A couple days ago i was looking at the swaybar links in the front of my jeep and noticed that they were strait, not like the TJ links. So i thought that i would try something out. Its a pretty simple fab that anyone that can weld should be able to do. The whole process took me about an hour, and thats including getting all the tools out and putting them away.

Tools needed.... 18MM rachet, 18MM combo wrench, 3/4" combo wrench, grinder, drill w/ 1/4" bit, and a welder (110V or 220V)

Parts needed..... (2) 1/4" pins, disired length of 1/2" I.D. seamless tubing

1) Take the links off the swaybar completely (i cut it while it was still conected and it was a pain in the ass)

2) They are 3 inches long so cut it about an inch from the top so you have plenty of meat to drill into the bottom.



3) Weld the desired length of tubing to the top portion of the link. be sure to do this in about 4 different steps to make sure you dont burn up the grease for these have no grease fittings. Dip into water immediately.



4) Once welded, slide the lower part of the link into the tube leaving about a half inch on the bottom and mark your desired depth (1). Line up the top bolt and the bottom whole so they are going the same direction, and mark the tubing for drilling (2). Drill them in the same direction as the ball joint and crush sleeve so it doesn't bind up with the axle and bent it. This part is crucial because once the top is welded and the bottom whole is drilled, if the pieces dont line up you wont be able to bolt them back on the vehicle.



5) Drill the whole, paint them so they dont rust, Slide the pin in, bolt them back up, and enjoy your new QUICK DISCO'S!!!! (sorry for the crappy finished pick, it was night time and i took it with my cell phone. But you get the idea.)



**** I havent tested these under severe stress. Ive been driving around town ( i live in the mountains with LOTS of curves) and they seem fine. This is just a test run for me and if you dont feel safe about it, because there isnt a whole lot of material left after drilling, you can cut off the whole solid rod and weld on a thicker piece and use bigger tubing with it.

 

I like all the homebrew soloutions..... And think, you could've paid 100 bucks for that...

 

man i ve been trying to figure this out for awhile too. this was the only thing i could think of too. i really wanted to put a pin in but i can find anything and on the passenger side i don t think you could ever get it off. right now (before i do it like yours) i am working with a local race shop where i get my racing kart parts from to tap some DOM and put in hiem joints. that way they are narrower and i can put in a pin (bullet) we ll see what happens!

great job though! i am not spending $100+ for these damn things! it is rediculous!

 

Why wouldnt you be able to get it off? The last photo is of the passenger side and it slides out just fine. You just have to make sure you drill it parallel to the axel and not front to back, thats were your going to have problems. In the past few days ive flexed it out (with the pins in), enough to lift one of the wheels off the ground and they seem to be holding. There's about an 1/8th inch on either side of the whole on the bottom piece, which doesnt seem like much but since the the 2 pieces dont have much room to play, when connected, there is nowhere for any metal to move so it stays tight. All in all.... for what they are, i like them a lot. Eventually im going to building a beefier pair but these parts were just laying around the house so it only cost me 5 bucks and an hour of my time.

 

OMG you are a f*ing GENIUS !!!

I can't believe i didn't think of this before. wow and its soo easy. Now I have a weekend project to do. =)

Thanks, great job.
Serge.

 

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but this is what I see happening:

1. It will rattle, if not immediately, soon.
2. The holes will elongate.
3. The pin will get thinner where it contacts the tube and inner piece.
4. The pin or the inner piece will break.

Edit to add: It may break at the weld due to metallurgical changes of the link at the weld.

Suspension parts take a constant beating. I just don't see how this will last long. Once broken, it becomes a safety issue!

 

I don't see a biggie here. My friend broke his sway bar links long time ago, he's been driving city/highway without sway bar for at least a year. Never had a problem. If they break, he'll just weld it back up, and problem solved.

 

Sorry, but a disconnected sway bar on the road IS a biggy. You friend has just been lucky.

 

I have a set of stock front sway bar links from a rubicon if you want them pm me.

 

That will rattle eventually - put a zirk on it and fill it with grease.