The Cobra POD - Auxiliary Electrical Control
So I finally had enough time to finish assembling my electrical switches and distribution and got them mounted in the jeep. This setup is based on my friend Rescue1's core connection strategy, i.e. Battery > 150 amp Fuse > 6 Outlet Fuse Block rated at 150 amp total > 6 relays connected to in-dash switches and the individual auxiliary items to be controlled.
I have seen various versions of electrical setups and locations posted in different write-up threads and I used ideas from each of those to come up with this solution. So a big thanks first to those other guys/gals that have taken the time to document what they did. :beer: So, first things first. I had done a similar wiring setup with my friend on my previous 2 door jeep, but one thing that always bothered me was that the relays and fuse block were exposed to the engine bay environment. Not a major deal, but I wanted to box them up and protect them a little. The obvious location for the box, as several others have done, is to put it next to the battery by the existing fuse box, but my solenoid box for my winch was already occupying that area. So, I tested out some options for mounting on top of the fuse box but I found that there wasn't enough room there under the hood. So I moved over to the driver's side of the bay and found a spot behind the windshield washer fluid reservoir. The only issue is the existing mass of electrical cabling along the lower part of that space. So a box placed there would have to float above the cabling and be supported. Technical Requirements -
So this is what I came up with - The Cobra POD Parts List - 150 Amp Fuse and holder + plus 4 ga wire (package deal) - ebay ~$50 6 Scosche SPDT Relays - ebay ~$15 10 ga. wire, about half of a 20 ft spool, autozone - $19 16 ga wire, roughly 20 ft, autozone - ~$10 1 8-position power distribution / barrier strip, radioshack - ~$4 (Note you can use a 6 position they were just out of them that day) Link: www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103229 1 Jumper for above barrier strip, radioshack - ~$2 (this bridges the power from the heated seat fuse tap to all of the switches) Link: www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103227 2 L Brackets bent to shape, Home Depot ~$6 1 Add-a-fuse connection, Autozone - ~$3 Plus several quick connects and end terminations for all of the connections. ~$20 AllElectronics.com order - 10 LRS-30G (12V ROCKER SWITCH W/ GREEN LED - (LRS-30G)) $22.00 (I got a few extras as I have bad experience with the LEDs burning out) 10 SLT-34 (3/4" DIAMETER SPLIT-LOOM TUBING - (SLT-34)) $2.90 10 SLT-12 (1/2" DIA. SPLIT LOOM TUBING - (SLT-12)) $1.90 10 SLT-14 (1/4" SPLIT LOOM TUBING - (SLT-14)) $1.20 10 SLT-38 (3/8" DIA. SPLIT LOOM TUBING - (SLT-38)) $1.50 1 MBF-24 (PROJECT BOX W/ MOUNTING FLANGE, 7.31" X 3.75" X 2.08" - (MBF-24)) $5.45 1 MBF-22 (PROJECT BOX W/ MTNG FLANGE, 6.14" X 2.64" X 1.57" - (MBF-22)) $3.50 50 6225 (1/4" FULLY INSULATED FEMALE, BLUE - (6225)) $5.40 50 9108 (#8 SPADE TERMINAL, RED - (9108)) $3.00 Total = $172.85 Note: The above does include some extra stuff that I bought as I know I will have additional wiring projects. I estimate total cost spent on this project alone was about $150. Which is significantly cheaper than some of the other options I priced out. And this is the end result - https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_-...0/P3310014.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_-...0/P3310013.JPG The support for the POD (drilling that second hole by hand was a PITA!!!)- https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_-...0/P3310015.JPG The guts: (6 position fuse block and relays, the connection wires with blue tape pass from the fuses in the top box through the holes in the "floor" and down into the lower box to power the relays. I tried to find a single project box to fit this space to contain all of the components but nothing fit just right) - https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_-...0/P3300003.JPG The 150 amp fuse (must be placed close to the battery to be effective, the second fuse holder is for my inverter to be installed after I order more 4 ga wire) - https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_-...0/P3310011.JPG The switches and the wiring in the cab / barrier strip w/ jumper (see above for updated link for these items) - https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_-...Q/IMAG0344.jpg And finally, my HID lights connected :ya::ya::ya: (I need to replace one bulb) - https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_-...0/P3310016.JPG Edit: Added a pic of the add-a-fuse connection in the main fuse box. This is the power source for the distribution strip and switches. The add-a-fuse plugs into the empty heated seats fuse position, M8, with its on separate fuse. You should be able to find the M8 position by the fuse layout on the underside of your fuse box cover, or if you can't read yours just google jeep Jk fuse box layout. This slot is only powered when the key is turned to ignition so no chance of draining your battery when you don't have the key in. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_-...2/P4230001.JPG This is what the add-a-fuse looks like. Make sure you get the right size. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_-...500_AA300_.jpg Let me know if you have any questions :thumbsup::beer: |
nice did you build that your self:thumbsup:
|
Originally Posted by Birdog3
(Post 2200387)
nice did you build that your self:thumbsup:
|
Originally Posted by ludski
(Post 2202686)
nice!
i put a d strip in same spot too. except i ran an 8 gauge wire to it. and just split it among the spots i needed. holds 6. using 4 so far. makes things A LOT easier. then having to run out and in of fire wall 1000000 times. |
really nice job man:thumbsup::thumbsup:
|
looks good! :cool:
very clean install |
Originally Posted by JKCobra
(Post 2200332)
So I finally had enough time to finish assembling my electrical switches and distribution and got them mounted in the jeep. This setup is based on my friend Rescue1's core connection strategy, i.e. Battery > 150 amp Fuse > 6 Outlet Fuse Block rated at 150 amp total > 6 relays connected to in-dash switches and the individual auxiliary items to be controlled.
I have seen various versions of electrical setups and locations posted in different write-up threads and I used ideas from each of those to come up with this solution. So a big thanks first to those other guys/gals that have taken the time to document what they did. :beer: So, first things first. I had done a similar wiring setup with my friend on my previous 2 door jeep, but one thing that always bothered me was that the relays and fuse block were exposed to the engine bay environment. Not a major deal, but I wanted to box them up and protect them a little. The obvious location for the box, as several others have done, is to put it next to the battery by the existing fuse box, but my solenoid box for my winch was already occupying that area. So, I tested out some options for mounting on top of the fuse box but I found that there wasn't enough room there under the hood. So I moved over to the driver's side of the bay and found a spot behind the windshield washer fluid reservoir. The only issue is the existing mass of electrical cabling along the lower part of that space. So a box placed there would have to float above the cabling and be supported. Technical Requirements -
So this is what I came up with - The Cobra POD Parts List - 150 Amp Fuse and holder + plus 4 ga wire (package deal) - ebay ~$50 6 Scosche SPDT Relays - ebay ~$15 10 ga. wire, about half of a 20 ft spool, autozone - $19 16 ga wire, roughly 20 ft, autozone - ~$10 1 8-position power distribution strip, radioshack - ~$4 1 Jumper for above strip, radioshack - ~$2 2 L Brackets bent to shape, Home Depot ~$6 Plus several quick connects and end terminations for all of the connections. ~$20 AllElectronics.com order - 10 LRS-30G (12V ROCKER SWITCH W/ GREEN LED - (LRS-30G)) $22.00 (I got a few extras as I have bad experience with the LEDs burning out) 10 SLT-34 (3/4" DIAMETER SPLIT-LOOM TUBING - (SLT-34)) $2.90 10 SLT-12 (1/2" DIA. SPLIT LOOM TUBING - (SLT-12)) $1.90 10 SLT-14 (1/4" SPLIT LOOM TUBING - (SLT-14)) $1.20 10 SLT-38 (3/8" DIA. SPLIT LOOM TUBING - (SLT-38)) $1.50 1 MBF-24 (PROJECT BOX W/ MOUNTING FLANGE, 7.31" X 3.75" X 2.08" - (MBF-24)) $5.45 1 MBF-22 (PROJECT BOX W/ MTNG FLANGE, 6.14" X 2.64" X 1.57" - (MBF-22)) $3.50 50 6225 (1/4" FULLY INSULATED FEMALE, BLUE - (6225)) $5.40 50 9108 (#8 SPADE TERMINAL, RED - (9108)) $3.00 Total = $172.85 Note: The above does include some extra stuff that I bought as I know I will have additional wiring projects. I estimate total cost spent on this project alone was about $150. Which is significantly cheaper than some of the other options I priced out. And this is the end result - https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_-...0/P3310014.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_-...0/P3310013.JPG The support for the POD (drilling that second hole by hand was a PITA!!!)- https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_-...0/P3310015.JPG The guts: (6 position fuse block and relays, the connection wires with blue tape pass from the fuses in the top box through the holes in the "floor" and down into the lower box to power the relays. I tried to find a single project box to fit this space to contain all of the components but nothing fit just right) - https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_-...0/P3300003.JPG The 150 amp fuse (must be placed close to the battery to be effective, the second fuse holder is for my inverter to be installed after I order more 4 ga wire) - https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_-...0/P3310011.JPG The switches and the wiring in the cab / distribution strip - https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_-...Q/IMAG0344.jpg And finally, my HID lights connected :ya::ya::ya: (I need to replace one bulb) - https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_-...0/P3310016.JPG Let me know if you have any questions :thumbsup::beer: |
Originally Posted by Myrt
(Post 2239674)
I have a question about your distribution block near the switches. Is it unnecessary to have fuses on that side of the firewall, or for the switches? I'm wondering why people use the painless blocks then, what the benefit of them is. I'm really nuub at this and the more reading i do the more brain damage i get. thanks.
Basically, you want the fuse to blow as soon as there is an overload, so as close to the battery or change in wire size as possible. If you have a short upstream of the fuse you have the potential for a fire. So as close to the battery as you can reasonably get it. |
Originally Posted by JKCobra
(Post 2239696)
You want your fuse to be as close to the power source as possible. I have a main line fuse close to the battery for the 4 ga power wire and then a 6 way fuse block once the power wire is split off to the 10 ga wire. For the switch distribution strip beside the dash, it is only powered by a 16 gauge wire that taps into the heated seat fuse position in the main fuse block. (There is another write-up on here that describes that connection). This tap is done with an add-a-fuse style blade connector that is fused. This strip provides power to the switches and the remaining connections are really only signal wires from the switches to the relays to turn on the power through the relay to your electrical device. Hence, the high power load wires are never seen in the cab and contained in the engine bay.
Basically, you want the fuse to blow as soon as there is an overload, so as close to the battery or change in wire size as possible. If you have a short upstream of the fuse you have the potential for a fire. So as close to the battery as you can reasonably get it. |
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i just sent you a PM. can you (or anyone really) help me out with my big question mark?? Attachment 152913 |
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