Fuel Door Installation
JK Newbie
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Brisbane, Australia
Tips on installation
Hi,
Thanks for the write up, Mopar failed to even achieve their usual low standards with the instructions for this.
The installation went well but there are a few other things that worked for me that people doing this might find useful:
You need a narrow flat screwdriver to release the catch and unplug the back light from the back light cable loom and a small pointed object like a very small Phillips screwdriver to release the light blue strap that holds the loom plug to the backlight. Both go back easily when you are finished.
To remove the black plastic cone, I used a long flat blade screwdriver as described above to push back the inner two catches but to keep it from popping back in again, I wedged in folds of cardboard ripped from the Mopar box, in the outside gap. You need to do this in order to simultaneously pry the rubber collar past the base of the plastic cone, while removing the cone outwards.
I found that using three flat blade screwdrivers, putting the three of them side by side at three o’clock, keeping one central and working the other upwards and downwards, the outer rubber collar eventually popped past the base of the cone.
I then removed the rubber collar from the central metal fuel filler pipe and fitted to the new plastic cone, being careful to keep the ring the same way around on the new cone.
You really need to carefully look at how the new plastic cone goes onto the jeep. As the guys said above, you only have thin metal and you really need to clip the cone unto the metal carefully and line up the little plastic horn at the top of the new cone with the hole in the metal side.
Once you clip it up and line up the little horn and the hole, it all pops back in easily.
One you carefully screw on the new door, you can stand back and admire the six bright shiny silver hexheads that ruin a perfect fitting and marvel at the Muppet Show that is Mopar.
Bill
Thanks for the write up, Mopar failed to even achieve their usual low standards with the instructions for this.
The installation went well but there are a few other things that worked for me that people doing this might find useful:
You need a narrow flat screwdriver to release the catch and unplug the back light from the back light cable loom and a small pointed object like a very small Phillips screwdriver to release the light blue strap that holds the loom plug to the backlight. Both go back easily when you are finished.
To remove the black plastic cone, I used a long flat blade screwdriver as described above to push back the inner two catches but to keep it from popping back in again, I wedged in folds of cardboard ripped from the Mopar box, in the outside gap. You need to do this in order to simultaneously pry the rubber collar past the base of the plastic cone, while removing the cone outwards.
I found that using three flat blade screwdrivers, putting the three of them side by side at three o’clock, keeping one central and working the other upwards and downwards, the outer rubber collar eventually popped past the base of the cone.
I then removed the rubber collar from the central metal fuel filler pipe and fitted to the new plastic cone, being careful to keep the ring the same way around on the new cone.
You really need to carefully look at how the new plastic cone goes onto the jeep. As the guys said above, you only have thin metal and you really need to clip the cone unto the metal carefully and line up the little plastic horn at the top of the new cone with the hole in the metal side.
Once you clip it up and line up the little horn and the hole, it all pops back in easily.
One you carefully screw on the new door, you can stand back and admire the six bright shiny silver hexheads that ruin a perfect fitting and marvel at the Muppet Show that is Mopar.
Bill
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Athens GREECE
Not That Easy
Yesterday I decided to go forward with the installation of the Mopar Fuel Door. I have to agree that the directions that came with the product where crap
And although the directions I read here helped a lot I would like to add something:
It Took me more than half an hour to remove the factory part from the body. I became so frustrated of that damn thing not badging from its place due to that notorious third anchoring point which is reachable only for some strange out of this planet creature with and index finger of 2 feet or so
,to the point I wanted to kick my Jeep,
My advise is to remove the rubber seal while the factory part is actually on the body itself. This gives some air in order to remove it from the body, a bit more easily.
The rest of the process is very well depicted in the write up at the begining of this thread.
And a question to those who have gone through with the actual installation. Does the Fuel Door sits flat on the body panel all round?
Mine seems to leave a small gap on the right side of about 0,08 of an inch where as at the left side its flat on.
Your Feedback is appreciated.
PS the $hitty chrome bolts are heading towards the bin a soon as I get around of trimming to size the new all black bolts. It seems chrome really hurts my eyes!
And although the directions I read here helped a lot I would like to add something:
It Took me more than half an hour to remove the factory part from the body. I became so frustrated of that damn thing not badging from its place due to that notorious third anchoring point which is reachable only for some strange out of this planet creature with and index finger of 2 feet or so
,to the point I wanted to kick my Jeep,My advise is to remove the rubber seal while the factory part is actually on the body itself. This gives some air in order to remove it from the body, a bit more easily.
The rest of the process is very well depicted in the write up at the begining of this thread.
And a question to those who have gone through with the actual installation. Does the Fuel Door sits flat on the body panel all round?
Mine seems to leave a small gap on the right side of about 0,08 of an inch where as at the left side its flat on.
Your Feedback is appreciated.
PS the $hitty chrome bolts are heading towards the bin a soon as I get around of trimming to size the new all black bolts. It seems chrome really hurts my eyes!
Last edited by iannis; Apr 30, 2008 at 01:47 AM.
JK Newbie
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
I just installed mine and it is completely jacked. There is a gap on the top (it is on the whole way, when looking at the clip from the outside front you can see it touching the paint) and I had to drill out the holes so the screws would line up. Just bore them out alittle bit, but I freakin' paid $100, c'mon Mopar!
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
From: Spokane WA
Let me know when they are available and the cost (price plus shipping) and I'll reimburse you!
I purchased the MOPAR fuel door that came with 6 silver screws. I haven't installed it yet, but having either black or silver screws will allow me to make a decision once I install it on my silver Rubicon.
Thanks,
