causes seals to not last refrigerant break down and oil breakdown.
If your compressor runs for extended periods in higher than normal ambient conditions the same situation happens. The jk already has heat issues under the hood and you live in Texas. This 2$ install might lead to. 1000$ aev heat reduction hood..... I'm not saying thats a bad thing though. I just got mine installed and love it. Mpg has jumped to 16.5 stock 2008 rubicon.
I would be curios to see operating conditions however with my aev hood gauges hooked up to the system and temp sensors for proper superheat calculations. Likely the results of the test would not please me Too much effort for my own peace of mind though and my ac works fine for the weather I see.
Last edited by SKTN Rubi; 08-29-2011 at 08:23 PM.
#9
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
Good info. Although, I and many others have been doing this to vehicles for a while and personally speaking I have not had any problems.
I was pretty conservative with my temp choice. I'm honestly not worried about it.
Just sharing info as you have. Thanks for taking the time to give your input.
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
I was pretty conservative with my temp choice. I'm honestly not worried about it.
Just sharing info as you have. Thanks for taking the time to give your input.
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk