The cutoff is virtually identical to the stock headlights, which makes sense since the reflectors are the same. It's probably necessary to not blind opposing traffic. The cutoff on the bottom doesn't really matter since it's relatively close to the vehicle, and if you turn on the fog lights, the lower portion gets almost completely filled in on the road.

I don't have pictures yet, but the high beams don't have the same cutoff, and light up and down a lot more.

 

High Beams. These were taken from approximately the same location as the low beam shots in the prior post.

 

Here is what the warning light canceller looks like from VVME. This unit is just plug and play between the stock wiring and the ballasts and will eliminate the flicker when the engine is running.

 

GregD, what Kelvin temp were your HIDs (3000k, 4500k, 6000k....)?

 

I went with the 4300K kit since it has the highest light output.

 

Very good write up, I've been wanting to do this to my wife's Jeep.

 

I purchased some HID's recently from sharphid.com they were reasonable at $100 and they made a huge difference on night driving.

I am looking to get new fog lamps as well, does anyone have any suggestions?

 

The warning light cancellers do not work for the relay's buzzing or the headlights flickering. The only thing that works so far is using a capacitor and diode in the relay harness coming from the headlight signal plug. I bought the warning light cancellers and put them in, but they did NOTHING. Just a heads up to anyone else doing this install. Don't waste your money on them.

 

Well that sucks, I just ordered these with my kit.

 

ok this thread is awesome and very informative, just got lost at this step what and where do you get this diod and capacitor at and how do you mount it sorry for the dumb question i guess im a noob when it comes to these things and did it come with the kit?