How to install a body lift
Nice write up. Also, Performance Accessories, the worlds leading manufacturer of body lifts, is giving away some product from their sister company, OR-Fab, and anyone who has a body lift is eligible to enter. Check out the thread. Only a few days left to enter....https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/spon...bumper-249767/
i would strongly recommend using some wood (2x4 or 4x4) to lift the entire side of the body from the frame to prevent bending/twisting the body. good write up and great looking jeep!
The write up is great, thanks for taking the time to create it for guidance.
I just ordered the performance 2" body lift for my 012 JKU (automatic). The plan was to install it to get a little extra clearance needed for the forward area where the rear tires could hit the factory body mold. I'm currently rolling on 37x12x17 factory wheels with 1 3/4 spacers. I don't want to change the wheels to get the clearance, so I looking into the body lift. My lift is a 4-5 super flex skyjacker.
Question: Does anyone for see any problems with the 2" causing parts to bind or rub or no longer reach properly-changing geometry? Example steering, brake lines, cables and shifter.
Thanks
I just ordered the performance 2" body lift for my 012 JKU (automatic). The plan was to install it to get a little extra clearance needed for the forward area where the rear tires could hit the factory body mold. I'm currently rolling on 37x12x17 factory wheels with 1 3/4 spacers. I don't want to change the wheels to get the clearance, so I looking into the body lift. My lift is a 4-5 super flex skyjacker.
Question: Does anyone for see any problems with the 2" causing parts to bind or rub or no longer reach properly-changing geometry? Example steering, brake lines, cables and shifter.
Thanks
Sorry to resurrect this one guys, but i haven't been able to find a straight answer on any of the forums.
I already have a 2.5" suspension lift on my rig, and I've got a 1.25" RC BL ready to go (with a manual shit adapter). Will I need to relocate / deal with anything like brake lines, other hoses, etc. since the rig is already lifted 2.5"?
Is it still just a simple install of the BL (and shift adapter), and that's it? Thanks in advance!
I already have a 2.5" suspension lift on my rig, and I've got a 1.25" RC BL ready to go (with a manual shit adapter). Will I need to relocate / deal with anything like brake lines, other hoses, etc. since the rig is already lifted 2.5"?
Is it still just a simple install of the BL (and shift adapter), and that's it? Thanks in advance!
Sorry to resurrect this one guys, but i haven't been able to find a straight answer on any of the forums.
I already have a 2.5" suspension lift on my rig, and I've got a 1.25" RC BL ready to go (with a manual shit adapter). Will I need to relocate / deal with anything like brake lines, other hoses, etc. since the rig is already lifted 2.5"?
Is it still just a simple install of the BL (and shift adapter), and that's it? Thanks in advance!
I already have a 2.5" suspension lift on my rig, and I've got a 1.25" RC BL ready to go (with a manual shit adapter). Will I need to relocate / deal with anything like brake lines, other hoses, etc. since the rig is already lifted 2.5"?
Is it still just a simple install of the BL (and shift adapter), and that's it? Thanks in advance!
One thing to remember, loosen one side completely. Remove all of the bolts on the opposite side and when installing the spacers, start with the front. If you start with the other body bolts and put the in loose, you will not be able to get the front spacer in. Start with the front and work your way to the back.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Good write up. Your rig looks awesome.
Pounding 10 bolts out of the washers can get old real fast and slow things down.
A really fast way to get them off is to stick the bolt into the chuck of your drill press or Drill
and put a metal file to the lip. ZIP! It takes the lip off REAL fast.
Rear bumper relocation. With out using the brackets that some kits offer(RC?) you can use your
factory mounts and raise the bumper up. Once you remove the bumper bracket bolts that connect
the bumper to the frame, lift the bumper up and bolt the bottom of the bracket to the top hole.
Then with the bumper in place, mark the top hole on frame to drill out and thread.
A lot of people mention the M.O.R.E. Kit and like it. Here are two things to think about with that kit.
1st, it's aluminum pucks, Aluminum touching steel causes corrosion.
When dissimilar metals are in contact with one another in the presence of an electrolyte, galvanic action occurs,
resulting in the deterioration of the metal with the lower galvanic number. The electrolyte may be rain water running
from one surface to another, road salt and snow, or moisture from the air containing enough acid to cause it to act as an electrolyte.
Just like your door hinges. That's why they are all rusting from the inside out. I don't know about you but the frame and
body mounts are two major parts of my rig I don't want rusting and corroding.
Think about how little rust would be needed to weaken that area. They are all getting doused
with mud and water constantly.
2nd, they are Aluminum. Highly noticeable. I guess a can of spray paint every now and then
could do the trick.
I'm not bashing the kit. Just pointing out some things to think about. I don't own the kit
nor know anyone personally to get a first hand look at what's happening to it. And even if they
did the corrosion wouldn't be visible with out removing the pucks.
Pounding 10 bolts out of the washers can get old real fast and slow things down.
A really fast way to get them off is to stick the bolt into the chuck of your drill press or Drill
and put a metal file to the lip. ZIP! It takes the lip off REAL fast.
Rear bumper relocation. With out using the brackets that some kits offer(RC?) you can use your
factory mounts and raise the bumper up. Once you remove the bumper bracket bolts that connect
the bumper to the frame, lift the bumper up and bolt the bottom of the bracket to the top hole.
Then with the bumper in place, mark the top hole on frame to drill out and thread.
A lot of people mention the M.O.R.E. Kit and like it. Here are two things to think about with that kit.
1st, it's aluminum pucks, Aluminum touching steel causes corrosion.
When dissimilar metals are in contact with one another in the presence of an electrolyte, galvanic action occurs,
resulting in the deterioration of the metal with the lower galvanic number. The electrolyte may be rain water running
from one surface to another, road salt and snow, or moisture from the air containing enough acid to cause it to act as an electrolyte.
Just like your door hinges. That's why they are all rusting from the inside out. I don't know about you but the frame and
body mounts are two major parts of my rig I don't want rusting and corroding.
Think about how little rust would be needed to weaken that area. They are all getting doused
with mud and water constantly.
2nd, they are Aluminum. Highly noticeable. I guess a can of spray paint every now and then
could do the trick.
I'm not bashing the kit. Just pointing out some things to think about. I don't own the kit
nor know anyone personally to get a first hand look at what's happening to it. And even if they
did the corrosion wouldn't be visible with out removing the pucks.


