Awesome!

 

I'm not really wild about having my brake system acting as the clutch resevoir ; what could possibly go wrong with this. Not really a Question.
Is there a way to retrofit a separate clutch resevoir , has anyone done this ?

 

I was thinking the same thing. I thought about swapping them out for one from my old xj. Independent from the brake booster but I don't know if it would work. Closing off the brake booster line wouldn't be to hard.

 

That is an interesting question. I wouldn't worry too much about a single one of the three systems (brakes are split in two) causing catastrophic failure of the others. They should survive on remnant fluid in their lines at least long enough to get to a repair site. I can also envision some simple internal design elements for the bowl to provide limited isolation for each system--stepped interior taps so the clutch drainage stops above the brake line taps; small, internal bowls at each tap that retain a small amount of fluid, etc. Next time I'm mucking around in there I'll take a peak. Unless Ronjenx chimes in. He knows all that stuff.

 

I found this thread looking for info on how to bleed the slave cylinder.

I replaced my clutch master cylinder (CMC) this weekend because of the annoying squeaking. The first recommendation I would make is to release the two wiring harnesses that are in the way. They simply pull off the bolts that secure them with a slight tug. Then remove the grounding screw shown in photos two and six. I did not have to remove or loosen the brake booster. The part slid and out just fine (looking at the CMC from the front…removal is slight twist clockwise and to reinstall slight twist counterclockwise). I did not have to remove it from the inside. The one problem I did have was when I was reinstalling the new CMC, I knocked the sensor off the side. I had to hot glue it back on and I wrapped painters tape around it so it wouldn’t happen again. Otherwise this was very straight forward.

I tried bleeding the part from the slave and just gave up. If anyone has any suggestions…please post.

 

this is great, do you have a how-to for the slave cylinder as well?

 

I'm so glad you pointed this out. The bolts on the interior arnt aligned with the holes so it makes it impossible to get a socket on them. I even tried removing the whole plate it's attached to only to find out if have to remove the interior nuts as well. I eventually gave up so I could do more research and here it is. Thanks for this.

 

Ok, so I changed the Slave and master cylinders, bled the breaks and clutch. There is no air in the lines on anything, the clutch is still looser than it used to be before it went out. Any ideas as to why, or is the clutch supposed to be fairly soft?

 

The stock clutch is fairly soft. Going to an aftermarket one will put some spring in your step.

 

Great topic for today's How-To Spotlight...
Jeep Wrangler JK 2007 to 2015 How to Replace Clutch Master Cylinder - Jk-Forum