1" Bodylift Rear Gap Elimination
05-14-2010, 07:36 AM
#71
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Sure, you'll need to remove the lower bolts from the stock center brackets in order to move up the bumper, otherwise it won't move up...
Once you remove the side brackets, the lower center bolts, and move the bumper up via the side brackets and drilling a new hole into the frame, you will see that the center brackets are no longer enough to reach down to the hole anymore, correct?
However, the center brackets extend down to jusssst above the original mounting hole... close enough that when you rethread the center lower bolts, with big washers on them, the washers themself will hold the brackets tight against the frame. Also, the center bracket will kind of sit on top of the bolt. In other words, the bolt is no longer through the bracket hole, but the bolt provides a place for the bracket to "sit" and the washers hold it tight enough against the frame if you torque it down good... If you aren't comfortable with it, get some even bigger washers from the hardware.
That's all I did and I crawled under to check to see they didn't "slide off" or whatever, and its still mounted fine.
You could easily fab up some sort of extended bracket I am sure, but wasn't necessary IMO. The sides hold it pretty well and the center washers, torque tight don't allow the center to move.
Once you remove the side brackets, the lower center bolts, and move the bumper up via the side brackets and drilling a new hole into the frame, you will see that the center brackets are no longer enough to reach down to the hole anymore, correct?
However, the center brackets extend down to jusssst above the original mounting hole... close enough that when you rethread the center lower bolts, with big washers on them, the washers themself will hold the brackets tight against the frame. Also, the center bracket will kind of sit on top of the bolt. In other words, the bolt is no longer through the bracket hole, but the bolt provides a place for the bracket to "sit" and the washers hold it tight enough against the frame if you torque it down good... If you aren't comfortable with it, get some even bigger washers from the hardware.
That's all I did and I crawled under to check to see they didn't "slide off" or whatever, and its still mounted fine.
You could easily fab up some sort of extended bracket I am sure, but wasn't necessary IMO. The sides hold it pretty well and the center washers, torque tight don't allow the center to move.
05-14-2010, 06:38 PM
#73
Also to keep on topic with this thread notice the bumper at the back has the rear gap eliminated
05-19-2010, 06:04 PM
#74
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Thank you for this write up ! installed a body lift a few days ago and hated the look of the rear. This thread was alot of help and just so incredibly simple to do. Took me about an hour with nothing more than a few tools.
looks alot better now.
I notched out the two center bumper brackets and am not worried about the strength at all.
looks alot better now.
I notched out the two center bumper brackets and am not worried about the strength at all.
05-19-2010, 06:20 PM
#75
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Ive always wondered about this. Two additional questions. 1. What about the rear hitch? Does anybody have a shot of it after this mod? 2. Side rails (as someone already mentioned), specifically the rubicon rails, how do they look post body lift?
05-19-2010, 07:41 PM
#76
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I have the hitch no pic today sorry perhaps later, but it looks normal actually no big space between the top of it and the bottom of bumper. My hitch is stock and you can just barely see the steel bar of it, good news is it will now take the abuse from hits from below, rather than the crappy plastic.
the Rubicon stock side rock rails are mounted to the body so they don't change at all, they rise with the body lift.
the Rubicon stock side rock rails are mounted to the body so they don't change at all, they rise with the body lift.
06-17-2010, 08:12 AM
#77
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I have the hitch no pic today sorry perhaps later, but it looks normal actually no big space between the top of it and the bottom of bumper. My hitch is stock and you can just barely see the steel bar of it, good news is it will now take the abuse from hits from below, rather than the crappy plastic.
the Rubicon stock side rock rails are mounted to the body so they don't change at all, they rise with the body lift.
the Rubicon stock side rock rails are mounted to the body so they don't change at all, they rise with the body lift.
08-01-2010, 03:41 PM
#78
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worked perfect, easy fix. Thanks for the help! Did/cut the inner shift boot but the outer shift boot seems to still want to pull out of gear in 2,4,6,R. I dont think its the inner boot this time b/c i goes in relatively easy. I can slide the boot (outer) all the way down but it wants to ride up after a couple minutes of driving... was thinking of zip-tie or super glue on the stick... i dont know, let me know if anyone has any ideas! Again, awesome and easy fix!
