Do not read if you are sick of hard top hoist write-ups.
After looking through the various hard top hoist examples within the forum, I put together my own version to fit the spaces I have available in my garage. I wanted a top hoist with a strap under the front of the top and a hook on the back of the top, but the winch system was going to need some creativity in my already packed garage. It had to be cheap and manual (keeping the solution cheap). It is much easier to setup a winch from the side of the vehicle compared to the rear of the vehicle due to the rear glass, but I gave it a shot.
The frame is made of three-quarter inch inner diameter Pipe, connected through a cast T and then reinforced by notched cross bars welded in place. The rear hook connects through a hole in the the frame and the straps simply hook on to the frame. I added pipe insulation for protection for most of the structure. The winch hooks to the ring in the center of the frame.


The wall winch is the Harbor Freight manual winch most people have used (~25 bucks with wire and hook). I ran the pulley system with two ‘runs’ to (A) reduce strain on the winch and (B) to allow for some easy adjustment of the center the top and the angle of the line to the winch.

Four chains hold two 2by8 planks for the top to sit on after it is hoisted off of the Jeep. The freedom tops and hardtop hardware fit on those same planks. The three ‘L’ braces are each screwed to the ceiling with six screws. The pulleys use the middle brace and the shelf hangs from the outer braces.


(Go Boilers!)
The top fits over both the hood of my Jeep and/or my wife’s expedition with plenty of room in all dimensions. The window however needed to be tethered down to not hit the pulley cable. I simply ran a line from hooks which grab on to the mounting plate of the glass hydraulics through the bottom of the window channel of the tailgate.



-Dan
The frame is made of three-quarter inch inner diameter Pipe, connected through a cast T and then reinforced by notched cross bars welded in place. The rear hook connects through a hole in the the frame and the straps simply hook on to the frame. I added pipe insulation for protection for most of the structure. The winch hooks to the ring in the center of the frame.
The wall winch is the Harbor Freight manual winch most people have used (~25 bucks with wire and hook). I ran the pulley system with two ‘runs’ to (A) reduce strain on the winch and (B) to allow for some easy adjustment of the center the top and the angle of the line to the winch.
Four chains hold two 2by8 planks for the top to sit on after it is hoisted off of the Jeep. The freedom tops and hardtop hardware fit on those same planks. The three ‘L’ braces are each screwed to the ceiling with six screws. The pulleys use the middle brace and the shelf hangs from the outer braces.
(Go Boilers!)
The top fits over both the hood of my Jeep and/or my wife’s expedition with plenty of room in all dimensions. The window however needed to be tethered down to not hit the pulley cable. I simply ran a line from hooks which grab on to the mounting plate of the glass hydraulics through the bottom of the window channel of the tailgate.
-Dan
Very nice. I used an electric winch for my setup and almost wish I would have used a hand crank now. One, I would have saved a few bucks for sure, secondly, the electric winch is probably less controlable. While lowering it goes kind of fast and if I do it a little at a time trying to ease it in place, it gets a little jerky.
I know there are tons of these write-ups on the boards, but I've got to hand it to you - this is a really good one. I like the way you've built the tee that grabs onto the top - very nice.
-Ferg
-Ferg
Very nice. I used an electric winch for my setup and almost wish I would have used a hand crank now. One, I would have saved a few bucks for sure, secondly, the electric winch is probably less controlable. While lowering it goes kind of fast and if I do it a little at a time trying to ease it in place, it gets a little jerky.







