DIY 10' freedom top for 07'-09' latch Mod.
 

First off. All the credit for this needs to go to member enzo319 for his brilliant idea on this fix and the help he gave me. :clap::clap::clap:I figured I'd right up my experiance with it with a few pics. (you can view enzo319's original thread about it here.

Anyone that has purchased a new(10' and up) freedom top for their 07'-09' JK knows it fits exactly except for the front latch and bracket don't even come close to lining up. Here is picture clarifying the latch location change between the new panel latch location and the location of the latch on the older panels:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...comparison.jpg

You can clearly see the gap in the next picture between the latch and the other panel. The panels no longer latch to each other in this location on the new panels. Here is an enlarged view of how the new freedom top panel latch doesn't align with the 07'-08' JK windshield bracket:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ignedlatch.jpg
miss-aligned latch and bracket

This will cause unwanted extra road noise not to mention potential leaking from improper seal. :lame: Well, this is an easy fix. It should take about 30-60 minutes. I'll apologize now for the not so great pics (I took them with my phone), but they get the point across.

What you need for this project:

* 2- #14x1" hex head self taping sheet metal screws.
* touch up paint
* a drill w/ 9/64" and 5/32" drill bits
* Dremel with cutting wheel
* Sand paper or sanding attachment for Dremel
* Exacto knife
* Flat Head Screw driver
* Masking tape
* Measuring tape
* Straight edge


1. First step is your going to want to remove the head interior trim piece to expose the bracket (see pic below). This is very simple to do and really doesn't need much explanation. It quite literally just pulls off. I used a flat head screw driver to help pry the initial part off. Once you get a couple of the snaps to pop off it comes down pretty easily.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...punk/start.jpg
exposed bracket

2. Next take your drill and using the 5/32" drill bit, drill out the center of the rivets holding the bracket in place. After that it should only take a little bit of persuading to get off.

3. Once you remove the bracket you will need to shave a little bit of the holes in the bracket so that the #14 screws will fit through them. (I thought that anything smaller might not be sturdy enough). This can be accomplished using you drill with the 5/32" bit and rubbing it around the edges. You only need to shave it ever so slightly so that the threads don't catch in the hole.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...k/drillout.jpg
The bracket after shaving the wholes

4. After this your ready to mark your spots for the new location. Now when enzo319 did it he used one of the existing holes by just sliding the bracket over to the left by one hole which works fine also. I didn't do this as I wanted the latch to fall in the middle of the bracket and I was afraid that the hole would be to big for the #14 screw to properly tighten down in.

I aligned the latch on the panel with where I wanted the bracket and came up with a measurement of 3" from the left edge to the center of the existing left hole (See pick below). after that I simply marked where I needed the holes using the bracket as a guide.

Once you have the holes marked drill out pilot holes for your #14 sheet metal screws using a 9/64" drill bit. Now that you have that done you can go ahead and screw your bracket into it's new location using your two #14x1" self taping sheet metal screws. When your done it should look something like this:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...k/attach-1.jpg
re-attached bracket

5. After I had that re-installed, I taped it up and sprayed some touch-up paint to hide those ugly screws and existing wholes.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...k/touch-up.jpg
A little bit of touch up paint

6. Now for the Interior trim piece. Take a length of masking tape and tape the side of the piece that you are going to cut. using a tape measure, pen, and a straight edge, measure over 3" and trace where you want the new opening to be. Using this method insures a clean cut and prevents accidental scuffing. It should look similar to this when your done:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...punk/Taped.jpg
taped and ready to cut

5. Make your cut. Using a Dremel with a cut off wheel attachment make a cut using your guide. Don't cut it exactly on the line, instead leave a 1/16th of an inch or around that so that you have some material to sand down and smooth out.

now you can probably use a sander or hand sand it to finish it from here, but if you have a sanding and buffing attachment for your Dremel, go that route. I used a sanding wheel and buffing stone attachment I had for my Dremel. Take your time and work it till it's nice and straight and smooth. You can then use an exacto knife to trim off any remaining pieces or melted burrs left by the cutting and sanding. I then just wiped it down with some armor-all.

When your done it should look something like this:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...idpunk/cut.jpg
Ready to be re-installed

6. After that simply re-install the trim piece in your jeep. Make sure to align the edges in the side trim pieces first before pushing it in, it makes it a lot easier... trust me. :doh:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...re-install.jpg
Good to go!

And there you have it! a 2010 Freedom top good to go on your 07'-09' JK. Hope you guys find this helpful. :thumbs:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...k/finished.jpg
Now isn't that better! :2thumbs:

I applaud all the hard work you did......

But that loop is not for the latch, thats the windshield tie down loop (for when you lower the window, you lash it down with the loop on our hood).

The short arm on the latch is supposed to cross over the left and right side of the freedom top....and not the windshield.

Like so...
Attachment 93631

Kind of funny....really.....

the 2010's are different then the older versions dude. looks like the OP got it right. enjoy the new and uber quiet top (compared to the soft top).

Nope.....I'm pretty certain that loop is for the windshield tie down....had the same loop on a 93 YJ, same loop on my 2008, and its centered with the loop on your hood (in between the two bump stops your windshield is meant to rest on).

The latch is positioned wrong, the fat part is the handle, while the small part is supposed to cross over to the adjacent panel.

Funky mod though, and he did some great work....

Here, check out this JK how to
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...om-top-removal

I know the 2010 is "slightly different", but I can assure you the latch was not "supposed" to attach to that loop.

Not that its not an innovative mod!

Nice fab-up... but my question is why? did someone want to trade you a colored one for a non-colored one?

or did you buy one? the next question is if you bought one wouldnt it be cheaper and easier just to buy a used old one and get it painted, than a brand new one?

Atticka, 2010 has a redesigned hard top that allows the forward latch to attach to the footman loop. The footman loop on 2010+ jeeps are off center to attach to the hard top latch...


What the op did is awesome and if I ever upgrade to the 2010 freedom panels I will surely follow his write up.

Got it!! It all makes sense now...

Apologies! I'm eating my words :blush:

Atticka- I can guarantee you that in my '09 JKU, the small part of the latch goes over the metal hoop and that is what holds the freedom top tight to the windshield frame.

it would be my guess that chrysler was trying to get a better seal against water and wind noise with the reposition in 2010, vs the older design. i imagine the hard tops are the same up north on the 2010's+.

this is true... so only on the 07's and 08's would need the mod.

I'm so confused. In my '09, which I bought in Feb. of '09, the metal loop is left of the joint of the two freedom panels.

Thanks fadeout! I was starting to think I was crazy.

That's only for the older freedom tops. Chrysler decided to change that in the 09' and up models for good reason. The seal in the front is much better and the wind noise is a lot quieter in the newer tops. I did a side by side comparison of the older and newer panels to clarify. You can clearly see the difference in location. I will also edit the OP to include this to clarify any confusion.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...comparison.jpg

I was having a very difficult time finding a used hard top in my area and came across a great deal for a new OEM one. I pretty much paid what I would have paid for a used one and I'd much rather have new over used. :thumbsup:

I also like the idea of the better attachment in the front. Having ridden in an older freedom top I can tell you the new ones are much quieter and have a great seal to the windshield in front. That's a huge plus for me since my soft top use to leak around the windshield.:mad:

My apologies, I thought the change was made in the 2010 and up model years. :doh: Apparently they made the change starting in 09'. It was definitely a change for the better...

As best as I can tell, yes. Can someone back me up on that?

As far as alleviating that wind noise, this will definitely do that. It is a lot quieter with the newer panels.

09 2dr hardtop
 

mine was built 09 feb.and has the same fix as a 10. no leaks even through drive through car washes/:clap:

Awesome job Demon Hunter. :beer: cheers! So far mine is super quiet and i have no rain & water issues. Easy mod huh?

I also have been planning on doing this mod since i picked up my hardtop. We had some weather stripping with an adhesive back on it laying in the garage to i used some it it to cut back on the wind noise and to aid in stopping leaks and it has worked for the time being, but before winter hits i'd like to move that loop over so the top is completely sealed.:yup:

Yes it was!

Might have to check it out

Is there a third party product out there that fixes this problem?

Unfortunately there is no after market pieces. The mod is very easy and should take you about 45 mins tops

I just read here that Jeep is going to offer a mopar one but its not confirmed yet.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/arch.../t-149443.html

That would be nice.. Same tops basically. The 09's & 10's freedom pieces latch better from what I can see.

Just finished mine - Pics!
 

Just bought a 2010 Fredom Top for my 2008 JK Wrangler 4 Door. Had the Oh Sh!t moment when I went to turn the center clip to the windshield. Found this thread and just finished this mod. Thanks so much to Enzo and Demon Hunter for coming up with and posting the "How To". I will add that I found 1/4 inch black plastic plugs with catches at Lowes that cover the old holes perfectly. They painted up nicely as well. Total Mod $15 - Touch up paint and hardware. Her are a couple of pics - Thanks again:Attachment 194984Attachment 194985Attachment 194983

Im gonna have to check out those plugs you mentioned. Glad you got all setup. :thumbsup:

Very pleased - thanks again for getting this going. I believe that the corrrect placement is one hole over to the left like you did. Especially if you are going to get the 2010 windsheild molding to avoid having to cut the existing one with the Dremel. This is based on measurements on the 2010 JK models and the molding indent on the Freedom Top. I wish I did a better job on removing the rivets. By the time I got done, the old hole was too big for the self tapping screw. So I had to move over, but stayed as close as I could to the old hole.


So if anyone is using this to do this mod. Don't forget to re-read Enzo's thread on removing the rivets. Take your time. Demon Hunter put a link to Enzo's thread in the beginning of this one.

Jeep now sells an adapter to allow 07-09's to use newer tops. It is 35$, and basically does exactly what this mod accomplishes. According to the dealer, the older tops are not even available for purchase.

Do you have a part # or a website to the link?

Yes, it is adapter 82212462. The directions refer to it as a windshield header molding. It was required to install a 2011 top on a 2008 body.

i cant seem to find a picture of this. my setup is good but i am just curious on how this mounts up.

Me too. Very happy mine, but would be curious just how they did it. Before I did mine I scoured the web and drove a local jeep dealer nuts looking for a Mopar mod for this - nada. Even brought the panel in the parts department to explain. They were very helpful, but came up empty - this was the first week of August 2011. Just checked a few websites including the Mopar site with this part number - nada still. I believe that it exists or at least it is very close - it only makes sense, but it appears it is not in the "systems" yet. Looking forward to seeing it.

Question, once you do this modification, and you still have the 2007 soft top, will the new mounting loop in the middle be compatible with the 07 softtop header? There is a large notch in the middle of the header (where the loop is located) until you move the loop to accomodate the hardtop. Would i have to notch out the soft top header as well? i can take pictures if need be.

I wanna say that loop is only meant 4 when or if u fold the windshield down or if u hang an overheadconsole. Id say go for it.

I have the mopar soft top. The center loop is not used for the soft top and you do not have to do anything extra at all after the mod for the hard top and soft top to be interchangeable.

What did you do with the old freedom panel?
 

For all of you that have done this mod. What did you do with your old panel. I am looking for one to see if I can mod the panel itself to fit the wide loop on the windsheild.

Thanks
Underdog

i just cut mine with a dremmel. and used some sandpaper 2 smooth out the ruff edges.

I did the same thing.

Wow, didnt know this was an issue, great job!

For what it's worth at this point, I just replaced the damaged hardtop on my 2008 JKU with a brand new 2012 Mopar hardtop kit (all three pieces) that I purchased from a big aftermarket dealer, and it fit perfectly with no modifications necessary. I didn't try to modify the front to make the center latch fit over the center loop, since it looked no different than the setup with my 2007 hardtop. Because I had read threads like this one, I bought a modification kit for 2007 and 2008 models (about $31), but I let the store keep it and got the cost credited back to my credit card when I saw no need for it. I figured the modification kit was for softtop to hardtop conversions.

It would be nice to move the center loop over so that the center latch could go over it and thereby further secure the roof against leaks, but as I said, the original top didn't use the center loop and I never had leak problems with it.

By the way, I now have my old hardtop set here in Houston that I would sell for $300 (enought to maybe buy a cold air intake, another issue). Only problem is that the right window was shattered and an inch wide hole was punctured in the fiberglass next to the window when my wife backed her car with a bike carrier into it (although I tell people that she took a couple of potshots at me during a fight). If you replaced the window and tape over the hole with black duct tape, she'd look as good as new!