How to do a rattle can paint job
03-27-2009, 10:10 AM
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How to do a rattle can paint job
How to do a very decent rattle can paint job.
So I first tested my skills with the motorcycle. I wanted to do it in black to see where my shortfalls were. After producing a factory finish on the motorcycle I was convinced that painting is easier than expected.
Now to the Jeep, I went four wheeling and had bad rock rash in the rear fender all the way to the black material inside. A paintjob on such a small part would be well over $100 so I put my newly acquired skills to work. Here is the method I used to get a better then factory paint job. I will describe how I prepped and painted a surface that does not require damage repair like “bondo”.
Materials needed: Most can be bought at any auto store (Total Cost, under $30)
-300-400 grit sandpaper (Wet/Dry)
-1000 grit sandpaper (Wet/Dry)
-2000 grit sandpaper (Wet/Dry)
-Car polish (as fine a grit as possible)
-Alcohol and paper towels
-Dawn dish soap
-Terry cloth towels
-Color Paint (Rattle Can) (Buy MOPAR from dealership)
-Automotive Clear Coat (Rattle Can)
Step 1: Sand the surface using the 300-400 grit sandpaper down to a “smooth finish”. Remove any bumps and divots in the surface. They will be noticeable in the final coat. Take the time and do a thorough job at this stage. If there are not any bumps or divots still sand the surface so the paint has something to bond to.
Step 2: Clean the surface with the Dawn Dish soap, Use Dawn since it removes grease the best. Towel dry then rub the surface with a paper towel soaked in alcohol to clean the surface further. Once it is air dried you can put the first coat of color on the surface. Do a slow even coat, don’t go too thick since it will drip then you have to wait for it to dry and start over with sanding. Let it dry “to the touch” as per the cans directions (MOPAR paint says 30min). Put another thin coat and let dry. Do this for about 5-6 coats minimum, you can keep doing this until your satisfied with the coverage.
You will notice that the surface looks like an orange peel. This is normal. After you put your last coat on the paint you need to wait at least 12 hours for it to “Cure” (I like to wait 24 hours).
Step 3: Use the 1000 grit paper and WET sand the surface to remove the “Orange peel” Don’t sand too hard or you will remove the color. This step doesn’t have to be perfect, just reduce the orange peel look. Wash with dawn dish soap then alcohol then let dry. Put 2 more coats of color (Don’t worry if it is not shiny) and let cure for 12-24 hours.
Step 4: Wash with alcohol and let dry. Use the clear coat rattle can and put the first coat then let dry “to the touch” per the cans directions (Usually 30min). Do this with min 5-6 coats. The more you put on the “deeper” your paintjob will look. When done let it “Cure” for 12-24 hours. The surface will be a dull looking paintjob, but we are not done.
Step 5: Wet Sand the surface down with the 1000 grit paper to reduce the “orange peel” look of the clear coat. Use the 2000 grit wet sandpaper to smooth out the remaining orange peel look and make the surface smooth to the touch. Don’t go too deep with the sandpaper or you will rub through the clear coat. Use the polish and a terry cloth to make the surface shiny and gleaming. Wash and wax the surface and your done!
The paintjob will look better then factory and it is very easy to do. Not to mention inexpensive. Your looking at ~3 days (including curing time) and under $30 for a great paint job.
So I first tested my skills with the motorcycle. I wanted to do it in black to see where my shortfalls were. After producing a factory finish on the motorcycle I was convinced that painting is easier than expected.
Now to the Jeep, I went four wheeling and had bad rock rash in the rear fender all the way to the black material inside. A paintjob on such a small part would be well over $100 so I put my newly acquired skills to work. Here is the method I used to get a better then factory paint job. I will describe how I prepped and painted a surface that does not require damage repair like “bondo”.
Materials needed: Most can be bought at any auto store (Total Cost, under $30)
-300-400 grit sandpaper (Wet/Dry)
-1000 grit sandpaper (Wet/Dry)
-2000 grit sandpaper (Wet/Dry)
-Car polish (as fine a grit as possible)
-Alcohol and paper towels
-Dawn dish soap
-Terry cloth towels
-Color Paint (Rattle Can) (Buy MOPAR from dealership)
-Automotive Clear Coat (Rattle Can)
Step 1: Sand the surface using the 300-400 grit sandpaper down to a “smooth finish”. Remove any bumps and divots in the surface. They will be noticeable in the final coat. Take the time and do a thorough job at this stage. If there are not any bumps or divots still sand the surface so the paint has something to bond to.
Step 2: Clean the surface with the Dawn Dish soap, Use Dawn since it removes grease the best. Towel dry then rub the surface with a paper towel soaked in alcohol to clean the surface further. Once it is air dried you can put the first coat of color on the surface. Do a slow even coat, don’t go too thick since it will drip then you have to wait for it to dry and start over with sanding. Let it dry “to the touch” as per the cans directions (MOPAR paint says 30min). Put another thin coat and let dry. Do this for about 5-6 coats minimum, you can keep doing this until your satisfied with the coverage.
You will notice that the surface looks like an orange peel. This is normal. After you put your last coat on the paint you need to wait at least 12 hours for it to “Cure” (I like to wait 24 hours).
Step 3: Use the 1000 grit paper and WET sand the surface to remove the “Orange peel” Don’t sand too hard or you will remove the color. This step doesn’t have to be perfect, just reduce the orange peel look. Wash with dawn dish soap then alcohol then let dry. Put 2 more coats of color (Don’t worry if it is not shiny) and let cure for 12-24 hours.
Step 4: Wash with alcohol and let dry. Use the clear coat rattle can and put the first coat then let dry “to the touch” per the cans directions (Usually 30min). Do this with min 5-6 coats. The more you put on the “deeper” your paintjob will look. When done let it “Cure” for 12-24 hours. The surface will be a dull looking paintjob, but we are not done.
Step 5: Wet Sand the surface down with the 1000 grit paper to reduce the “orange peel” look of the clear coat. Use the 2000 grit wet sandpaper to smooth out the remaining orange peel look and make the surface smooth to the touch. Don’t go too deep with the sandpaper or you will rub through the clear coat. Use the polish and a terry cloth to make the surface shiny and gleaming. Wash and wax the surface and your done!
The paintjob will look better then factory and it is very easy to do. Not to mention inexpensive. Your looking at ~3 days (including curing time) and under $30 for a great paint job.
03-27-2009, 02:40 PM
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I can't provide pics for the OP, but I do have some shots of fantastic rattle-can paint jobs two friends of mine did on their bikes.
The red job is on Gazza'a Evo Sportster
The Orange job was done by Hollie on her IronHead
The red job is on Gazza'a Evo Sportster
The Orange job was done by Hollie on her IronHead
03-28-2009, 04:40 AM
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I took both of those at our annual bash. It was in Ohio last year and the weather jumped between 100 degrees and Torrential downpour... but we weren't going to let a little rain get us down! 
Hopefully this year the weather will be more cooperative... we'll be in Texas!
Hopefully this year the weather will be more cooperative... we'll be in Texas!
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03-28-2009, 05:29 AM
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very nice!
*Actually to do the "water droplet" effect, mist the surface until you do get drops, spray paint the area to be covered on the last base coat, then use a heat gun or hairdryer (basically bake) to evaporate the water...
*Actually to do the "water droplet" effect, mist the surface until you do get drops, spray paint the area to be covered on the last base coat, then use a heat gun or hairdryer (basically bake) to evaporate the water...
