Dude, this is just the beginning! I have wound up buying 5 trailers so far from govliquidation. It's addicting. Fortunately in my area the 101s are half of what you paid and the 105s are even less!! Just got an M1101 too. It is a much newer aluminum body trailer. Will never give that thing up. But those aren't cheap.

Wiring: can't help with the brakes cause my 101 has surge brakes so they work on braking force, not electrical signal. But the lights are easy. If yours is like mine, disconnect the wiring harness a few feet back from the main plug. There is probably a metal box that has a junction where all the wires are seperate out of the main harness and there are plugs there, then the wires continue throughout the trailer. I unplugged the harness & discarded it then spliced a flat 4 into the wiring from there. Let me know if yours sounds like this cause the wires have little metal bands on them with codes that correlate to what they are (left blinker, brakes etc). Think I still have my notes on what they are. Next (or probably before you do the new wiring plug so you can test it) remove the rear light covers and pull the big and small bulbs out. Then just go to Auto Zone or something and get the same size 12 volt bulbs and simply swap them out for the 24 volt in the sockets. Dunno anything about the LEDs in there. Mine was simple as that.

Guess you got a receiver pintle already but if not, I got a 2 piece hitch that has a receiver with a plate with multiple mount holes and a pintle that mounts to it for up & down adjustability. Both pieces ran under $100 at a local utility trailer store.

Another suggestion, be ready, people are so curious about these when you drive up at Home Depot. Everyone has questions.

M1101


M101 & M105


M101

 

Oh, and ditto steelsoldiers.com. Very valuable resource.

 

those are some great looking trailers. could only dream of having maybe 1 some day.

 

[QUOTE="thelouv"]Dude, this is just the beginning! I have wound up buying 5 trailers so far from govliquidation. It's addicting. Fortunately in my area the 101s are half of what you paid and the 105s are even less!! Just got an M1101 too. It is a much newer aluminum body trailer. Will never give that thing up. But those aren't cheap.

Wiring: can't help with the brakes cause my 101 has surge brakes so they work on braking force, not electrical signal. But the lights are easy. If yours is like mine, disconnect the wiring harness a few feet back from the main plug. There is probably a metal box that has a junction where all the wires are seperate out of the main harness and there are plugs there, then the wires continue throughout the trailer. I unplugged the harness & discarded it then ........[QUOTE="thelouv"]

Awesome man you're trailers look great! Good inspiration! How did that 105 on the left tow behind ur jk???? I'm planning in getting to work in the trailer on sat and sun and going to try the wiring and lights suggestions you made. I saw the 2 peice hitch you talked about and considered it. I may still go back and get it. My pintle hitch was $89 and the one you got was about $80 each peice. I didn't think the trailer was as talk as it is, I may end up getting that 2 peice and putting it on the highest setting to get it to sit level. I was a little concerned that a 2 peice Would just add more weak points to fail or come loose with the pintle plate bolting to the receiver, then the hitch.
I just took off my trektop and am thinking ill put it back on and make a canvas cover on the trailer that slants back to match it too. Would look pretty cool. Once again, awesome job on ur trailer


Ill check out that steelsoldiers too thank you!

 

Interesting, I will look into this. Seems like a better route, depending on cost and available axles

 

The Jk did not like the 105. heck, my 3/4 ton Chevy isn't too fond of it either. Wound up doing some trading around and now a friend of mine has the 105 to use behind his Ford F550. Found a good home there.
If you get the 2 piece pintle, I don't think you will ever have enough weight in the trailer to overwhelm the capacity of the hitch. It would be too much for the JK before the capacity of the hitch. Unfortunately, you can only go so high with the hitch. A pintle as you know opens up and is therefore limited by your spare tire. Have mine as high as possible with it opening up and notching between lugs on the spare for enough clearance to set the trailer in the hook.

 

Update: got a little time on Saturday to pressure wash the trailer, sand and prime. I painted the entire underneath with black rustoleum and the exterior sides and frame with it as well. Couldn't stop there and I was on a run so I got the herculiner Bedliner kit and did the interior bed. Standing back after and looking at the trailer, I was glad it was all black but the textures varied from different paints over the years and just some minor waves on the siding with the black paint. So I ended up bed lining the whole damn exterior of the trailer as well. Lookin pretty tough at this point but could still probably use one more coat of Bedliner to make me happy.
Finished in about 4 hours and came inside to a 8 mo pregnant wife that was not happy at all. I guess I told her it would only take me an hour...
Next step- wiring and lights, another coat of Bedliner, getting it plated at DMV

Question for those of you with the pintle hitch. Can I flip the lunette ring bolt so that it will lift the tongue and level out the trailer a bit? ( Lunette bolt angles down to tongue instead of up?) last pic of lunettes explains

 

Accidental double post

 

Yes, flip the lunette and it will raise the trailer a good 4 inches or so. I did the very same thing with mine. I took mine to the tire shop sown the street since I didn't have a socket big enough. The nut was like a 40mm! They didn't even charge me so I just tipped the guy who busted it loose and flipped it.

 

I agree with some of the other posts; dont cut the trailer wire spend the extra cash to replace it, its the most heavy duty spool you will find and the only way you should get rid of the pintle hitch is if you are going to switch it over to a max coupler hitch that is silent due to the poly pushing in the joint.